Moggaman
Members-
Posts
243 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Everything posted by Moggaman
-
Hi, I realise this is a question for a SE. I am only looking for guidance as I am only planning my build at this stage. I want to have a hollowcore/precast first floor. I have a proposed span across the kitchen of 5.2m from inside edge of wall to inside edge of wall. Is this too much for a 150mm precast to span or will i need to span a beam the other way as shown in red and place them into the web of that. I realise the wall internally is only shown as a 100mm but that will be a 215mm.. The design upstair is simple..rooms in the roof style all over . Thanks M
-
Was it that the PIR was put in poorly?. Surely, 200mm of say pumped/sprayed foam into 200mm rafters would bring you quite close to a serious u value for the roof?
-
MVHR - sucking in polluted air
Moggaman replied to Moggaman's topic in Mechanical Ventilation with Heat Recovery (MVHR)
i live in the country so i dont think it would be a problem but i imagine in a city it must be a nightmare -
Hi. I am sure this question has been asked. The MVHR system works by sucking in cool fresh air and warms it by exchanging the heat with the stale air on the way out. I presume the intake point cannot differentiate between polluted air and less polluted air. For instance on a cold winters evening if there are fires burning either side of you, how does the intake not pull in smokey dirty air... i realise there is a filter but that can only do so much right.. Probably, a stupid question? Thanks M
-
Hi I have seen how many house are built with a sub floor, then the walls go up and house. Then the insulation is fitted on the sub floor with UFH sitting on the insulation and a screed poured over that.. Why don't people put in radon, insulation, ufh pipes and pour floor in one hit. This way you save on the screed... the obvious benefit is that you can work in better conditions if you do it in 2 hits but is that the only one? Thanks
-
Thanks...Im going to leave out the lift!
-
thanks all for your comments. I will try and keep things centrally located. Nothing in the comments tells me that it is a plumbing no no to have plant room upstairs , just perhaps a logistics problem in certain circumstances?
-
Hi. I was wondering from a plumbers point of view, is there a right or wrong place to situate a Plant Room in a new design. I have located mine upstairs and hope to have hot water tank and other associated bits there too. I aim to have UF heating downstairs (probably not upstairs) and wondered does the Manifold or bits and pieces related to the UF heating have to be downstairs or is this a non issue? Thanks
-
We really dont like dormers!!
-
Thanks for your obs. Fire Escape is not an issue. There is a side hinged window in each bedroom that meets guidelines
-
I have changed downstairs to 2.4m ...good point
-
Thanks for your observations. Think i may take some of them onboard. Kids dont know we are going anywhere...yet..widening the stairs reduces the hallway below to an unacceptable level. i have change to a 45 degree entrance at the bathroom
-
Hi I have designed my own home and the ONLY issue I keep coming back to is the size of 2 of the 3 bedrooms upstairs. I want to have myself/wife and our 2 kids in 3 rooms upstairs - keeping that as the sleeping area of the house. The footprint of this build is externally 12.5m x 9.2m (350mm external walls). Upstairs, rooflights provide the main source of light to the rooms on a 33 degree pitch. The ridge height is at 6.5m and that is the limit. So the overall size of both rooms is 3.65m x 4.0m. Sounds ok but a fair chunk of the 3.65m is a sloping roof. I don't want 'big' bedroom.. I just want enough. I also will have 2 No. 800mm wide rooflights in each room which give extra head height to across approximately 50% of the room width? Kids may have single beds but in our current house they are in doubles so I need to assume that they may want doubles in the new also. What do ye think?. Thanks Moggaman. RoomSize.pdf
-
Hi Could anyone give me a view on my proposed House Design . It is rectangular in plan (mostly). Wallplate is raised to allow liveable space upstairs. The vaulted ceiling will be 225mm rafters with 225mm insulation between. The roof is all rooflights. Can anyone tell me if there is any negative aspect to installing rooflights in terms of efficency. I realise they may be a bit noisy in rain etc but is there any dangers associated with them that I should be wary of. Thanks
-
I was wondering what is the minimum horizontal distance you need to fit a stairs (one flight) to cover a vertical height of 2.8m from floor to first floor level. No half landing or quarter landing Thanks
-
thanks dpmiller. So I will have 20mm to 25mm of wet plaster on the outer leaf, the outside of the plaster will be flush with the cement board which is nailed to the rafter?.. and this cement board is then plastered over to give a 20mm to 25mm outstand at the top of the wall which the gutter will mostly hide? Am I reading you correctly?
-
Hi. I am designing a self build at the moment and I have a few questions which you guys might be able to assist with. My design is a rectangular house with a raised wallplate to allow living space upstairs with rooflights and gable windows for light. I want to build a standard cavity masonry wall with an increased cavity to be filled with a yet to be determined pumped insulation. I also want that eaves less look that has become popular My questions are At what stage does a cavity call for specialised ties. I am looking at a 150mm Cavity..Do I need to over engineer this or will longer ties do?. The house is 13m long by 9 metres wide and its 3.5m to the wallplate with a standard A roof at 30 degrees I am struggling to find a detail for the eaveless roofs. A guy told me today that by right the gable of the building should be plastered before the roof is put on for that detail. FiIor a normal projected out eaves , I get that the rafter sticks out beyond the outer leaf of block and is notched into the inner leaf but with my detail the rafter can be notched on the inner leaf wallplate buudt cannot extend out beyond the outer leaf to avoid conflicting with the plasterboard. Is there a cement board skirt detail that goes in there? This is my first post and appreciate your help I have attached an example of the detail I am going for. Thanks Moggaman.
