DannyT

You have clay air bricks and plastic telescopes. They just don’t go together. I mortar all around the telescope and the top gap gets covered with 4 inch damp or cavity tray before next courses are laid. telescope should have been a course lower under the floor and a concrete lintel laid over the top then floor block onto that. I’ve just looked at some of your other pictures and although it’s a bit sloppy in places, you will see none of it when it’s done. Yes it could have been rubbed up on the back better, perps could have been better but you probably only see top 2 course after you have landscaped. It’s a few mm up and down too but as long as the building is the right measurement and square. I wouldn’t be happy if I had done this for someone but I would move on from it.

Exactly and some of the figures I have seen as examples on a few websites belonging to architects are eye watering! Your figures seem about right. I’m expecting about £5k especially given that most of the work was done by the same architect with the previous owner. Everything is passed off by planning and permission is in place. I’m just looking to change the design on the same footprint, access, soak aways, landscaping, garage stays same too. I’ve even designed it for him! I’ll speak to him to see if we can agree a fixed price for submitting a change of design and getting through building warrant. If not I’ll look round for someone who can or brave it and go some of it alone.

To be fair I’m going to be one of those people 😂 The reason been at the moment is this architect did all the previous work, gained planning and he was present when foundations were poured so knows the plot well. If the price is too much i be studying the system in Scotland and having a go my self. I’m no stranger to drawings and the local planning department have been friendly so far. Traditional block and block, 200mm cavity. As a bricklayer/builder that’s where all my savings come in. Under 5k would be good. I only like working on fixed prices. Tell me it’s £1200 for X and £1500 for Y and I’m happy with that but don’t tell me 2.5% of a estimate 🙈

Does anyone know anything about RICS table and how a architects fees are calculated using it? The architect Im looking at using has emailed back saying his fees are usually 2.5%-3% of estimated cost as per RICS table. Don’t plan on having them involved after the plans drawn and passed with building regs. No design input from them. We have drawn up a house design we want and kind of want it copied and pasted. Plot has planning but changing design using same footprint. House is single story, 150m2, block and block rendered with slate roof long house style. pretty much fully self built and self managed. What kind of fees does it equate to before I send emails back. we are in Scotland, Dumfries. cheers

With regards to your last question. Some people build a plywood liner on the inside, blocking off the cavity and maybe giving the window something to fix too. something like the link below. https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/19031-200mm-cavity-some-questions/ If your windows sit against the back of outer skin then they should be slightly bigger than opening in my opinion but the inner skin should also have larger opening than the outer to allow windows to be fitted from inside. Windows fitted into the opening should have maybe 4mm a side for allowance. a 1200mm window opening, 1192mm window.

I’m not feeling a 6.5m ceiling. Like a bit of height and velux windows but not to a point right at the top. Also heat rises and I won’t be sitting up there 😉 If that’s the way it’s done in Scotland then that’s how it shall be. I’m used to the way in england so will be learning the Scottish way as go. Currently in Staffordshire but build is southern Scotland.

I was going to put this in roofing section but it seemed more for coverings than construction. Im concerned that a SE is only interested in covering their arse and go over the top with most things. If I were to have a partially vaulted ceiling in living/dinning room and normal ceilings elsewhere, won’t a ridge board be adequate like it were back in the day? collars in the roof, say 2/5 of the way down the rafters? Is there a rule of thumb for this? Im all for doing it properly etc and I know RSJs are used for full vaulted ceilings but I’d prefer the more traditional method. OSB sarking board counter battern scottish slate covering. cheers

That’s good to hear from someone who has experience. It’s not the plan to sit for so long but you never know in todays world. Cheers John.

Forgive me for my stupidity. I’m more hands on than paperwork. If for instance the new amended design was passed by planning. No building warrant etc. Does the 3 year countdown start again to start the new design or is the fact it’s currently in perpetuity and using the original foundations mean it’s again in perpetuity and no time limit imposed? I’ll fire a email this week to planning but wondered if anyone here knows 👍

Thats the plan. ASHP, solar with batteries, lots of insulation, MVHR, triple glazed etc. I have already designed a house to fit on the existing foundation. https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/40750-design-for-mull-of-galloway-thoughts/ I did manage to get an initial site meeting with the original architect but so many questions I should have asked, I did not. We did hope for an amendment to keep architects time to a minimum and not have to go through a whole application. I was concerned by him saying his fee is a percentage of build cost. I’m not interested in that. Straight forward flat fee is what I expect. The plan at moment is for an architect to draw up what I give them, no design input. Just make sure it meets regs, calcs, etc then not have to deal with them again after approval. I suppose if I submitted the design to PD, an architect would have to draw it up their way to submit for building warrant anyway so wouldn’t save much in long run and if I have the original fella, he already knows the site and his previous approved work.

Just some advise for those who know a bit more than me about it. We purchased a plot in Scotland with the strip foundations in the ground for the passed application. The building warrant has expired but we have confirmation from planning department that plot has planning in perpetuity as works were started before it expired. Now we are looking to change the design of the house but use the existing footprint and foundations. Would this come under a whole new application or a amendment to existing? access, soak away, septic tank, house position etc is all going to be the same. Highways, water, etc have already approved current application also. New design is still white, single storey, slate roof as approved previously. If it’s not a whole new application, I’m wondering if I can send in new designs to PD and sort out an architect after for building regs/warrant side of things. cheers

I have fitted on a rack system at the house I’m currently in so has tiles under. New house, solar will be built in so no tiles under those. 45 degree will be the happy medium for me on the new Scotland build. My current house system is a 6 month or so optimal but at 30 degrees, it’s really noticeable in the months we are now going into. last night, 5pm batteries full, this morning 9am down to 50%. Oven on last night, reef tank running 24/7 plus all the usual. Use about 17kwh a day so been careful I could get a full 24hrs from 20kw storage but if it’s looking tight I’ll add a few kw of charge to see me through on the octopus go rate of 8p kw.

It will have to be a lift and slide. I know what you’re getting at with the brush seals. All the effort of air tightness and u values undone with a drafts door would really piss you off. I don’t think a French door style will suit.

That’s ok. It’s how I got my questions answered. so below is a live shot of my system. Currently in full blazing sunshine. 2 months ago that would have been 7kw of solar going in. Why is it only 4.6kw now and less in November-February? The angle of the panels are too shallow for this time of year. If I tilted them now to a steeper angle Im certain id get in the 6500w plus. Therfore charging the batteries sooner and I’d probably been at 100% battery an hour ago. Instead I might just hit 100% before sun goes down but only just. so yes a steeper angle in Scotland will work better in the months that you really need to catch every last kw you can. Thats why I’ll be leaving my house at 45 degree roof and putting as many panels on as reasonable. Solar panels probably cost less that slate per m2 anyway so could be cheaper on a new build than you think.

To be honest I designed the house first with a 45degree then thought about the panels after but it works with the house and my solar needs. Been southwest/west facing, most panels will get the lower winter morning then afternoon sun. Midday is covered by garage panels yes you are correct in away that 30-40 degrees is optimal, but that’s for spring, summer months when sun is higher in sky. In spring, summer, my batteries are often fully charged by midday with ample light, even before sun gets around to optimal position. The problem comes with them at (I believe they are) 30 degrees, when the sun gets lower the light just isn’t hitting the panels head on. At the time of year I need to get every kw I can, the panels need a steeper angle. Dont get me wrong, they still work, but at moment I’m getting highs of 4800w in full sun. Down about 2400w an hour. 50 degrees would work well with a lower sun. In summer it’s not an optimal angle but more hours of light to make up for been down on power.