JackofAll

They go up to 300mm AFAIK.

They look the business but imagine they'll be alot more expensive than osb/marine ply when taking all openings into account, anyone else use them instead of osb/ply?

My understanding was with a well insulated, high level of airtightness house, with MVHR, heated by ASHP with UFC, is that having different zones has no benefit to energy usage. All the heat is contained in one envelope, and the MVHR will balance the temp across the rooms. The heat in the UFH is soaked up across the entire concrete slab during the heating season. The ASHP is running continuously, using its inbuilt weather compensation and night time set back temp. I think my target water temp is 28c, for a room temp of 22c, according to the LoopCAD output. This makes sense, just wondering what your leccy bills are like if running continuously.

Sorry to piggy back on thread but am interested in check reveals, am thinking ply box(300 cavity) butting up to outer leaf, windows stepped back few mm to allow for compriband or some such tape with windows strapped to box and box fixed to inner leaf like Iceverge did(correct me if wrong) or window sits proud of box with tape contacting outer leaf? is there a better or perhaps easier method?

It's mad, been told by a plumber that it would be madness to have on single zone unfortunately I wasn't smart enough to explain why it may be better to do so.

Just curious Nick where mesh is overlapped x 2 or3 what was the solution as the top of pipe would be very close to finished floor level. Having trouble opening loopcad as it's an exe file, haven't tried on laptop yet thought only phone so will see.

What are the benefits of running the uf heating on a single zone, have seen it mentioned here but been told by others that it's mad and you need more than that?

Where did your pipes run from manifold John, in floor or through ceiling?

You could well be right, though wouldn't that be alot of wall chasing and on a 4inch block wall with pipe insulation fitted I would imagine the chases would need to be deep?

This is what I thought the lay out would be like, 1 cold feed from pumphouse in a 4inch wavin pipe coming up in kitchen under sink then duct to plantroom from kitchen(run hot back through same duct)(do i nned a seperate feet from pumphouse direct to cylinder in plantroom), duct from plant room to 2 bathrooms which happen to be side by side containing hot and cold. If I was to use services channel as previously stated could I just t off for each station(toilet, sink, shower etc?)

Avoid what, the services channel seems like a good idea

Thanks John, see below from Kore, will look into loopcad.

Can someone explain to me where the hot and cold feed are run in on an insulated raft, thanks.

OK, so recently tried to price an all in one package(Ashp, tank and uf heating kit) but the crowd won't quote as cable tying pipes to mesh in insulated raft does not meet their spec. Just to clarify I mentioned that we didn't need pipe tracks when submitting the plans as we were cable tying to pipes. Was subsequently told that you can't do that not just by supplier but also by two plumbers? Now I believe these guys have never worked on insulated raft before and are just used to clipping to insulation. Did check out Kore raft fitting instructions and they say that pipes are not be be attached to mesh as it's structural in purpose. The 2 plumbers mentioned that fitting pipes in screed will be quicker to heat up than in concrete. Am confused.

👍fair play, thanks for that. Silly question, I imagine that 5kw is enough to heat the floor but would it be big enough to also heat DHW? BPC showed a 9kw heat pump on their MHRV quote.

Thanks Terry, not sure if that's applicable this side of the pond, am open to correction though.

Had a look, didn't see new ones but 2 secondhand ones.

As it so happens I contacted BPC for a quote for MHRV system and they sent the attached quote for A2W as well not sure why, maybe just chancing their arm but it wasn't as expensive as I'd initially thought, though the cylinder is mad money. So It can be plugged in direct to UF Terry?

Plan is a Kore slab, as Jamie said earlier the initial capital outlay was putting me off and most trades over here think every customer has a saddle on their back, what Iceverge said. What's an MSCE?

Thanks lads for your replies.looks like I need to research more. From hearing some of the prices people are paying for A2W installed here I was like feic that, seeing the willis heater set ups some of you have installed was thinking that it's quite simple(like myself). Currently spend 4/4.5k a year on heating/electric, so circa 1.5k would be a saving.

Planning on using immersion/willis/ pv panels for heating water in new build. PV fitted with an eddi connected so was thinking the solar could get the water temp up to whatever first and immersion/s could finish off to desired temp. Has anyone done this?

Spoke briefly with a guy from truss company, reckons I'd get 500mm max with raised tie(depending on pitch)from wall plate, alternatively could go with trusses up to kitchen and finish as a cut roof. Sent on plans, said he'll get back to me. Perhaps cut roof may be best. Am hoping to pump with cellulose as above image. Will see what he comes back with and can share that picture,thanks again.

Will look into raised tie trusses, thanks.

Interested in why you would ventilate naturally when going mad on insulation, anyone else go this route?