ash_scotland88

Oh dear. Like when someone asks for a lift to carry something; "You're doing a great job, keep it up! Your hair looks good today!" To respond to your earlier comment, needs to be black as the rest of the gate furniture is also black.

Looks like a building warrant may not be required for up here: https://www.clacks.gov.uk/document/2106.pdf Not my local authority area but found others stating the same, domestic handbook also states a building warrant should not be required but does not necessary state about exterior installations. I thought it was circa600mm deep but hoping as it was an obvious route due to path lighting then there might be a clause stating otherwise.

yes, to the point the spring then deformed. Got it to the point I really struggled to wind it up more.

Electrical is 1989 we recon, found a sticker somewhere that suggests that. Black and red PVC. Rewritable fusebox (plan to upgrade) but looks neat as anything behind and spark we had out for a check was impressed by the quality of install in the box. Currently drawing a blank regarding earthing method. If I was just shortening the length of a conduit would that change what you're suggesting.

Competent to complete the physical work but not 100% sure on regs and admittedly a tad lazy to try and find the parts I need... 1a) bedrooms have the lights Infront of windows/over dressing table. Want to centre them to room. As far as I can tell all wiring is in metal conduit. Can I just cut and file the conduit in place I want? Or do I need a junction box, tap and die set for creating thread etc? b) if I want add extra lights do I need to add in conduit? The bedrooms should be easy as I can access from above but ground floor rooms will be harder (eg dinning room needs to move a 1m or so in line) C) Do adding in extra or moving sockets also require conduit in walls 2) Following on my garden lighting thread what's the standard for running power for lighting outside? My plan is to use a junction box that's already there with a flood, tack along and down a wall then reaching ground level. Plan is to use armoured but how deep do I have to go? Some places I may be able tack along a small wall, but I don't think the longest run I'm able to. I maybe could but it will be tacked about an inch or two above ground. Cheers

Anybody care to offer advice? Bought a rubbish one from B&Q, but it's going back. It didn't close the gate- before i was able to break it. Some reasons popping into my head a) too small b) wrong angle c) the gate isn't flush with the wall, the gate is stepped out maybe 5mm max. I think option a is the most likely but is there other reasons why it may not have closed? It didn't even want to move at all under it's own device.

Is that from experience? Also had no idea what length I should have bought when I got it .

That's what I'm thinking. Not fitted it yet but also have a spring closer to fit. Wondering if that might create enough resistance.

Not sure on correct terminology. The part of the latch that moves in and out and causes the latching...can that be bought either extra long or flat edge then round? Fitted new gate but because of the ironmongery (between two walls, wrought iron components reused) the gate can swing 2inch or so beyond the latched position. It then swings back into the latched position and doesn't open. It's that or try and create a stop of some sort to stop it moving beyond close.

That is probably the best way but by no means practical. Down pipe and drain is inside the garage, 3ides are built into a hill and would struggle there. Front is straight onto pavement and doubt the council would appreciate it.

The downpipe cover was acting as a damn itself, I've now raised that up so atleast some water can get away. https://ibb.co/5F30JST https://ibb.co/tbmZtxt https://ibb.co/vQcD6s9 https://ibb.co/CPmnMNp Can hopefully see the raised part before the downpipe, as a note a wet roof shows off all the imperfections.

That's gone up in 2-3 years. Appealed on the decision of refusal for an extension and it was an other 8-12weeks.

Garage roof is leaking. It's flat felt roof with a box gutter with an internal down pipe and WW pipe runs down the internal wall of the garage. For whatever reason the gutter is raised around the downpipe meaning the water sits in the gutter and presumable saturates the felt which is causing a leak. Is there a DIY solution or am I better getting in a roofing expert? Quick exploratory on the roof wasn't aware what has caused the raised part, if it's something underneath or sinking of the rest of it.

Slight update on this. General builder round getting some quotes and he said it's due to a lack of a sill/ inappropriate sill. He said the water runs down the cavity and gets stopped by the bricks which then causes the rust and "blow out." I get what he's saying but also all the windows are the same style of sill. And this one (and maybe another one with some blown render but could be aerial and cable clips pulled it off) have the issue. It could have been installed wrong almost 90 years a go I appreciate that. His solution is cast in place concrete sill, which I am reluctant to have as suddenly there's one window with an over hang modern style sill. Anyone else have any ideas? No sign of damp in out, no sign of rotten floor boards.

Good point, would need to check that. The storm doors are only ever open when someone is in the house and awake. West Fife so not too far away. Also currently exploring double glazing, if you know of anyone in the region? Had two quotes already, supply only £12k and supply and fit at £28.5k after discount. The ones I've seen, admittedly online, all look a tad naff with narrow glazing bars.

Photos of current set up:

Here's the current door. Would be re-using the handles but new Yale and no mortice.

Are you meaning these? https://www.screwfix.com/p/hardware-solutions-gate-latch-galvanised-155mm/887GT?tc=XB3&ds_kid=92700058173290222&ds_rl=1244072&gclid=Cj0KCQjwp86EBhD7ARIsAFkgakiV8O4lzzEvbpZ98ASwtIySoiGcHuSKCp_OqrxfrHNzXTlEXmMjPlgaAkMtEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds What I am referring to is what is typically goes in internal doors: https://www.screwfix.com/c/security-ironmongery/door-latches/cat840414 I may be best to take a photo of what's there to better explain my predicament.

On the many list of things to do is replace the front (and only) gate. Going like for like which is a 6ft high wooden gate that fits between the stone walls, Currently it's a surface mounted latch (not a lift up gate latch). Found the LOCINOX LCPX Surface Mounted Gate as an exterior option but do latches need to be special exterior grade? What stops me from buying the cheapest from screwfix? Or this time installing an tubular latch? (my Google-fu is being weak) We don't need it to be locking but it appears most are. It does need to become dog proof so thinking of installing a closing spring.

So had an other visit today from an engineer/surveyor/installer and he's been the only one that's backed up what a lot of you said that a combi running two shower's wont give the "wow this is a good shower" response. But also agrees with us that one downstairs running off the combi downstairs which will hardly be used it will not matter.

Having looked online they are not the prettiest of things, the examples I found. It could be an option but one for definitely visiting showrooms.

True.... Looks very similar to this: https://www.leaderdoors.co.uk/doors-c14/external-doors-c18/hardwood-external-doors-c106/external-hardwood-unfinished-m-t-sa77-15l-clear-glass-door-mtsaxcgdg-p55688/s165767?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=lpd-doors-external-hardwood-unfinished-m-amp-t-sa77-15l-clear-glass-do-external-standard-door-size-1981x762x44mm-78x30-sku-165767&utm_campaign=product%2Blisting%2Bads&cid=GBP&gclid=Cj0KCQjw4cOEBhDMARIsAA3XDRgoF5045ArYrFA_fbhQn_GRnkJ8B71NEqjRP7rkJDmb-96bClr7FBUaArJIEALw_wcB The existing has a circular flat spot where the yale lock is, but that does not matter.

Looking for a 15 panel double glazed door unit to replace the single glazed one that's there. I can only find one seller/manufacturer online. Our house has storm doors (not that draft proof themselves) and if these are kept closed it's very dark in the hall. I'm hoping by choosing an exterior door it will offer a greater protection than what's currently there for keeping heat in. The frame has a metal perimeter seal currently on it, it's a couple of "fins" running the length that compresses when the door closes. The plan is to also change this to a rubber seal of some description to offer a better fitment if anyone has any suggestions. The back door could also benefit with replacement of the same method but it's a more traditional top third 9 pane (i think) door.

We've been having quotes for a central heating install, large 206m2 1930s home. Cavity walls filled (we believe from what looks like patched holes and finding polystyrene balls in the garden, floating on top of drawns etc) and currently only some secondary glazing. Mentioned ASHP to one heating engineer who "specialise" in this area too, his response was as expected. It would be costly to install, possible requiring two of the larger sized units and even then insulation and glazing would need to be improved before hand. I've read on an other forum of one person who stripped their victorian house back to brick essentially and fully insulated it, combined bills before hand was £2.5k+ pa and afterwards are less than £1k.