zoothorn

I've dug away @ plaster & measured very accurately the existing frame, including to the underside of its timber sill. It hits bang on.. 47" x 24-1/4". So it seems made in inches, & as its so bang on these figs, unlikely to be a made-to-fit frame Id think.. would anyone concur? Not that it makes much difference, but perhaps the reason why its set so far into the inside plastered reveal.. 3/4" (lhs), and 3/8" (rhs). So to get my new upvc frame dims, 47-1/2" x 25" ?? (I'm sure Co happy with inch figs.. makes more sense to me this way). That equates into atrociousheathen mm's, to an additional: 10mm each side, & 6mm each top & btm. thx zh

Yup thanks Peter.. Im attacking it today, will do a pic to make sure of what to include later. Just added an inside pic, post above this might be useful. Thanks, zoot

Hi dpm.. Ive googled upstand, but cant quite figure if I have or not.. not quite on board ( again!) but if it refers to inside: If this helps? I have a 1" softwood cill this side, I trimmed flush to the wall.. masking tape to id it. If this wall is tiled for eg (plan is simply a small basin in here, utility room, & a cheap worktop around it & covering the washing machine rhs of basin) then I sppose trying to keep this makes sense, if possible, few tiles ontop of it & reveals maybe..

Hi Joe.. that was my next q thanks for that titbit. Ok I wasn't including the sill in my 1150 dim.. so attacking the inside reveals today & will remeasure.

Hi Peter.. ok will do. Yes was always gonna use a cill.. just have this nice piece of hardwood door frame 'cill' that just sits around you see. Less plastic better etc.. but ok will ditch this idea then. 600 x 1150 Peter. Thx zh

Hi Joe.. right, got it yes. So my idea of using my timber door cill.. had no merit at all then, was pointless? Or would it still have merit, if it saved me money assuming I might be able to ask the Co if I could not have the upvc cill then. Or is this idea still pointless, because I either must have the upvc cill to do the job, &/ or it inherently fixes to the frame. I dont know Im still a bit lost tbh.

Hang about.. what does a new upvc window actually come with sill wise-? Might the sill be part of what I buy? If so Im stillnot on board with your info tho!

Hi Joe, I'm still not on board. The sill I was referring to, I think I put a pic up, was a door threshold/ sill I have left over ( builder put a slate one in, so this is redundant).. a hardwood type. I was wondering if this could be used, just cut down to a quarter its length or whatever it might be. So the holes thing.. Im not in board with. I think you said it could be used, if, the holes thing was suitable. As usual.. Im totally lost sorry. zh

@joe90 you replied with the very info I needed as I was posting the reply above! Ok great.. at last I can move forward, so I'll get the damn thing out from the inside. Right so I'll redo my chip away to find the old frame width plaster side. All the consensus you see was saying its normal to be done form outside you see.. which meant I was stuck. As its only a utility roomthe plastering can be average standard, it's fine in my book. The sill thing though, ie whether my door sill could be cut down & used or not: I cant quite understand your rain run off point though, could you elaborate for me? thanks zoot.

@joe90 joe a few posts back, you said "I'd know which Id prefer to remove" ( referring to me asking whether the window is better replaced from the inside, or the outside: so you were referring specifically to the removal of either inside plaster, or outside render). But I don't know what your answer was. Im trying to figure out now if in lieu of what I mention in the post before this, replacing the window from the inside makes more sense. I just cannot figure this job plan out at all here. Were you thinking of the dust created by saying "..." this maybe? Thx zoot

Hi chaps, I'm really stuck on this. I'm back trying to get a plan on this damn window. But it's not straightforward. The reason: the deep position of my existing frame & the large ammount of render ontop; so to measuring what it is, isn't so easy.. let alone to remove all the render to dig it out, & then to replace it: a daunting prospect for me. This 80's extention replicates the old cottage reveals, by setting them in 5" in you see. If it was set in shallow, say 1" like Onoff's eg, I could chip away & easily find the old frame width, & not worry too much about replacing the render as it doesn't ammount to much. But, here my render's 3/4" deep, ontop of the frame all the way around. So alot of render was applied in this 'outside reveal' to achieve a contoured set-in, 'old' look. Thanks, zoot.

Ah yes I get it, good point markc. They only need to open inwards onto drive. Ok now to choose my posts & view some clips of building them into the ground. I have cement & sand.. I guess that's the basis of what's needed-? thanks zh.

Front view. Between markers = 12 ft. So, Id lose 1 ft if I went 8 ft / 3 ft pair, (although I liked the " 25%" small gate idea like PeterW suggested). As I have to back-in, already often seems a bit tight between my two bushes for some reason on occasions.. constricting to 11 ft would cause problems. So I have no choice than go 6 ft / 6 ft I think. But do I have enough room to put my posts in I wonder?

Hi there joe.. thanks but you wouldn't believe the limited no. of shops we have out here, there wouldn't be one for 100 miles. No unfortunately I have only 1 place/ option here for timber gates, as they'll need to be delivered. Farm place. Ok just been/ they have 6ft gates.. & two will fit perfectly in fact. I think I'll just have to simplify this job by getting these, & hanging straight/ via normal hinges & put up with (or rejig the gates low side) the gap below, or over time maybe fettle the driveway flatter. The tilting hinges.. I just don't like Ive decided: they look too weirdto me. And if one is set 1 ft high anyway due to the lateral slope, then this one doesnt warrant odd hinges anyway. One gate rising weirdly, the other normal? Hmm.. I don't think so.

Hi dpm.. its an idea, but I do want to have a pair of timber gates as they do look much better. But its certainly the cheap option. thanks. Zh

Hi markc.. that makes alot of sense to me. Good thats a starting point. But with the limited choice out here, delivery etc, Ill be fluking it if I find a 75/ 25 or any combination the correct size tho, will g9 see what's available 1 st up then.

Hi Onoff..thanks, this is what I was sort of visualising ( but lhs gate the smaller one). So does this shape mean a bespoke made-for gate though? Or a standard one modified? i have no idea. I think maybe start by getting the two posts in, & consider from then on, or I will never figure out a plan beforehand. ( no, the gates will not stop a cat.. but might prevent it, even if half the time; & gates will not stop someone opening them, roaming onto my property & putting things on/ removing things either.. but might prevent this too/ a deterrance of some form in both cases: you wouldn't say though "well theres no point putting up gates then", there'd still be reason to put them in).

I have no problem with dogs roaming on, none. There are no roaming dogs here Ive not seen 1 in 5 years. My disgusting human n'bors roam on, bringing dog faeces (within a bag because noone's going to handle dog muck.. & placed where they choose to deposit it: 4 years of this: but thankfully stopping on a dime at the exact juncture of a police visit to this creep couple, oct last year, about these faeces appearances. On a dime the deposits stopped: so I think you can deduce the blindingly obvious from this as to who has been responsible for it). Humans and cats the gates are to prevent. I cannot stop them tho throwing dog sh* t over the gate ( they've thrown before, my car covered in it one morning).. so gates are not a solution: even if its 8 ft high solid, barbed wire topped, the cat might be prevented, but if the creeps are still intent - which their behaviour's proven them to be harrassing me for 4 yrs in all manner of ways & continuosly- they can still throw it over, tucking in behind a hedge to negate any cctv I might have forked out £500 on. So In a way I can never win with these utter creeps.. unless one night I just chance upon one of them with a handheld infrared video camera at 3am. Unlikely. Unfortunately though I had a theft: coinciding precisely with the last sudden appearance of dog crap mid drive (within 3 mins I was out of sight of my window overlooking drive- so I was being monitored by them & an infuriating opportunistic brazen nip-onto-his-drive-again happens- both something appears/ something disappears) garden equipment goes missing from my (open) car boot. Mid drive, within minutes of the dog sh*t appearing. 2m away from it. Wow, what a coincidence, I wonder who could possibly be responsible. But of course I cannot prove it. And they know this, it's part of their 4 year game to infuriate & harrass me. Sorry.. have to get this infuriation off my chest now & then. Zh

Hi markc. But how can I forget about the slope l to r? If I put a pair of standard gates in, I'll have a 1 ft gap below the lhs gate. And half a foot gap at the join. I cant see this as being correct. If one purpose of the gates is preventing cats strolling on.. I need them to be fairly decently placed relative to the ground. I mean a 4" gap perhaps. Is this just not possible then? Until I can get my head around this lateral slope, I can't think how a pair of standard gates can be used. Unless their shape is retrofitted, or something. I dont know. All the advice is relating to the slope running towards the gates, rather than perpendicular/ laterally, across the gates. I can understand the funny hinges negate a slope running towards the gates, (fairly simple to understand: & my slope this way isn't perhaps needing such hinges being fairly shallow, certainly not needied at all on the lhs gate post, if this gate is hanging a full 1 ft off the ground). But the lateral slope.. seems to be much more of a problem. thanks zh

I was thinking the same.

I cant understand your idea as my gates couldnt roll up the hill though. Like the clip above (which does look peculiar I must say, perhaps not hugely so in palm beach fl there.. but rural stix wales?) my gates open in roughly ' up' along this axis too. But they also have a slope perp to this, - across - both closed gates. Actually it's this slope which is the more problematic. i mean if its 45* slope.. then a pair of similar gates willnot be suitable. But 15*?

Ah yes of course, & it's true Ive never seen gates with my 'weird' oblong idea, but with a pronounced slope offset, the one gate left high n dry (here lhs looking from drive pov) will look kindafunnylookin. If its a small 25, Id think very much so. Im thinking this. And it might be as Ive been in the sun too long, yes. Either make new gates (from tannalised stuff which seems cheap but do they have 3x1 or whatever a gate is mostly made of?) shaped along btms to follow the drive slope (so the H of the lhs gate is say a foot more than house- side upper slope side). Or rejig standard gates along their lower sides. Or do something else even more brilliant? thx zh

Hi Peter, Im just back trying to figure a plan out. But Ill need to open both even 25/75 to get a car out. Plus the longer a gate is, the more problematic with regard to its shape, clashing with the ground or not fitting ' correctly' when closed with the other one. It is not quite as straightforward as to just use these hinges. The gates shape (closed) , both lets just say a 60/40, always struck me as as much of the problem as clashing with the drive opening in (which the odd hinges can solve). Because both gates need a 'trapezoid' (or somesuch fancypants term for an oblongy not-a-rectangle) shape to them (thankfully only one lower side needing to be 'odd', the other three sides being a normal rectangle).. it really fugs up my tiny, birdlike-small, brain. Whether Im on any track thinking this, or its a load of 'utter balls' I've no idea either! thanks. Zoot

Thanks, I'll look into the idea.. but I don't have too much choice out here, which might mean timber ones.

Hi Markc, I think I can get my head round the basics of how the gates hang from their posts, with these unusual hinges.. but what's holding me up, is trying to figure out the shape of the gates, relative to the ground, & to each other (being very differently shaped, due to the slope - across- both of them. The strange hinge idea, relates to the pair of gates when closed, sitting level - across- both of them. But I have a slope. If this slope was perpendicular to those in the strange- hinge- examples, I could probably have cracked on. Thanks, Zoot