Moggaman

Hi. I know there is no right answer but is there any guidance on the average per year, an average house with UFH up and down (2000 sq ft).. for electricity use. I have A2W heat pump Heating season is Oct to Aprl/ May where I live thanks

Sorry , haven’t been on in a while. I cut smaller pieces and wrapped them around the brackets as best I could. Plasterers had no issue with them.

Hi. I have decided to plaster my site entrance walls myself. Some questions for you experts!: 1. I intend to scud, scratch and finish coat..with 2 coat plastering beads. Is this overkill or should I scud and finish with single layer bead. 2. Is 5 to 1 mix ok for finish coat and scratch?. 3: how much plasticiser and waterproofer should I add for a typical small electric mixer. 4: what type of waterproofer is needed 5: plastic float the wall and then run with a damp sponge? 6: is it best to apply beads before scudding or after scudding or after scratch? Is mortar the typical way to fix beads on ? any help appreciated. thanks

I mean that after 2 days , both slabs do not feel warm…

Hi. Plumber turned on UFH for first time 2 days ago, upstairs and down . It’s Monday evening and I still can feel a warm slab to my touch… 100mm concrete downstairs on 150mm PIR , 50mm liquid screed on 50mm PIR upstairs . Afraid to ask the plumber cause I have inundated him with questions in the last while. He thinks I’m questioning his work but really I’m just after information. So, I’ll ask ye guys, does it take a good few days for the UFH to ramp up? also, what does this tube at the top of the Manifold represent? thanks

Hi. I have my plant room under my stairs . It’s a small room approx 2m x 1.5m which stores the air to water unit, the MVHR Unit and also the manifold for my UFH pipes run to there. There is no vent as part of the mvhr system in there . The guy who made my stairs said that it shouldn’t get too warm in there cause it can cause the stairs to expand/contract !!?. I presume this room will be warm cause of the UFH pipes running back to the manifold and also the UFH pipes in the slab. There is no stat in this room so it is governed by the hall stat..The stairs is standard red deal and will be carpeted. QUESTION: Do I need to get bespoke Louvre doors to allow more airflow in the room or just put in a standard door…? Opinions appreciated.

Hi. Just wondering which I will pick for my bathrooms. Mira Honesty is more expensive than Mira Atom . The min flow rate of the atom is 3.4 litre per min whilst the min flow rate of the honesty is 4.5litre per min. If there any reason not to pick the Atom. My new air to water system is a 250 litres(ish) tank, so would it be better to get the lower flow rate. Interested on why people would pay substantially more for the honesty than the atom. Interested to hear your views . Thanks

Thanks all. A simple fix really…. Ye might not agree with it.. drilling a few holes in cement board and sprayed expansion foam into it. Has hardened it up substantially.

Hi.I am putting in a polished concrete floor in my new home. My floor was poured on April 4th. It was polished and sealed on June 3rd. The UFH is not yet fully set up but will go on his week. Now I am wondering should I have waited to finish the floor before I put on UFH. At this stage floor is not cracking anywhere it shouldn’t and there are plenty of joints… put my mind at ease!! thanks

Thanks Nick. See again unedited version of what carpenter did before cement board went on . Metal frame flush with timber studs. Can he screw the cement board tight to the metal frame using a metal screw and tighten it around the pan bolts that way?. See green lines below . I still don’t see how the carpenter could have put in anymore horizontal studs between the toilet frame metal uprights with the cistern In the way etc!. am I understanding u right in that the area around the bolts in where the compression will occur when the plumbers tightens the pan to the wall and if the cement board is flexible there, it will crack… what about 12 inches above that near the cistern…no compression, so no issue? One last question please…what is the order in relation to the work here…tiler tiles the wall and tiles into that white box( the flusher )?. Plumber then takes off the white box after tiling and fits the flush plate. I just worry the plumber will blame the chipper for some issue with the flush plate in the future?. thanks Thanks

Thank for that. I see the same question here really. I presume u fixed the board along the blue lines and perhaps fixed it into the horizontal metal bracket . What is backing the cement board at the location shown red approximately?

Can the wall hung toilet afford to lose another 12mm of bolt length??

Toilet frame fixed to block wall.timber frame screwed to wall. It’s the fact that the spacing between the timber studs is wider due to the cistern and toilet frame and the cement board pushes in when pushed

Hi. I am installing 2 Grohe wall hung toilets in my new build. Plumbers installed toilet frames first . Then carpenter built frames around toilet frame. Carpenter put 12mm cement board onto frame .Tiler is in now and he is saying that the area shown (roughly) in red is flexing a bit much. The rest of the cement board is fine and not flexing. The reason is that the distance between the vertical timbers either side of the toilet frame is maybe 100mm wider but also there is no room for a cross timber because of the cistern and pipes etc. carpenter is like ‘ what do you expect me to do?’. help appreciated please…

Hi. I am looking to put in my entrance now. There is a slope going from the road up to my house. There will be 2 inside piers and 2 outside piers connected by block walls plastered. Can I put the footing in on the slope or should I always have a level footing with steps ?. Easier for blocklayer with level footing ?

Steelwork inside?.. So the hinges fit to a steel ?

Hi. I am looking to pour a footing for an entrance next. Two outside piers, 2 inside piers, walls between . An electric gate with swing open from both inside piers.I do not have the type of gate yet but am hopefully going to give a local Welder a load of box iron to make me 2 frames that I can clad myself. What I am wondering is what do I leave out of the block work piers to allow a gate be hung on them in future . Is some iron blocked into the piers as I build them. Any photos or sketch would be great. Thanks as always

Can a fused spur be hidden behind kitchen?.. I have kitchen first fix wired and only a double socket to work with. Also, the waste pipe out is a standard 50mm white pipe.. what can I do in that case…I imagine using the white one would not be a huge risk? thanks

Hi all. Does a quooker just need a normal electrical socket in terms of electricity.. Also , is the standard 50mm white pipe ok for boiling water? thanks

Not unlike this example.

Hi. The finish to our kitchen living area is a sand cement render - no skim. I want to put approx 10mm x 40mm latts on parts of the wall as a centrepiece. Just wondering the best way to fix them. I will have a 20mm gap between latts so cannot put a backing lat in there. Is it rawl plugs for each latt?..might be 10 latts wide in total. These latts will continue along the ceiling - this is just a brad nailers into the plasterboard i presume..would the brads go into the aluminum dropped ceiling holding the plasterboard? Thanks Morgan

Even if water got into a 20mm sand cement render , it’s gonna have a tough time cracking it ?

Interesting theory

Thanks Conor. I realise that this is the standard way with ICF but I am wondering why my option would not work?.. forget about potential staining .. won’t the mesh ensure the render stays where it is put on.. it reinforces it.!. Is there a flexibility issue?