Ben100

So I guess my two options are to get a longer sill and sit it over the insulation or install it on the outer leaf of brickwork.

Yep. It’s on the list of jobs.

Yeah, I was thinking that. Maybe I need to replace the sill and sit the entire window back a little.

I'm planning to fill the void with foam. S it looks like the window needs to sit back a bit more.

Hi, I'm replacing my old bay windows and have questions about how the new ones should sit. The window sills on the new windows are shorter than the old ones, so the windows need to sit more forward on the brickwork. This is the bay window space and new window. Is the sill ok to sit like this below? And is it ok for the middle of the window (not recessed) to return to the brickwork? Or does it need to sit more like this? Thanks! Ben

Cheers

Ok, I get what you’re suggesting, thanks. I can’t find the manifold joiners though. Where would you join the two manifolds together?

Hi guys, I need to add an additional 2 zones (4 runs) to my UFH. My original plumber has gone AWOL and no one else seems to want to take on the job. So it’s left down to me. Attached is a picture of what’s installed already. As you can see, there’s no more spaces left on the manifold. I do have 2 more ports left on the thermostat box though. What is the best option here? Replace the entire manifold? Add a second manifold in somewhere? Thanks for any advice guys! Ben

Cheers guys, good information!

Hi all, I know consumer units have torque requirements for the connection screws, but are there torque requirements for power and light switch screw connections too? Thanks, Ben

Hi all, I'm looking to build a new plinth wall around my new extension. The existing house (not the extension) is build with Lime Mortar. I'm not sure if I should go with Lime Mortar or a Hydralime/cement mix when building the new plinth. What are your thoughts? Cheers, Ben

The outlet is in that corner. I've checked, there's nothing holding it back. The membrane is above the felt. It's definitely a dip, probably around 15mm deep.

It does have a fall, so it shouldn’t pool. I think it’s a dip in the roof there.

The outlet is in the far corner, through the parapet wall. It’s still under construction, so it’s just a lead outlet at the moment. I'm not keen on the water pooling here. Maybe it can be fixed with some more layers of felt or resin?

Hi all, I’ve just had my new flat roof installed but water seems to be pooling in the corner by the gutter. Is this an issue or something I shouldn’t worry about? I’ve checked for any blockages but there’s nothing stopping the water going into the gutter. It just looks like there is a dip the water is collecting in.

I'll play it safe and fix each one, with two nails at the edges.

I'm using plain clay tiles, which have a batten lip, on a 30 degree pitch roof. I also live in the East of England in zone 1. If I need to pin each one I will, I just don't want to do unnecessary work Here are the tiles https://edilians.co.uk/media/productattach/t/e/technical_brochure_-_20x30_-_2020.pdf

Hi all, I’ve been reading about tile fixing and have found some contradictory information out there. Some are saying you just need to nail the 2 eaves rows and then every 3 or 5, while other information says you need to nail every tile. My tile manufacturer states “BS 5534 states that all interlocking tiles must be mechanically fixed.”. Does this just depend on the type of tile?

Yeah, after thinking it through a bit more I ended up installing an plastic eaves tray.

Wouldn't you end up with the same issue? The plastic eaves tray would stop the membrane from sagging in between the rafters and allowing any water out.

Thanks guys, all great information!

Again, counter battening seems a bit overkill for just the bottom two battens. Maybe I can lift the problem battens a few mm using shims or something similar?

Could do, but it’s probably a bit overkill for the south of England ? But that does raise a question. How do you allow water to run out under the battens if you fix them to the flat OSB?

Hi all, I've just started my first roof on my extension and have a few question. The design is like so. 1. Timber frame, with pre-built trusses 2. Exposed rafter tails 3. OSB sheet material over exposed rafter tails to hide the felt/membrane and battens 3. Felt/membrane over OSB with enough overhand to go into the gutter when installed 4. First batten to create a kick-up on the bottom tile 5. Additional battens to fix tiles 6. 20/30 tiles for 30 degree pitched roof How does this design sound? Am I missing anything? One concern I have is with the OSB and felt. The OSB creates a flat surface for the felt to site on, and the battens fix firmly to the OSB and rafters. This means that I do not have any gap between the last 2 battens and the felt. Is this an issue? The other felt and battens have a small gap between them so any water can escape. I'm concerned that water may/will get stuck here and rot the lower battens? Thanks in advance for any advice! Ben

I have a quote from a local timber yard for 32x175 Black Painted Feather Edge 4.8mtr lengths @ £2.60MTR+VAT. Sounds pretty good!