JackofAll

It's approx 12m, the job ain't finished so the Soil pipe is just sitting on the AJ.

So the soil pipe is higher than the inlet on the AJ(see pic). Was thinking of cutting hole in riser and sliding onto pipe but due to the moulding of AJ there are three flat spots with the bigger one obscured by the pipe. Would be afraid of waste falling and sticking on this. There is a 1/60 fall on soil pipe am afraid by fitting a bend further up soil pipe and connecting in at the inlet on the AJ that the water may leave the waste behind. Pipe run is right to left. Any ideas?

Thanks Nod, few tilers looked at it and said that i would need to get the heating up and running (which it now is) 1 deg a day for a few weeks and allow to cool for a week before tiling could commence, it's now set at 30 degrees and tbh will never be set that high again(21, maybe 22 if she gets her way). Floor is down since July 23. so it will be no harm to do the same thing again once the tiles are down, thanks again.

Hi, Starting @ 20deg temp (lowest setting)what's the max I need to hit to see if any cracks appear before shutting off to allow cool and tiling prep can start? Bear in mind it's 6 inches of concrete.

Water heated via ASHP, will get a reducing valve to be safe, thanks.

What purpose does the pressure reducing valve have? Will try the bucket tomorrow, thanks.

Checked tap(albeit a make shift one) at full bore that was reading 3.9bar though that was the middle of the day, will try it morning and evening too. Is it OK to plumb toilets handbasin etc direct from main?

Is a water storage tank essential, currently connected to mains and hope to drill a well before the year is out. Had initially planned for pumped tank in plant room but after checking the water pressure (3.9bar) just wondering if the tank is now needed. I know if the mains were disconnected you would have the storage tank bit that wouldn't last pissin time in our house. Any ideas?

The top layer of steel looks awfully close to the surface compared to ours

Thanks James, will check with spark when he's back in January and plan to reroute the cables

Had to look up derating cables, actually the mains cable 25sq is running through and cables for the ASHP. Spark said not bout derating these, is this now an issue?

Made a bubu when running ducts, not enough space to run the two pipes in one duct including insulation so now may have to run either the flow or return in a duct that has cables. Would this be OK considering it'll one length no joins? Alternatively we'd have to to go through the walls which I'd rather avoid unless necessary.

Just looking at the heat geek page as I needed to interpret that table. Am a little smarter now than when I woke up, thanks John. So there is no need for the buffer as per table. Re the plumber, it's what i thought, but God knows how long we'll have to wait to get a new guy this time of year.

Thanks John. 9Kw. There is a buffer that came with the kit, though not sure if he'll be using it. If he is, it will be 9/10 m from the HP. Again 9/10m to cylinder from HP. I believe there's a pump on the unit whether or not that would be fit to drive the water around a 1900 odd bungalow I've no clue, Imagine another would be required if not?

Plumber has given me a list of items to get for second fixing house. Among them is 1"acorn piping and lagging for the flow and return to outside. According to heat pump installation guide it states 28mm copper or 35mm if using plastic. I've pointed this out and his reply was, usually use 1"acorn but your heat pump could be different. I know he's never fitted a monobloc HP before only split systems, but am concerned as he doesn't appear confident in comparison to other trades that I've dealt with. Should I be looking further afield?

Won't go wrong with Hilliard and his team.

My preference would be to tile the whole floor and sit kitchen on top rather than tiling under units also don't fancy having to lift/move stone worktop to accommodate tiles if moving the units is an option. Looking like fitting kitchen first is the only option, thanks @Conor @Gus Potter. BTW the decoupling matting is .85mm thick, so not really that thick.

The floor is concrete, been poured since August 2023. no cracks to date but have been assured that it will crack when heating is up and running. I guess as the tiles are costly may be foolish not to use matting? the guy suppling the tiles thinks we're mad to use it(matting) even though would be supplying it,go figure! you could well be right re. tiling early.

Anti crack matting used?

left out a vital piece of info, we haven't even installed the ashp yet, probably 5/6 weeks away.

300mm full fill knauf dritherm 37 all good,(so far) 🙂

Sorry for long winded post. So have been told that UF heating would need to be run for a couple of weeks to find out where the cracks will form (if any) in the floor before tiling can commence. We've no power connected and have no idea when it will be. Currently under pressure to get kitchen in as we've postponed it several times due to hold-up's at various stages of the project. Anyhoo, a few different tilers that we've spoken to recommend not covering whole floors with decoupling mat but only cover where cracks are in floor. But am thinking if we covered whole kitchen floor with decoupling mat it wont matter where cracks form(if any) as the membrane stops cracks cracking tiles? and kitchen can be fitted. Anyone forsee any issues?

Currently living in house, no electric and no water connected, we're a solid 19 degrees first thing every morning, If you built a passive house probably wouldn't be too concerned about UFH on either floor. just use slippers 🙂

Take it you didn't opt for the pre plumbed panasonic tank with built in buffer.