ash_scotland88

Don't worry not looking to pebbledash the ground. Old 1930s property, at the back theres pebbledash not particularly neat or tidy on the ground against the wall. Curiousity got the better of me and i decided to lift a section only to discover what could be described as builders rubble etc underneath and it was a good 10cm or so thick. I always thought maybe the house was re-rendered and it was a messy decades old mess never been cleaned. Any vaguest ideas why this may have been done? I thought maybe something to do with damp and water run off or protection but the DPM is viewable elsewhere around the house. It's doesn't go higher than the vents to the crawl space. It's cracked from age and the odd bit missing and no obvious signs of damp internally. We're stumped why it's like that.

Might borrow hand drilling bits from work. If the old is that rusted in place then I suppose it doesn't need to be M10 to go in, although an m8 bolt head was maybe a tad small for the cover plate.

I was just coming to update this, as it's one of those jobs that's low down on the list. Had a go today, and was able to break an extractor, along with smoothing off the grippy bits* on the chuck on my drill. But I think it will be tapping out a new thread. Bolts that are stuck are M10. *If any one knows the name I'll take the lesson. Drill is probably due a new chuck anyway as it used to get abused a lot in work. Also any tips for drilling a new hole? Usual small start, then a mid size or small pilot and straight to M10? Need a bit suitable for cast iron, or what I'm presuming is cast iron.

I like it, typical traditional appearance to the front, more contemporary to the rear. The only thing I would want to change, for me and after all it's a house not for me, would be access to study/music not off the main living area for noise. If it's an office it would be distracting if the wife has the girls over for a drunken Tuesday brunch. Or if you're trying to teach yourself three blind mice on the piano come an evening and the wife just wants to sit curled up with a book. You could combine plant, boot and utility to allow a small hallway here with a door in to the space here. It then becomes a totally private space and if really needed an other bedroom.

If anyone is curious got it to work with new/correct seals. I do the toilet paper test (wrap it around a seal) and after an hour it is a bit damp/wrinkled though, so maybe the tiniest bit getting through. The handle sits proud, ie there's no chrome surround but maybe in the future replace that part. But in the mean time it appears we have a downstair bog again

My first thought is because that what was there doesn't mean it had to go back if it doesn't suit your needs. Now I'm being nosey but what was the house first built for? Is the rear in the photo an extension, do you know? Cause if not I'd say that door isn't into a kitchen as it isn't far back enough. And if no then what was it used for?

https://ibb.co/SJNrSZ0 Ive done a resize of it, don't know if it's enough or not enough. As you can see there's a bit missing out the back as well as in the front. It also started off a lot cleaner too before someone comments 😛 The old seal (pictured) did have plumbers tape wrapped around it so maybe that never fitted properly without that bodge?

I think I'm getting a good enough one there. Although after giving up gave the area a good clean! Any idea what black oil type would be in a cistern? What I can't get a good seal on is the water flush pipe. Sorry no idea what it's called but it's the pipe that comes from the cistern of a low level cistern. The flush valve sits over the flush pipe with a further larhe metal nut to hold it up. What I think the issue may be is this pipe has some rusted off chips at the top edge so there may be a small hole not created a good seal.

So it fits overs and would work in theory, I just can't get a good seal, trying new seals tomorrow but beyond that I think it's new toilet time.

I have found this; https://www.vivasanitary.co.uk/products/toilet-flush-valves/skylo-button-handle-dual-flush-valve.aspx https://www.toolstation.com/viva-skylo-lever-or-push-button-dual-flush-valve/p58085 We have the 20mm handle hole. Only concern is the internal diameter won't fit over the outlet pipe. Any thoughts? yes I've not done anything for almost 2weeks....

He who must be obeyed would like me to see if I can renew it. Any suggestions for parts? Seal/washer for inside the cistern? o-ring for the piper/thread? I'll order a new seal that I previously had, unless an other one will be suggested.

Thanks, any idea how the button gets mounted? We'd like to keep the toilet as it's a nice piece of history, along with the original shanks sink. Yeah only did the seal, held fine for a week or so then started trickling then my tinkering I recon I miss-shaped it the rubber causing it a steady stream. And yesterday thought f-this, if it's going to be this much work to maintain may as well replace for standard not realising it wasn't standard 🙈

Taken the old flush valve off today and at a loss what to do next. It sat over the pipe to the pan and is 2inch, the hole in the cistern is 2inch and I'm really struggling to find a 2inch flush valve that's not from America. It needs to work with a handle, b&q had one but I think it's from top mounted buttons. Any ideas or suggestions?

If you strongly agree your right phone up your local building warrant team and tell them. I think it's been over simplified guidance notes and poor use of grammar (pot kettle I know) https://www.mygov.scot/add-extension-house Single-storey extensions If your extension will have one storey, you don't need planning permission as long as: it's located at the back of the house it doesn't go back further than 3 metres if it's a terraced house, or 4 metres if it isn't

Any body repaired a shanks beta valve? I know there's the vintage plumber on Facebook but reached out to him and not heard back. I replaced the original seal as we had a constant trickle. This was with a wirquin seal found online as a suggestion. This lasted for a couple of weeks untill the trickle came back and became worse. I tried resetting, cleaning more of the old rubber off etc and just can't get it to seal, it's worse now! ☹️ Anybody have any suggestions? I could try and another new wirquin seal incase the one and off has stretched it out of shape. Obviously cistern off and a new flush mechanism is a way forward but it's very rusted inside.

Cannot project...4m in all other cases.....

https://www.mygov.scot/add-extension-house If your extension will have one storey, you don't need planning permission as long as: it's located at the back of the house it doesn't go back further than 3 metres if it's a terraced house, or 4 metres if it isn't the height of the eaves (where the wall meets the roof) is no higher than 3 metres it's not higher than 4 metres, including sloping roofs it doesn't cover more ground area than your house does it doesn't take up half the 'curtilage' – the grounds behind your home it isn't within a conservation area

What it is saying is its 4m if you're semi or detached (the any other case), but only 3m if terraced and the extension is within 1m of the boundary. Now I think there's a 10m (or 5m) boundary rule too.

Attempted a clear out yesterday. Got the drain roads down so far before hitting a blockage so ordered a pressure washer attachment as an attempt before calling the pros. The rusted on sheared bolts are also proving problematic. Drilled a pilot hole attempted with bolt extractors and they don't seem to be gripping. Admittedly pilot hole isn't aligned straight through the bolt. Not sure what next attempt should be.

Hands usually have a cuts and grazed so avoid infection! Do the things that cover the holes work? To me they look like they just cause problems elsewhere at height.

Thanks, cleared out what I could without getting the hands in and tried blasting with the house but just filled with water. I need to get the marigolds on! I do have drain roads but not sure if angles for flex will work. It's a downpipe that needs some TLC as around joints have been silicones, but I wonder if this is due to the water rising due blockage and trying to make the issue.

Really not my area of knowledge. We have a blocked downpipe. Took off the access cover near ground level and it's filled with organic material. Is there any home/DIY method to try and clear it? Also I only had to look at the bolts and they broke off due to rust, is the best method for removal to drill out the remaining bit?

@Conor that's good to hear! They (three in total) arent the heaviest. Any sort of timber thicknesses you'd recommend? I have also spied this https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwiBhJCq_eH3AhVDtO0KHXGMAKwYABAKGgJkZw&ae=2&sig=AOD64_0H5Jf8zoQ8GgKSuDWQRty9R0X63Q&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwiJk4mq_eH3AhWNXcAKHUzwCagQwg8oAHoECAEQDg&adurl= Not designed for the job but also wondered if it would work.

Bought some new lights and the lathe and ceiling holes are around same diameter as the new pendant bracket drill holes The pendant itself will cover the holes but the bracket points won't. Could I use two bits of wood stuck together? One to straddle the hole and an other to act as a packer to get to ceiling thickness? May need a wee doodle if my description fails. Or thinking now I type not sure if angles and thicknesses would work as it would need to be premade.

@ProDave that's the badger, although don't require the isolator valve. The one that's currently on you can see PTFE tape. Looking at the night you can see the thread has broken off and is "flapping" about. The thread on valve side looks fine. Anyone know if they're all standard size? Found a couple of websites that sell them, also wondered if they went by an other name hence not finding them.