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zoothorn

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Everything posted by zoothorn

  1. Hi Ferdinand- just googling 'farm pedestrian gates '. pics sort of the idea, but not quite on board with wording. Budget- Ive yet to even see what a gate of the sort I'm after actually might cost. I still need the words IE driveway gates? wood entrance gates? farm pedestrian gates?
  2. Right onto my next job! solid double 60/40 driveway wooden gates. Uk usually pine, or fancier oak, onto round 'king' posts I assume concreted in. I've looked on YT but can't find any clips of these ubiquitous gates, oddly. I think my wording wrong? anyone know what wording I mean, so I can do a thread? cheers zoot schmooter.
  3. Thanks again chaps. Seems very solid.
  4. No you're right.. tho nothing to do on roof soon. i hate these godawful ugly dishes. don't do tv since moved here: Im done with adverts/ crap sold at me & the embarrassing bbc1 etc now you see.
  5. No can do.. too high for me to get ontop the extention, let alone reach up to flippin dish innit. I'll get one of these adaptors tho & attack it from bank side, when I'm brave enough. Cheers guys. job (render) done.
  6. @Onoff sensible suggestions chaps many thx.. had wondered if a roof adaptor thing might exist: ideal, but for storing the sod (no shed yet/ ltd space in or around side of hse). Be great if I could borrow one.. not poss. Yes 2-tier Lyte (great tho flexes worryingly in middle at ~ max extention!). Just looking at my pic I wonder: if I put ladder from the bank close by, RHS of extention, extend it to the ridge under the f'ugly dish/ wrap some big cushioning around ladder top to protect ridge tiles-? Will get an adaptor, when I have shed sorted- a job down the line you see. Onoff I made you laugh at last then! cheers zoot
  7. All seems solid thankfully- a bit pale 'gluey-white' in areas oddly, but all feels hard & stuck firm. A quick Q whilst here. I need to remove a sky dish on the apex of my gable/ soffits, & throw it in the river. Only a normal 2-tier ladder to hand. I can get to it safely enough I think by shimmying along my 1st floor kitchen (80's extension) roof, a leg aside, sloly along the crest. Will this be ok loadwise? Im a normal (& fit) 12st.. not a big fattie. Or, a better way to get at it without a hooky-over roof ladder? I saw my builder hopping about my main roof one story higher, one hand on chimney so I think the load of my arse ok.. but he is smaller. Thanks.. zoot.
  8. Ah I think rain showers forcast for tmrw.. so will it be ok say 48hrs done, to leave exposed as it is until a good dry day?
  9. Its all newhomes fault we went onto pg3..! Yes not ideal, but 2 coats of good masonry paint on this bit of exposed brick: Its just too high up for me to safely render it.. it takes proper arm effort unlike painting so not happy with safety.
  10. @Declan52 been reading up on times before I can masonry paint my render (3 days to 3 flippin months!?).. what's the consensus here? godammit page 3 already.. thx zoot
  11. Yup understood Declan.. I've got my fingers x'd its not rub-away poor mix I managed before. Btw how long until earliest its rainproof? [christ am I gonna get a job done.. in 2 thread pages? woohoo!].
  12. All understood Onoff.. but really its the only one I could use, up there on the ladder, doing all with one hand: the bigger flat trowel I couldn't get into the tub anyway & 2 hands needed: not safe. Its far from a pro job this ever going to be: its contoured below the brick upper floor, so getting it flat never was the plan- I just need it to stick, get into the cracks & gaps, which my curved point trowel was ideal for. I just couldn't use a corner of that big one to force into my tricky in-outs. Its like my chopsaw for my pine forraged 5" dia logs: on paper wrong tool yes sure, but in practise actually -the- perfect tool for the job. thanks alot.
  13. Yes Onoff guaging trowel.. the only one I have confidence to use tbh. pointy's a pain, huge mofo scares me, grout float's for wusses/ metal tiling one not right. Ok brush seemed ideal for the smoothing- great recommendation & just in time: got warm sun bang on it alas/ drying fast now with cold dry wind too: not ideal. But I dare not touch it again I'm sticking right here/ done. thanks alot.
  14. Ok PeterW understood.
  15. I couldn't use a float, just a trowel (one with the rounded tip, not the pointy ones) so had to try & smooth thus far inch by inch. Its contoured/ not a smooth flat surface, this would be nigh on impossible for me to acheive, so it goes in & out where the brick faces had badly dmgd ~3cm in. Its got sun on at the mo, & a dry wind too.. shall I spray water on to stop it drying too fast? seems like its drying quick.
  16. Thanks all for replies Declan, nod, newhome, PeterW, Onoff et al.. I'm a bit ashamed to show results after the help, apologies! its not great, but best I can do up my ladder one handed. If I can smooth it, it might pass as just acceptable & stay on for a while. A tough lesson this for me, a D+ only. Ive got to figure out this consistancy thing as I don't know what's going on.. scrap tests on a free day.
  17. Onoff.. Ive whacked on the mix: I found very tricky to A) get right consistancy/ still no idea or confidence here (slightly slid off trowel.. when it stuck only a tad of movement 45*,, it just felt way too dry) B) didn't seem to adhere well, half fell out C) i just cannot do 2 coats (Im WAY up a ladder/ for me its high, & at edge of wall wind coming in).. so just has to be one coat.. for safety if anything. Ok so I can see it going off slightly, but its got trowel marks over, even smoothing off as best I can. Its not appalling, but it aint good.. & marks will be clearly visible once masonry painted. So Id like to get smoother. Can you please just refresh me as tp what I can do now, to smooth it, & when to do so.
  18. @Onoff great ok now I'm on board with 5:1 water:pva to add to the mortar, as well as, to the pre-film-coat. As a poor man's 2nd to sbr or lime I'd imagine but I have to crack on today (no sbr/ jewson not open & screwfix sbr is £70 a gallon).. as rain's coming in tmrw am/ & a changeable week so I MUST do am today. bugger wish Id understood this y'day. Ok as you say jfdi & if falls out then a learning step. Im just worried about the exposed flunky brick & the rain. I'm sure my builder who rendered big areas, similar blown brick face, around the side.. just did one coat/ no float smoothing even. prolly cos I was easiest to hoodwink / no idea it needed a scratch-coat 1st. Is it imperative I do 2 coats?
  19. Hi Declan, that's super clear with regard to the steps to take cheers (altho not understanding the 'few handfuls of dry cement' onto the pva:water film suggested by nod.. dry? how do I apply dry cement to this?). So the steps I have info on. So from this info- I either add a plasticiser, or a waterproofer (assuming SBR's primarily a waterproofing agent here), or PVA as a waterproofer.. was that the suggestion, or have I got that wrong. How then if I had chosen lime... would it be waterproof? I mean a render's prime function surely isn't to look smart n tarty, its to stop water getting to the brick underneath it.
  20. Damn right.. I do. Still do. My builder says the thing to add, to my mortar.. is lime. But this hasn't been mentioned yet on here. And I don't know what the lime is for (I forgot to ask) plasticity, waterproofing agent? I dont see how a powder addition can have waterproofing properties. So are you suggesting this SBR stuff is the waterproofing addition to the mortar (or solely to do with the primer coat film). Is the mortar mix I have, waterproof already? If SBR or pva.. then that's regarding the primer coat/ film, rather than the suggestion for adding to the mortar.. yes? I'm in a complete fog here going round all these places in town for well i don't exactly know, asking whoever I can for clarity, & I still can't tell what I need! Can we go back a step. I have 2 jobs to do. A primer coat (which I'll use wood pva for 5:1 with water).. then a render. I have the mortar mix tub. A) do I need to add anything to my tub? B) if so, specifically what?
  21. I'm totally confused as to the addition to put in with 4:1 sharp sand/ cement. Plasticiser, sbr, waterproofer.. & a myriad of different brands & prices. Coincidentally my builder just popped in, said to render this I need 4:1 sharp sand to cement.. with a bit of "waterproofer". But just make it a bit sloppier so more spreadable. Also said I can use my tub mix of mortar. But what is this "waterproof" stuff? is this "sbr" (which says in its spiel its an additive with waterproof properties) or "plasticer", or is it something alone called waterproofer.. or are all these the same thing?
  22. Sorry another Q! Ok say I wire brush, then apply pva 5:1 water on the area in my photo. If the rain hits before I can get render on.. will this 5:1 give some waterproofing?
  23. So this SBR stuff https://www.jewson.co.uk/building-materials/chemicals/other-building-chemicals/products/CMSKA954/sikabondc2ae-sbr2b-e28093-bonding-agent-and-mortar-admixture/ is used with water 5:1 as a film alone, prior to the render? But it says on it that its an addition, to the render itself though.. nothing related to using 5:1 alone. I'm confused as to what consitutes a mortar, & a render. The main specs of this SBR says its an addition 'for mortar'.. then in the smaller specs its says its an addition 'for render'. Is mortar the same as render then?
  24. Nod hi there, Do you mean a builder's pva? (isn't wood glue the same stuff.. I have this to hand for a small 0.5 area mix). Ive then got to establish what this 'coat' consists of. What render is.
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