Adam2

@PeterW what bits and pieces would I need then to trigger this for a set duration if I were to use "traditional" or an HA approach? Traditional - momentary switches in each location with a switched live connected to some sort of central component that will allow any of the inputs switched to trigger the switch live to the MVHR on the boost line (for now just thinking about using the std boost). Just not sure what the intermediate thing would be called? With HA I could use 3 x momentary switches with HA module and detect when one is pressed then activate a relay for a set period - correct?

Cheers will draw a pic to make sure I communicate this will to others

Thanks @nod so a frame over the block, steel and timber infilled with EPS and strip of ventilated soffit board along the bottom edge? This is based on my guess on what a vent board is

Yes absolutely needs insulating, that was the intention - just wanting to make sure the EPS over these 3 materials and then rendered will be stable so not likely to start cracking across the joins if I take this approach

Our ICF (Nudura) house is up, steels all in and we're preparing for windows and thinking about render finishes etc We have a few areas where we're not sure how best to proceed - have asked engineer and architect so will see what they come up with One of them is this steel section over what will be sliding doors with a course of blocks over it: What's the best way to bring that out so that when we render it we don't get cracks? Was thinking to mechanically fix EPS onto the blocks, steel and the small timber ladder in-fill section (just visible beneath) all to the same depth as surrounding EPS so when it's rendered hoping the mesh will help bridge the gaps over these 3 different base materials. Or should we also then put cement board across the EPS to create a more stable base? Not sure if any other options?

I think so yes - amazing there is not more info available but Nuaire do answer their phones so I can go back to confirm before I blow it up.

The install guide isn't so helpful seems to refer to wiring into the lighting circuits for boost when bathroom light is on. Feels like there should be a more in-depth guide also covering the grey wire which I think is for the max boost trigger (with black being normal boost)

Thanks @PeterW I'm planning installing HA - mainly Zwave but some Zigbee (with Hubitat controller). I had wanted to keep some things separate from HA if they didn't have to be included so for MVHR the default would be the inbuilt humidity detection + some form of backup switch control to trigger boost manually if needed. One thing I haven't experimented with yet on the HA side is how to interface between electric components that don't directly connect to an HA control unit - so in this example if I were to use a HA humidity sensor or even a HA switch to identify an "event" of interest, do I just wire the MVHR boost sensor into a HA relay and trigger that?

Seems there is no in-built boost timer so will need to use momentary switch from each location to a timer which can then drive the switch live for x mins to activate boost control. Their normal approach is to run this from the light switch but we don't like that so now looking for a nice set of controls to do this - in-room switch that can trigger a time delayed live feed - contemporary suggestions appreciated, otherwise we'll hide an ugly switch in a cupboard!

Thanks @ProDave I found something similar from Nuaire designed for their systems which would be OK but hoped there may be a way to just use a standard momentary switch to close the circuit to a boost input. Will be able to contact them Monday if needed and see if they have any alternatives.

I managed to bag one of these at a bargain price a while back and now looking at first fix electrics and think it's worth running some cable for boost switches in case the internal humidity sensors don't act fast enough or if "emergency" boost is required. I have a MRXBOXAB-ECO4 manual (will need to get one more as the design is for 2 units largely due to duct run lengths). These units will serve: Unit 1: 2 x en-suite bathrooms + 1 separate WC + kitchen + utility Unit 2: 2 x en-suite bathrooms + 1 separate WC I'd like to have something simple so not wanting to link this up with home automation. ideally I'd have a retractive switch in each en-suite (possibly also WCs) and in the kitchen to trigger boost for a set duration. I can't see in the manual if that is possible - there is mention of the eco-smart sensor connectors and optional switches etc which looks like buying some more Nuaire bits - which is OK if needed but may be nicer switch options. Doesn't look like enough info in the manual to see how you can wire up a simple momentary switch to trigger a boost as far as I can see but if anyone has already done this or can see a way that would be super helpful.

Hi, lots of factors to consider but with a suitably sized buffer tank you'll limit short cycling to some degree. We don't need a large kW unit so much for heating but for water re-heat which may for some be a determining factor in size of heat pump

Still sat on my rental living room floor ? We just poured our UFH screed this week so starting some internal walls then first fix so doubt will have running properly until Jan. I did power mine up to check was working OK - all seemed fine and sound level was very quiet but no idea to what level it was running at for that test. I need an extra one so if you have a good source would appreciate the info

Quite, I have no attic in this house but I do have a nice space under the garage which will serve a similar purpose. Either that or facebook marketplace along with a LOT of other things that have been building up these past few weeks - why on earth I have a whole roll of land-drain is a total mystery Very nice - just did a quick price check and yes Screwfix is £2 /m roughly for 15mm which is pretty heavy going if I have a couple of 100 m going spare. Will look at the Emmetti fittings - any downside you found using it?

OK if not sensible to reuse for plumbing then will put under the garage to collect dust for 10 years then throw away ? Or maybe will think of creative uses! Though on the positive side - screed done on 4 floors with no floating pipes or other drama - always an anti-climax after few weeks of work getting all ready then covered up in screed within a day.

So the UFH is in and subject to freezing weather not freezing too much I'll have my screed down tomorrow ? Assuming that goes to plan and we don't have a mini-drama of frozen/bust UFH pipes/fittings I'm wondering what to do with the large amount of extra pipe I have from the UFH. I used Wunda 16mm can this be easily re-purposed for my H&C services? I had my design based on Hep2o but may change that if this Wunda pipe can sensibly be re-used but if it means buying tools and faffing around there may not be much benefit so would be good to know what's involved in re-using this in terms of fittings for 16mm similar to the planned Hep2o

Many thanks @markocosic most helpful. I've gone and bought a couple of swan neck penetrations kits which seem well made, if expensive for some moulded plastic. seems like that will be more than enough. They are demountable so for now I can install this with a duct running down to a service cupboard and a drawstring taped inside for later use. Will cut some sections of PIR to fill in the tubes to avoid ventilation losses etc in the meantime. Will check with my electrician as mentioned earlier re cable prep to ensure safety/compliance. The detailing on the single ply seems to be excellent and they can install a well made section to cover this and weld it to the existing membrane so although penetrations are not ideal I'm OK with this based on what I've seen so far

Transferring a discussion from another thread as may be useful for others and easier to find here @pocster thanks for your msg: For ufh I have solus actuators on each run . Then a heatmister ( I think ) wiring loom with fibaro switches . So zwave turns on the fibaro switch ; which opens the actuator - the wiring loom sees this and starts the pump . Heating !! ? z wave for lighting kind of works ! ( z wave not 100% reliable ) . Aeotec sensor detects movement in room and triggers zwave din rail switch to turn light on . If you need more specific’s just ask ! Just ordered 2 new aeotec sensor 7 - see if they they improve the reliability/ delay between a light coming on . Homeseer scripting does the work I tested out a Fibaro Home Centre 2 (HC2) now they have the HC3 so will investigate what else that may provide. The most important aspect of HA will be lighting control - in the main this will be from a wall switch to activate a scene. An important feature for me is that there will continue to be some basic functionality in the event of an IT drama so plan to use wall switches connected to the smart modules. I need to decide now the plan for the smart module positioning - either at the light switch or in a service area on DIN rails. So my pros/cons on this are: Modules at light switch: Space may be an issue where we have triple/quad switches controlling multiple circuits with a smart module per circuit - maybe can just place modules in wall outside of the backbox ZWave connectivity - in theory this should be improved with the distribution of modules but if we do have a connectivity problem it may be hard to resolve - house in mostly concrete/solid block walls. Modules in a service area: More future proof if wanted to have a big change over should be easier than going to each switch location/allows a different type of system with centralised controller Will look more professional - may matter if we ever sell Cost is a pain if we use those nice Fibaro module holders Probably looking at 50 x modules + then 50 of these which adds 50% to the price ouch Zwave connectivity - could always put a HC3L (cheaper slave controller) in the services area to ensure good comms to zwave modules Could have a bit of a hybrid approach as the lighting designer suggests using RGBW 0-10V to control the dimmer modules on LEDs which he would prefer (need to see if that actually work like that) so could put some smart modules in a central location and a few in back boxes. We'll also have some sockets that will help with the mesh network for any battery power things like sensors - some areas will also have movement triggers. So - what am I missing re smart module positioning?

Thanks will start a separate HA discussion then and will tag you to avoid taking my own thread OT ?

Ta @pocster am also using Zwave so the server is OK. How on earth do I get that my HA Server to then provide input to the UFH controller? Was planning on not necessarily integrating HA and UFH but could be an option. On a separate note - did you use ZWave for lighting and if so, did you put switch smart units at each switch point or in a central area??? I need to make my mind up now on this I was thinking mainly to keep it fairly simple and thought could just run long leads on temp sensors from each control zone back to the UFH controller but (obviously) a bit in the dark on that.

I'm almost done with the UFH pipe install - screed on Tues!!! Thinking about options for UFH control - I have a wunda setup with Wilo pumps in a reasonably well insulated house. I don't want on-wall room thermostats/controllers, want to have them in a service area on each floor. What is he best way to get room temperature back to the control system to control the actuators / pumps? Wunda provided some in-floor probes but I wasn't planning on using those unless it's essential as using a heat pump with tiles so temp would be hopefully about 35 degrees c. Not sure what use knowing the floor temp would be so thought could re-purpose these for hiding in the walls but seem to remember some talk of in-wall temp sensors but can't find a thread on that so any advice appreciated

Could you insulate beneath the beam and block? Blown beads? No idea how effective/how much airflow you need to maintain etc

Thanks again, great info which I hadn't seen covered on here before

OK thanks for the info, I was maybe a bit carefree as in my camper I have a couple of full size panels on the roof and didn't consider the greater power/risk of more panels on the house. 12/24V DC doesn't trigger the same anxiousness as dealing with 240V AC. Why is running this down behind plasterboard riskier than running AC cables the same way - they don't have any extra protection. Will check with my electrician and make sure he's happy with the protection/routing plans anyway.

Great thanks will run 2 x 6mm cable down to elec room with other cables 80 quid now to save hassle in the future seems good value