Sparrowhawk

Exactly. Obligatory Heat Geek article: https://www.heatgeek.com/hot-water-temperature-scalding-and-legionella/ I chatted unofficially to our heating engineer, looked at our hot water usage (daily turnover %), and keep our UVC with a target temperature of 47C (range 45-49).

I'm more a theoretical type but I'd be more than happy to come up and stand and point at things while others lift and fit the Sunamp. I can even hand people the right tool at the right time..!

Welcome back @Jeremy Harris, nothing useful to add to this thread but I wanted to say I have learned a heck of a lot from your posts on the forum (and still getting my head round some of the more technically inclined ones). Thanks for all your input over the years.

If you remove the baseboards, have a look along the wall-floor joint with your thermal camera. You may find there's a little draught coming up there which you can fix without removing the cupboards. Also if you know where the penetrations are, a multitool will let you cut an access hatch in the back of the cupboards to get to them. The damage can be hidden by gluing a new hardboard back over the existing one (trimmed to size) so future buyers won't know there's any damage.

Is there somewhere in the ViCare app to see the daily starts? I can only find the total under Diagnostic Information

And keeping the UVC gives you options when the boiler needs replacing. You can go for a 4-pipe boiler (different temps on HW and heating circuits, don't know what they're really called but we're getting great results with our new one), a heat pump, whatever. With only a bathroom and an en-suite, if your boiler can put enough heat into the tank to reheat quickly you can downsize it a bit if you want to save weight in the loft? Though that they doesn't play into heat pump etc in the future...

"How to manage contamination of the home" Do you have lots of people spending hours in your house? As in, have you quantified the risk? I would look at good ventilation and air changes as your baseline strategy, and if you have a busy area consider an air purifier. We're thinking about adding one to my wife's home office as she sees little germspreaders children for hours every day and anything that may help us stop catching their bugs is worth a try.

I waited until Christmas dinner was over in case I messed anything up... not the fuse you were expecting: Took the front off the extension consumer unit and here's some photos. Arrow shows entry point of cable from other fuse board.

The washing machine and cooker are still on so I haven't been able to isolate the extension yet, but this is the board at the meter end. "MAIN SWITCH" is the cable running to the extension consumer unit (up the cavity, under loft insulation, down the cavity) Looking in the extension, the cable feeding the consumer unit looks the same size as the one running to the electric cooker. The cooker manual says Total load at 230V is 14.8kW and the previous home owner who installed the cooker has written "(32 amp cut out). Cable? (6 1/2mm sq)" in the manual.

We have 2 consumer units in the house. After the electricty meter there's a box where the cables split, one to the main consumer unit, and the other via a long white cable (in photo) to the other side of the house. This is a photo of the cable linking the two. I'm trying to estimate the current it can carry before we make alterations. Does this look like 80A cable?

@nod is right, but so is everyone else. Require receipts, no cash payments, and keep records. https://www.gov.uk/report-tax-fraud

For those who extract to the outside, it would be helpful if you detail how you make the external vent airtight when not in use. And tell us if you did your airtightness tests with this taped over or also tested with it in its 'closed' position to confirm how airtight it is. A couple of options have been mentioned in threads but not all in one place, and it'd be helpful to group the options together.

I'd be pretty pissed if I bought something that all over the website shouts "Full MODBUS connectivity" as a feature... and then you can't use it. The only thread of interest I've turned up yet is https://community.home-assistant.io/t/heat-recovery-mvhr-integration-titon-beam-in-ireland-mechanical-ventilation-with-heat-recovery/454942/9 using the RS485. Different models but may have helpful links.

As the caption says this is "from below". If you've enough space to get under your ground floors then this is a nice approach - though cutting and taping/gluing a bit of membrane at the top of each joist across the floorboards must be a pain compared to draping it. In my house if I have 20cm below the bottom of the joists I count myself lucky!

Welcome to the forum @andeebee. I asked a similar question a while back and the replies may be of use. I've bought the membrane and insulation, but haven't installed it yet. Partly because other jobs have taken precedence, but also because the first area to insulate has a staircase and stud walls built on top of the floorboards, so it's an absolute pain to lift them!