jack

I've managed to identify the stuff I used to seal/bond between our garage door frame and the surrounding engineering brick (slips). It Soudaseal 240FCl. Hybrid polymer sealant adhesive Soudaseal 240 FC combines sealing and bonding applications on all porous and smooth surfaces. Its high quality Hybrid Polymer technology warrants outstanding adhesive performance, permanent elasticity and long term weather resistance. High chemical resistance. Meets ISO 11600 F20HM. Suitable for sanitary applications. Featured properties High modulus hybrid polymer sealant & adhesive Damp surface adhesion Conforms to ISO 11600 F 20 HM Over-paintable Silicone & isocyanate free XS1 fungicide Applications Strong bonding which requires elasticity and high end strength. Bonding in vibrating constructions. Flooring joints in construction. I'm not sure who told me about it, but it's really impressive stuff. It still looks as good as the day I applied it over five years ago. It's not super-flexible but it's very tough. I also found it fairly easy to apply and get a good result, using masking tape, and some soapy water for smoothing. It's also not that expensive for what it is - less than half the price of CT1, for example. No idea what it's like for use in bathrooms etc (although it does have a fungicide), but for exterior work where you don't need something highly flexible, it's brilliant.

We used tens of tubes of the stuff to stick brick slips to walls inside our house. Not a single one has budged in 10 years.

This thread hasn't been visited for a while and it's pretty unlikely the original poster is still monitoring it. You can tag people you want to know you've posted by typing the @ sign followed by their name: @k dawg Depending on their account settings, they might be notified by email that someone's tagged them. Beyond that there isn't much you can do but start your own thread and see whether anyone can give you advice on your situation. Good luck.

(Moved as requested by original poster.)

We have almost the identical situation on a large wall high up in a double-height section in our kitchen. My best guess (based on our experience) is that it will be exactly the same when you paint it. I doubt you'll be able to completely sort it, but you could try some judicious sanding with a long, flat sanding block to knock the high spots off, followed by careful application of scraped on filler with a wide trowel to fill any low bits. The affected wall in my house is almost east-west, with a large window to the east. In our case, there's only a short period - a few minutes, I guess - on sunny mornings in Autumn where this effect is visible. We decided it wasn't worth trying to do anything about.

@vishusingh, you've come to the right place. Must of us are amateurs who've found (sometimes had to find, like you) our way through difficult and complex situations. There are also some very experienced people who give their time freely to help. Post your questions in the relevant sub-forums, and no doubt someone will be along to help. Good luck.

Yes, power is the rate at which energy is delivered, so power = energy/time. My comment about time was in response to the poster asking "what duration" the 3 kW heat loss was over:

You can get induction pads/plates that sit on the induction hob, allowing you to heat non-ferric cookware. This sort of thing. I wouldn't use them as a permanent solution or where large power output is involved, but for a moka pot I reckon they'd be fine. Do your own research though!

That's a tidy-looking house. Great to see MBC in action. We used them over 10 years ago but still have great memories of their work ethic. They were one of the few trades we had onsite where there were minimal problems, and those that did arise were addressed immediately without argument.

Same. Our house temp changes about 1 °C per day with the heating off in the winter. Having no heating on for a couple of hours is imperceptible. Compare that to old Victorian houses we've lived in, where the temperature would change several degrees over only a few hours.

'kW' is power, so it's a continuous number. There is no time component. If you want to know how much energy the house uses, you multiply power by time. For example, 3 kW of power supplied for an hour is 3 kWh (the unit electricity is charged in).

Great thread @Nickfromwales I've pinned it for visibility.

It's not really an article, more a tool that shows the cost of wind generation curtailment and paying for gas to make up what was curtailed. The other info is just very brief (line or two each) commentary about what the page is showing and how we might improve the situation.

@Oceanjules, FYI I hid your duplicate post over in 'General Joinery'. It's generally better to keep discussions to one thread, and I think this is the better sub-forum for this topic.

Any or all of what I said might be wrong, but that's exactly the point I was discussing: