jayroc2k

I am trying to dismantle the stairs in a Victorian house so that the spindles and railings can be sent to a print stripping service (faster and not so expensive). The trouble is that I can see any screws and or nails and would not want to spend 2 months with a heat gun scrapping it down. Niether does the thought of ripping out and replacing appeal to me, feels wasteful to just replace them. Any idea or thoughts

I had a look at Ecology's financials, and they seem to have done a fair bit of lending in 2015. My conclusion is that the criteria change (passive, EPC A and at one point EPC B) is to manage lending. Mainstream banks do so by moving the rates up or down to either increase or decrease lending or change underwriting standards e.g. 1 CCJ is acceptable (to increase lending) or No CCJ (to decrease lending) Ecology do not play the rates or underwriting game and hence uses construction criteria to manage flow.

And, buy the best face mask you can. I tried 3M disposal ones (5 for £10) and it was not great, I tried the one that looks like you are removing asbestos for £15 (disposable one and you can't change filters) and it was superb

Having spoken to a few muck away firms, they all want the plasterboard separated, they also have varying pricing for percentage of plasterboards in the muck. You can check your council's plasterboard policy at their disposal site, those too can vary from council to council. Can work out quite cheap if your council's disposal site accepts them delivered in a van

Thanks, It is a draughty Victorian house although I will be putting in full double glazing, Rockrool between joists and insulating the ground floor (50mm XPS/EPS/PIR as the joist is only about100mm deep resting on another 100mm joist sitting on bricks which was a terrible idea and th ejoist touching the bricks show signs of rot (close my eye and pretend I did not see them The make up will be 22-25mm battens, 50mm insulation and 16mm pipes allowing for 12mm safety margin so the flooring does not sqish the pipes Its an end terrace so I am still debating insulating the gable wall due to the original coving and a developer has put in planning for an infill house which will turn it into a mid-terrace house in the coming years (he is at least 12-18 months away from even starting) here is the emmeti manifold controller, it allows hot temp on one side and lower temp on the other side with full controls and ability to turn on/off the boiler http://emmeti.co.uk/products/t3-ufh-heating-controllers/m3v-control-sets/

I am sorting out the 30yr old central heating and would like some help deciding on the two options It is a 3 storey Victorian house with 4 bedroom and 2 bath Option 1 Keep all radiators upstairs and link them to a single programmable thermostat with TRVs UFH downstairs and a single radiator, all running off an Emmeti manifold which allows control of the radiator and UFH separately Option 2 Keep all radiators upstairs but each room on a separate loop controlled via its own thermostat running off a manifold (Same as option 1)UFH downstairs and a single radiator, all running off an Emmeti manifold which allows control of the radiator and UFH separately The second option is more expensive as it requires new plumbing so each room are on a separate loop, thermostats, manifold costs etc. however, this option allows me to add a wet UFH to each of the bathrooms with some degree of control Is option 2 an overkill?

House in south London. Purchased just before 'Brexit'. Inteprete that as you may! Hopefully someday I'll find a plot for the next move. Unfortunately, after a weeks of removing render, tiles and fixtures, I have come to one conclusion. Victorians house builders were b!00dy Cowboys!!! ? And yet, people up and down the country think of Victorian house as 'properly built'.

:-) I gave up on trying to find a plot (too pricey) and bought a Victorian town house in need of full renovation. Bit of me felt sad at that decision, however, this will give me plenty to do, think about, ask and share!