G and J

We have just taken building insurance with LV. Timber frame, part block skin part timber clad. Standard terms, remarkably good value. Such good value that I rang back in and checked that they had noted the timber cladding.

OK, I’m going to risk sounding dumb now, but is it really worth the effort to replace the manifolds? Maybe ensure a few isolators are put in so that just the cold or just the hot can be shut off, but given that the horse has bolted will enough time be saved in the future to repay the extra time and delay (and the knock on effects of a pissed off tradesman)? If there’s a leak you shut down, deal with it pronto or whack a stop end on the offending bit till you get the parts. I maybe guilty of Hep2O think here, but I put isolators everywhere in our last house and in 34 years most of them never got closed off.

Ours are (and/or will be) hidden away in nearby cupboards. You need access every Julember so why worry about convenient access?

The basic premise of the design was a single circuit running above dew point to take the edge off heatwaves. (Downstairs with the UFH that’s working a treat already). We took an active decision not to go for aircon type cooling. We don’t want wet floors so if we encompassed significant condensation on the fancoil(s) then that means a second circuit and a volumiser and, and, and…. And whilst that may be needed that’s not our first choice. We want to keep it simple, and if my arithmetic is correct we only need a little cooling. One odd aside, we’ve found that we can sleep comfortably with the MVHR induced lower humidity at higher temperatures than we could have done in our old naturally aspirated house. I’ve nicknamed the Zehnder “Life Support” but perhaps I should call it Turbo.

I’m too much of a whimp. I looked at one from Germany and apart from the unknown of import duties (thank you so much Brexit) the possible grief of maintenance worried me off of the idea. I would prefer to have a uk distributor who hopefully will carry spares for a good few years. I can dream.

Well done Nick. Will investigate.

I thought that. When I contacted them they clarified that it’s only the concealed (i.e. naked) units that can be hung from a ceiling. The briza units are a lot more attractive.

Our concern with recessed ceiling units was that we didn’t want to build in the need for loft access for maintenance. I’m creaky enough as it is let alone in 15 years time as I approach my 9th decade!

Brilliant. Thank you. I have googled and googled fan coils, fan convectors, hydronic terminals, heat pump convectors, and many other combinations and not seen them. I've had a look at their website, and it appears exactly what we need. I’ve had the same conversation repeatedly, and been met with confusion when I’ve tried to explain what we are trying to do. These guys appear to have already got it. @nikotime who are you getting a quote from?

If you think Welsh Nick is going to replace me as tea boy and cleaner you’ve got another thing coming. I’ve got a talent and I’m going to use it! One lump or two?

I know who is to blame. Little, round, bald guy with a dodgy sense of humour. He got lumbered with the labels of Principal Designer and Principal Contractor but his real talent was as Head of Global Operations for On Site Catering and Sweeping. Humph. One tries….

It was, and I identified the unit I intended to buy. Just not available. Sigh. I’ll get there.

Yes, hung from a ceiling; to do cooling and no condensate drain, plan to run above dew point

We need a fan coil, in our bedroom. It was always part of the plan, so we have ‘lecky and pipes laid ready, but I can’t find one. I know that sounds dumb and maybe I am missing something obvious. But I can’t find one. So I need help. The brief: a 2 pipe fan coil which can be hung from a ceiling. Needs to be less than a meter wide. I identified the Myson iVector 2, which may have been perfect, but that’s not available, and they can’t even predict when it will be. And I simply can’t find an alternative. Help!

I will do if the technical guys don’t sort it. We’ll live with a bit of condensation on our manifold for now, and I’ll find time sometime to store the manual.

It is a setup issue and I’ve had some input from Maxa technical and am seeking more. We have a Maxa heat pump, single zone, UFH only at present, no volumisers or any other unnecessary gubbins. We won’t be getting into the realms of damp floors. But what does “latch on” mean?

I think it’s my turn to ask a dumb question. (When one has a talent one should use it!). What’s is the issue with condensation? I get that condensation on a tiled floor would not be good. I’m not trying to cool the floor that much. I also get that condensation on a concealed pipe would not be good, rotting the timber nearby. We are seeing condensation on our manifold when I run the ASHP at too cool a flow temp. (OK there’s another question there but our heat pump is doing odd stuff, appearing unwilling to ‘get out of bed’ for flow temps above f cold, so cooling needs to be in ‘hard’ bursts, but that’s another question). So we run our heat pump, have a nice coolish slab, get condensation on the manifold, so what? It’s all stainless and brass and plastic, I can put a towel under it to catch the drips, so where’s the harm short term? One day, I’ll have fitted a fan coil upstairs (having major issues finding a ceiling mounted one), and the heat pump control will be sorted so it does moderate cooling so we’ll avoid condensation that way and I can box in the manifold safe in the knowledge that it’s not dripping. But for now I need to burst cool the slab as that’s what the heat pump wants to do, so is it ok to accept condensation on an exposed manifold during a heatwave?

Ours too, but as suggested above depends how you buy. We have sourced the majority of things.

We didn't have as many internal walls (open plan), and being timber frame /no radon barrier /different construction may not be helpful , but we did exactly that....popped off some of the internal walls to allow slab/insulation etc to be much easier and then rebuilt internal walls off slab (we did check it out with both our SE and timber frame supplier). Felt like a backward step at time, but was worth it for later simplicity... self build unfortunately does feel like a steps forwards can be followed by steps back

We're just about to fit the same quooker as above (pro 3) but looking to try and get drawer below, anyone "been there done it" ?

We've followed the above (vertical cladding) the first vertical batten means the slope on the second horizontal batten allows the water to run off into the cavity....or at least that's the plan!

Haven't had my coffee yet but you asked for comments. If you then go on to criticise those comments because what you wanted was another answer it dosn't encourage bothering to respond.

In the rental we're shortly to move out of we have our dining room table 650mm from wall......far to tight for comfort, feels "mean" and if you have 3 people down that side the middlee person can't get out behind those remaining seated.

Good point, just for clarification ours is a cold roof

Is this ok? Appreciate that you've had problems sourcing a bricklayer, but this wouldn't have been ok for us. Not sure if you're able to be there in the day, but what has worked for us is trying to establish buy in for the project, people have seen us doing stuff and we have made it clear its going to be our home (not a profit making venture), and whilst it can be difficult to pick things up a "sorry, not sure that's right; not what we were looking for; or even know we're being picky" has gone a long way. There is no doubt we've been lucky, but ........