ash_scotland88

That reminds me trying to explain to someone how electricity can't see colour and the colour scheme is a human standard....but how does it know neutral is blue?

Cheers, that solves the inner core colour issue as can only get them one way (to my knowledge).... Now to decide what lights ?

Thanks again. Last wee uncertainty. 3core or 4core... Hopefully lights will run off Hue*, but if they can't then some sort of sensor will be installed, so was originally thinking 4core forgetting the armour doubles as earthing. Knowing the steel gets armoured can I get away with 3core? If so what colour variant, Thinking maybe brown, black grey and can always PVC tape over the "wrong" colours incase need to use a core as a switched live. *did test the distance but still not 100% confident in their ability.

Cheers @Nickfromwales think it was stuffing gland I havent heard that phrase before and piranha nuts. I think it's just apprehension as I haven't done SWA before. But then 6weeks ago I haven't previously taken apart and reassembled parts of a generator.

I think I need to translate the latter half once the Sunday wine clears.... Much appreciate the link. Reluctant to pay a spark when I have the skills but currently lacking the knowledge.

I'm sure this debate was had recently and in Scotland it's different, but could be remembering differently. I know for CU upgrade we're not having to get building regs involved, I can't imagine they'll be that fussy they'll want outdoor lights done.

Went to finally order cable (and parts) but thought I would do some reading up first. Lights will be wired into 6amp RCD. Looking at ordering 2.5mm (closer to 65m) SWA armour and use the armour as earthing as best practice. What junction boxes and other components are best? This is where I am a bit of a loss.

Ah yeah. Had me in a tiny panic that I totally missed something. But yeah, slack for allowing having to move the light (can't think of an example, wall rebuild?) is a given.

Do you mean run it back like a ring or beyond last fixture? My plan was like a radial circuit. Last fixture is where the cable ends.

Looks good, I'd probably get moaned at for proposing something with their price points.

cheers, looks smart. I do wonder the construction method of the bathroom at that point, if its maybe a bit of a stud wall and pipes could be routed through the wall, but thats me just thinking out loud.

cheers, any reconmendations for a supplier? Planning 4 core as if hue isn't stable enough can chuck in some sort of sensor.

I'm glad I'm not the only one. Any chance of a pic? I was thinking possibly of designing/building our own. One thought was to find a sink unit we liked with minimal legs and then box along the back wall of the unit, so it looks standing from the front. WC and sink will probably be butted up against each other so may work?

What have people done for this? When we come to do the bathroom I want to swap WC and sink around, old brick walls makes it a costly option to change where they come in through the wall. I hate the shin high boxed in look. There's loads of combined vanity units, but i think the majority on offer are naff looking. It could be small height stud wall idea, but this may look odd to have sticking out in the middle of the wall. Although currently favouring this one but depends on how it is detailed how it may match in with the idea to tile up to a height etc.

Still not done, other mini projects have got in the way etc. For 50-60m what size cable thickness? If it was temp wise with HO7 I'd went for 2.5mm, but is 1.5mm sufficient here? It's only for 6 lights.

Smallest of updates. Got an ex colleague/friend coming round to do it, upgrade and test. Also learnt that each circuit doesn't need to be individually protected- somehow that's what I interpreted 18th edition to do. If it was me doing the work I would install a box myself (using the cheap fusebox brand) but don't want to tell him how to do his job or get moaned at why I'm purposely increasing costs.

They quoted as private pay. The way the scheme works, I believe, is that the fund flow through the individual. And they (agency) just required a quote from a business. It's an interest free loan, not free money for an individual to claim for, so I'd imagine they won't be jacking up prices anyway.

Rafters are only 150mm. Can't remember figures off my head but it started as trying to achieve 270mm to be eligible for the home energy Scotland boiler loan. May also add some under floor insulation at some point too.

Had a costs to install PIR through which is fractionally cheaper than spray foam at 3450. 2/3rds is the board costs looking at an online calculator. It is something we could do, at our leasure, but our leasure time feels like it's greatly decreasing before end of August/September onset of autumn deadline.

It could be borderline for a metre. I've not seen under the flooring for this sink but going to presume the sink waste falls vertically for about a metre then "90" angle that then enters the drain outside with a lift away cover. The pipe that enters this drain is maybe 30cm max below ground level and can easily be seen. When you say you need to see it what do you need to see/know? I remember from a previous thread of mine some thought my downstairs toilet was siphonic. I'm sure we came to the conclusion it wasn't. If going by the name is any link. Edit: Done some quick reading. This is in place of an "open top" waste pipe, correct? If so I will need to take a wander around the outside tomorrow and have a look. I know the upstairs toilet has been replaced with a more modern unit and I sometimes feel the smells can linger longer or travel more than in our old (newer) house. But this may also be due to lack of ventilation (eg trickle vent or fan)

On all the old sinks we have, what I am presuming, external ventilation through the wall. It looks like the waste pipe extends above the bottle trap before exiting horizontally through the wall. My questions, Is this still required for modern waste? What was the purpose, house is 1936, is it just a smell ventilation method? https://ibb.co/27q6k1P https://ibb.co/487MQP8

There was a grand design that had a link chain down pipe, may even have also featured in building the dream too. I thought it was quite smart looking, no idea how it may age though.

I have totally ruled out spray foam. Had a few companies out today, last one was a general builder who is quoting for insulation between rafters. The attic, and I've actually made a thread before, is a walk up; a door and stairs. It's also floored with original (1930s) tongue and groove flooring, so pretty tough to remove. The other thought I had was blow in insulation between the joists. There's a gap around the edge where the tube may hopefully fit through and if we have to we'll remove a row or two to allow better fill. Either way, without totally change of the attic we can't get the recommended 270mm in one layer.

That's the same article I've seen. It's hard to find positive articles that are not posted by spray foam suppliers.

Roof is pitched with a flat central area that is covered in rubber. Been doing some reading and we're clay tiles which is not ideal either.