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So what's the state of play? Has planning permission actually been granted, including a condition requiring to sign a S106 agreement? Or just an indication from the council that they would grant permission subject to a S106 agreement? If it's the latter then you could push for the former - to my mind that's then 'full planning permission' as any permission is likely to have unmet conditions (and so some risk) at the point a lender makes their decision. Alternatively, could you ask the seller to enter into the agreement on some terms that protect them financially in the event you withdraw? The potential loss of that fee plus bond may be less than the cost of unsecured bridging finance until you have an interest in the land. Perhaps you already have some sort of agreement in place to cover the risk to yourself if they withdrew.

Try to give yourself a realistic feeling of what 2m headroom will feel like. You could get a double bed sheet or something larger like a tarpaulin and pin it off the top of a door stretched tightly to something similar height like other doors across the room. Or stand on your bed, but that may feel more spacious cos you'll tend to look down to space that won't be there. Only you can really weigh up if it's worth it. Things I'd consider are: 2m will be usable but may not feel comfortable; you could spend a lot for a conversion that doesn't scream 'luxury master suite' to future buyers How much first floor space will you lose? Do you need to make an existing room smaller to fit the stairs? Maybe a children's bedroom plus a study in the loft works better? Lowering the ceiling at least makes the job a bit less disruptive - the new one can go in before the old is ripped out It may well not add as much value as it'll cost, but if you're there a long time it's giving value every day Is raising the roof an option? Permitted development rights were extended to include this subject to some conditions

We're using the Fibolite 7n. When handling they're much more robust, feel more like a dense block than the thermalite 7, but still a decent weight and u value. Temporary timbers have held with frame fixers into the blocks very well.

A non material amendment to add solar is almost certain to pass. If you want to cost effectively improve your SAP take a look at Waste Water Heat Recovery (WWHR) . Pretty easy to install (on the shower waste pipe) and add without drastically changing other plans

It's intensifying the breach because you're greatly narrowing the field of view out of that window (be honest it's not the view you'd want yourself from either the window or their garden) I agree with @DevilDamo that doing this in two bites may be the likeliest avenue to get most of what you want. 3m PD first hand then applying separately for anything beyond, but you've got to be able to make that 3m extension work in it's own right in case you struggle to get permission later. Have you talked to this neighbour? Would they object to a larger homes compliant extension? Did they object to this one?

"Five bedrooms all ensuite" has a great marketing ring to it, but I'd prioritise whichever will work for you living there. Also I think most people buying a house that size would expect at least one to have a bath in it. Three bedrooms without any built in wardrobes doesn't sound so great though so I think you'd want to try and relocate those. If you don't like the external look, I wonder if you could fit a fake pane or similar in the middle and run the cill through

Residence 9 do a 44mm triple glazed in a deep frame and rate well for air permeability. They're expensive for uPVC though and if you want a custom colour even more so.

Clarify with your architect whether the sizes are also to meet percentage limits of glazing using simplified model, or whether it's only for guarding. If it's guarding when open then there are compliant guard bars that can be fitted in the reveal, or consider switching to dynamic modelling which may give you an alternative without some windows having to be fully open at night. MVHR doesn't help when using the simplified method for Part O but it will if you use dynamic modelling. Summer bypass mode is bringing cooler outside air in. (We squeaked through on simplified but were getting quotes heading up to around 1k for dynamic modelling on a small build)

Sorry you're having trouble. I'm very anti PIV in older houses. The idea is you're replacing the moist inside air with drier air from outside, but how is all that moisture supposed to get out? Sure some via trickle vents, but in an older draughty house a lot will be pushed out through the structure via lots of little gaps cracks and holes, so your pushing moisture into the fabric of the home. I much prefer dMEV - continuous extract ventilation. You're still replacing moist air with drier air, but now you are drawing all the moist air out through the extract ventilation, and the drier air in through those little gaps etc in the fabric of the home, so pulling moisture out of the home. These also have humidity sensors so they will automatically boost when you're creating more moisture through cooking, drying washing etc. Cheaper to install than the damp specialist's solutions too. Breathable plaster, paint, insulation, render are all important too and we've done that on a renovation too but it's expensive to take on, so I'd start with reasonably low cost options like dMEV and also turn the heating up a bit and see if things start to improve.

You've not mentioned why you're considering this route? I looked briefly at it as it seemed seductively easy to get a roof on but building in masonry, very tight tolerances so little adjustability and most importantly cost weighed against it (seemed a huge gap between the cost of the panels and a whole roof even supply only). I was surprised to learn it's still classed as a cold roof and so needs ventilation above meaning you need counter battens above for example so the build up isn't quite as thin as you'd think either.

Try units and appliances on only the window wall and the 1340 wall opposite so they're left and right as you walk in. Then maybe on the facing wall you can have something that folds out. Fridge, sink, WM on window wall. Cupboards either side of cooker on 1340 wall. All with cupboards above

(Unfortunately your pre-app advice has probably reduced the sale value somewhat) Seek permission for a solar farm maybe, including a couple of outbuildings?

If you don't want to play the long game you could put it on the market as possibly suitable for equestrian use etc and include an overage clause in any sale (be up front about that). You're likely to get at least some interest from self builders and local developers, who may be more willing to take a punt on an expensive push for planning than you are. If you sell, you save yourself the maintenance and realise some value now, with the possibility of a future windfall in future. Downside is losing control of what happens to this land you're next door to. Maybe it'll be left to go wild, maybe it's future development will spoil your enjoyment of your own home.

I see where you're coming from but the strips can't be even slightly wide or they'll compromise tightly fitting the PIR which is difficult enough anyway. Then if they're a bit narrow any gaps will mean they're not doing much. Thermally, 75mm between then 25mm insulated plasterboard over would better reduce bridging and also mitigate any gaps where you've not fitted the PIR tightly between studs. If you do go the strips route I see there's a Jackodur board that's rigid XPS without the tilable face (that you don't need)

Your neighbour's already given you a shopping list of changes the planners requested last time (to the original application) so they'll surely be raised by those same planners again (you might want to redact the neighbour's name here by the way). Definitely get your planning consultant or architect to attend as they're likely to be able to give much more policy driven 'clarification' as needed (read up on the protocol of site visits) Fortunately (for you and your future home) you're in an AONB, but unfortunately in planning terms there's more outstanding natural beauty without another house in it, unless of course it'll be your own! So you need to show how your design is exceptional (a very high bar) or do all you can to minimise harm. (You could for example suggest limited removal of permitted development rights to address concerns like building over the garage in future)

You've a challenge ahead building in this weather. As others have said make sure all fresh brickwork is well covered, you'll want to try and keep the cavity covered too so your insulation isn't drenched. We've used cheap tarpaulins for this and it's a battle keeping things in place with high winds. Also, make sure your bricks are covered on site so they're dryer when laid or that water is eventually going to push a lot of salts out of the bricks. I'm a bit sceptical of winter mix additive, be cautious of your builder pushing to work in too low temperatures. If local sites around you aren't laying, you probably shouldn't be either

Have you ruled out insulating below your existing timber floor? You'll be able to fit far more insulation. It sounds like you're already raising your existing floor level a fair bit with both ply and 10mm flooring and something in between, is that going to cause problems elsewhere? Including the 25mm insulation you linked would mean losing overall best part of 50mm headroom throughout, including all the doorways and make your bottom/top stair a tripping hazard due to uniform height. On a positive note those dense foam underlays like sonic gold are very stable and do a great job of deadening sound (have used under a floating floor before now)

Agree with fixing into the rafter tails, somewhere up by your scaffold board in second pic. Looks like you could use something like Brett Martin BR043Cl and screw into the end grain

@Russell griffiths I was literally typing cavity tray when I saw your reply. @BallyT you should be able to see weep holes all along the lead flashing over your upstand. Is your upstand insulated? Presumably you've some firrings to add a reasonable slope to this flat roof as well

It's tough making decisions with the clock ticking! You'll be spending a lot of money on both the refit and the boiler though so if you're very undecided pushing back the install at a stage where you're not letting the plumber down last minute may make sense. If pushed, I think boiler backing onto the long wall looks a bit more flexible, narrows the room less. Is there any scope for moving the doorway? If it was more central on that wall you could put the boiler cupboard top left behind the swing of the door. (You might have to squeeze past it if the boiler has to be installed before the door can be moved!)

How about building some integrated storage along the wall below the window and hiding the pipes in that?

Where does your boiler condensate drain to? It's a lot more water but maybe about to drain there? Perhaps another option is shower where the bath is now and have a free standing bath beside it, longways facing the window Alternatively, based on your last pic, you could think about having the sink between the bath and toilet, all the drainage is on one wall

No idea of suppliers in the SW but we'll be using Viridian in roof panels. UK based and been around a long time, they supply a number of UK housebuilders and are now owned by Marley so hopefully a good chance of replacement availability in future and good flashing compatibility with common UK roof finishes.

I'd echo this. They're now effectively building a replacement dwelling and don't have planning permission to do so. Your friend needs to take legal advice on the subject of CIL but a possible upside of this is that because they don't have planning permission and haven't lawfully commenced, they won't be liable for CIL at this point, and assuming they eventually get permission will then benefit from self build exemption.

How about carrying the rear dormer through across the whole width? That would either let you fit the staircase as you mention to use as a room above the workshop, or alternatively give the house a bigger upstairs - push bedroom 3 over the garage and you could have a galleried landing right around the stairs, plus additional space (another ensuite say) where bed 3 is now