Kelvasco

Agree with Dave, Not much you can do in applying it to save the paint/finish. It’s mainly about removing it. We not long in removing a huge amount of painted wood chip wallpaper in a 1960’s house (160sqm floor area, every wall had 2 layers of it). We took it off with a chemical spray & a hole cutting tool, walls underneath had minor damage so was a simple fill & sand job after.

Hello, Few things. The cold loop should come off the control group on the boiler so that you don't have pressure issues. This will likely mean 15mm for both cold + hot, or if your boiler can, then do 22mm for everything. My understanding (happy for the proper experts of this forum to correct it) was the only way to "prioritize" was just fitting the specific application to the first point as the cold/hot feeds in. Also, match those across the manifolds. However, if you do the feeds in 22mm and then come out the Hep's in 15mm it won't make much difference as the feed rate will be greater than the 15mm output. That's what happens in our application (only for a bathroom though, not the whole house). We feed the manifold with 22mm's and then 15mm's to shower/bath/sink/toilet. Seems to be working as people can use the sink without the shower having issues. Hope that helps.

Correct, the market for Chademo units (V2G that is) is basically disappearing very quickly. But if you want to have V2G at home then a used Leaf + a used charger is quite a competitive offering.

Unfortunately, no, all of the current suppliers no longer make the V2G units as Chaedmo is a dead standard in EU/NA and both Wallbox and Indra now make CCS2 versions (which don't work with the Leaf). The best bet is used unfortunately, I've been tracking it though and there seems to one come up on average every 6 weeks based on the last 1 year of tracking (average prices between £1,400->£1,500)

JohnMo is correct, You only require a G98-type approved inverter. The best, if you're going 48V, would be something from Victron. They publish their certificates online and you can send them to the DNO for approvals. It is a little dependent on what other onsite renewables you have (solar, wind) and how you use them (thermal storage, ASHP etc). As you could also look at something like Sunsynk/Deye hybrid inverter with G98 compliance to bring solar in and manage the overall energy controls better. Seems one of the bigger challenges (like a few on here have found) is managing the energy in and out of the battery system at the right times, if your DIY'ing something then DC coupling (with Synsynk/Deye type equipment) seems to make that easier.

Hello, It's a great idea. I've put a few discussion points/options below but happy to discuss further. 1. Not all Nissan Leaf's are suitable. Only though with Chademo 1.0, those with Chademo 0.9 are not V2G capable. The fastest way to tell is the interior color. If you have a grey dash and grey carpets then it's a Japanese-built 24kHhr model with Chademo 0.9. If it's a black dash, black carpet then it's a UK-built 24kWHr with Chademo 1.0. 2. You'll need either a Wallbox Quasar or Indra V2G. Many of the UK trials are ending at the moment so look on eBay and Facebook for used versions. Expect to pay £1,500 for it (excluding fitting). Quasar is the better option if you can get it, just make sure you get proof of "ownership" from the trial it was on (normally Ovo Energy or Octopus). 3. If you use the above option then you'll need a way to auto disconnect and also provide a neutral base which the Quasar can't do (sometimes called "islanding mode"). 4. The best option, if you don't use the car, is to remove the battery from the car and connect directly to a DC-coupled inverter with islanding support. There is a GitHub by a person called Dala-EV that goes into detail if needed. This also enables you to have a higher power output if needed (Quasar is limited to 7kW, Dala method can go up to 22kW 3 phase quite easily). I'm in the middle of a similar development. I'm going with option 1+2 using a Gen 2 40kWhr Nissan Leaf + a Quasar but I'm on-grid and don't have the neutral/islanding issues. I'm also planning on adding 2 other batteries to our system using method 4 within a 10ft container. But that's mainly because I have access to cheap used vehicle batteries and want a scalable solution. Thanks

Hello All, After a hectic year, we are now in the position to move forward with planning our self-build/development project. I'm hitting an initial stumbling block though, I was planning on doing my own drawing but due to time issues, we need to bring on support to move the project quicker. Everyone I've reached out to locally (North Bedfordshire) is either too busy or isn't interested. Does anyone have any recommended people who could support the below? Project 1 - Access Drawings for highways - Currently: We have one access from the road which has a blind side. - Plan: Full planning (as the road is a classified road) to modify this entrance to be highways compliance (extended splays due to lowering of the fence) and add an additional entrance on the other side of the plot for separation purposes. - Support needed: Site survey + highways drawings + site drawings of old vs. new Project 2- Outline planning for a single property - Currently: Large garden - Plan: Single dwelling (3D CAD all done in Sketchup, albeit poorly) - Support needed: Turn 3D into planning drawings (outline only)+ site survey The overall site view is shown attached. The plot previously had planning put it (then withdrawn) but neither the person doing the site survey or the previous develop is available. Any help the community could provide would be much appreciated.

Hello all, We’re close to finishing a mild renovation of a bungalow & now wish to move on to planning the next steps. I was looking to see what peoples thoughts were on the below open questions that I’m a little stuck with. 1. is outline planning permission worth doing vs a full application? I’m starting to think Outline planning will allow me to focus the planners on specific non-combative topics such as flood risk, access & acceptability rather than also adding in lots about the design. 2. Can you re-use previous applications data + documents if you didn’t commission them? Previous owner applied for planning in 2014 (withdrawn due to numerous issues ) which has great site maps (with A.O.D’s), tree survey & a flood assessment that would certainly make life easier if reusing. 3. Access, has anyone separated land & reused the current access for the new plot while adding a new access for the existing property? Our current accesses has a blind side (due to a small curve in the road combined with high neighbouring hedge line) which I want to use for the new property without changing & then add a new access (which won’t have issues) to the current property. This will, I hope, make the arguement of existing access not changing therefore splay testing not required for the new property. Anyone have similar experiences? also, apologies for the lost post. I feel I’ll be posting a significant amount in the coming months so any support is much appreciated.

Thanks both, Temp, yes. I want to raise about 1/3 of the current garden (15m by 5m approx). This is the 1/3 the photo was taken from, in the photo is the remaining 2/3rds. This is quite a hill so we’re not going to try and level that. what we want to do is level the bottom 1/3 which needs raising by about 400mm-600mm in places. thanks for removing type 1 from the picture. I can get some ‘as dug’ soil so thinking to use that. my confusion was soil vs gravel vs type 1 & also how to build it up. Or am I just overthinking it & Should just do compacted soil and be done. thanks.

Hello All, Been abit of a lurker on here for years and currently not self-building but renovating a house. We are now on to the garden, something I've never attempted before. It's not level in any direction in any real way with a ~2.5m height difference front to back (20m long) and same again from side to side (again about 20m). We'd like to level about 1/3 of this. This 1/3 has a left to right run of approx 0.4m and a front to back run of approx 0.6m, so basically before a big hill starts. Question is, how do you build this up? It will all be laid with new grass after so not structural. Can't find anything definitive online other than 1. dig to 150mm below finished level and rebuild and 2. compact whatever you do add. Option 1 - Dig to 150mm down and levelled. - Fill with type 1 and compact - 50mm top soil - Turf Option 2 - Dig to 150mm down and levelled - Fill with "as is" top soil and compact - 50mm good top soil - Turf Option 3 - Help :) Any help you can provide would be much appreciated as I know this place has a huge wealth of experience. I've added a photo too to give some information, patio area is back of house, we are trying to level the area where the photo is taken, approx 15mx4m area. Thanks. Kevin.

Welcome to the forums John, I'm a long time lurker but limited comments, you've joined the most insightful forum on the internet in my book. I'm also based in Bedford (well Bromham) so would be interested to view your project as it goes along if you didn't mind. Always on the lookout for a plot to build on so would be good to see a local Passivhaus/Eco home going up & the challenges of that. Thanks & Regards.

The plans look like a nice base (without knowing your specific brief). Nic and Richi both makes good points. In addition to them I'd consider changing the entrance to the kitchen/dining room and extending the double height space. For the kitchen you could move the wall inline with the living room wall and change the door orientation, that way when you open the door there is a clear view to the corner opening (dining room) and down into the sun room. Currently you open into a wall and the kitchen/utility hall. For the double height space, you could remove the HP storage area (move it downstairs or the store behind the stairs) and have it fully open downstairs. That way it would reallly open the entrance area and bring in more light.