jack

Not a realistic option at the moment, but: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atomic_battery

100% agree.

I'm more than happy to have turbines near me. I've had plenty of conversations with friends who feel the same. More to the point though, building more in England is unlikely to change the number being built in Scotland. If you think there are too many wind turbines being built in Scotland, that's something to take up with the Scottish government.

https://www.instagram.com/reels/DOd5v_yiL4E/

Fixing it in the open position will guarantee to make your house hotter during the day. Bypass should only be used (and should automatically turn on) when the outside temp is below the inside temp. Your MVHR shouldn't ever be delivering 31 deg air. In normal, non-bypass mode, the MVHR will work to maintain any existing temperature difference between inside and outside. In summer that means it will transfer most of the heat from the incoming air to the outgoing air, significantly reducing the temperature of the air delivered to the house. So if it's 30 deg outside, and 20 deg inside, the air delivered into the house will be something like 22 deg, depending on the heat recovery efficiency of your unit. Summer bypass only comes on when it's cooler outside than inside. Depending on the unit, you might be able to adjust the temperature at which it kicks in. To maximise effectiveness: Reduce airflow when it's really hot outside, cooler inside, and you want to minimise incoming heat. Turn it off if you like, but you risk a stuffy, humid house. Personally I'd avoid that. Summer bypass won't operate in these conditions. When the temperature outside drops below the inside temp and summer bypass kicks in, bump up the flow rate to maximise purging.

I've deleted the duplicate post.

Any particular reason to place this upstream of the MVHR unit? I may be missing something, but this way you'd lose some of the "coolth" through heat exchanger inefficiency. That inefficiency could potentially be worsened by moisture in the outgoing air condensing due to the cold incoming air.

Generally yes, but only if humidity is lower outside than in. Where I am, humidity is still high, and is forecast to rise through the night into the high 80s. Thankfully it should drop a fair bit through tomorrow.

I lowered the flow temp on our underfloor cooling from 16 deg to 14 deg a few days ago, in anticipation of the several day heat wave. The surface of the door (polished concrete) slowly fell to a minimum of 18.7 deg a couple of days ago. It's slowly drifted up to 18.9 deg since. In the middle of the afternoon today, I noticed some darker spots on the surface of the concrete. Within three hours of noticing that, entire sections of the floor in the kitchen were slightly damp. We've never seen so much as a whiff of moisture in 7 or 8 years of using underfloor cooling. It's amazing what a two degree flow temperature difference coupled with high humidity (~80 inside at the moment!) can do. I've turned the flow temp back up and will monitor.

You need some ventilation even when everything is closed up. Draughts will do it if have a draughty house. MVHR is a way of providing that ventilation without bringing in full temp air from outside to replace your precious cool air. As noted, MVHR isn't 100% efficient. I tend to keep it turned on as low as possible during weather like this, as that reduces the losses in absolute terms (i.e., you lose double the amount of energy with the same 90% efficiency if you double to airflow).

How so? All MVHR does is try to maintain any temperature difference between inside and outside. If it's cooler inside than out on a hot day, then MVHR will help. Or are you thinking about how MVHR would (or wouldn't!) work in your draughty house?

I'd just tell them it's already there because it's an existing dwelling and ask whether they need more info. If it's listed on one of the broadband checker sites, you could include a screenshot of what's available at your address.

You're lucky you haven't seriously injured yourself. Table saws are one of the most dangerous tools in the shop, even when used for what they're designed for. You can use a table saw for cross cuts, but you need a cross cut sled or similar. Easy enough to knock one up, but even then it really isn't designed for cross cutting long pieces of wood. 100% chop saw territory.

That's no way to refer to the lady.

We used it in a few places but didn't tile directly onto it. One thing I'd suggest thinking about his how porous it is. I don't know what adhesive you plan to use, but I'd guess it would suck a lot of water out of, say, flexible cementitious adhesives. All speculation on my part, so please don't rely on it! Yeah, it's so much more challenging to work with than plasterboard. However, once up, it's dead solid, and you can hang just about anything off it.