oranjeboom

Yes, I have an earlier model, the "eDual", external controller which is the issue as it does not rely on a heat sensor. 65 degrees I believe

I've spent a while trying to find this online, as I'm hoping to send this to my installer to see what he thinks. Is this online also? I tried looking under Vaillant also....but no.... Thank you!

Yeah, but for the BUS grant I need the ASHP to be doing the charging/heating of the Sunamp unit... Although I will need to apply to Ofgem first to see whether they will approve this setup for the grant. According to my installer... Anyone on here been accepted for the grant with Sunamp in the mix?? Okaaaay.... Can you give me any examples? I'm fairly clueless here. I'm having to make suggestions to installer and keep getting drip-fed by Sunamp to make this whole thing work. It really should be a simpler affair!

Going to buy a lottery ticket tonight....I actually had someone from Sunamp call me this afternoon about my external control unit. Essentially I just need to find a HT HP that has a switching circuit (rather than a heat sensor)...the old eDual units were compatible with LG HT Therma models. I've had a brief look at the latest LG units...not seeing anything obvious that shows whether the latest offerings work via heat sensor or switching circuit. Does anyone on here know more? Or what I should be looking for in there schematics?

Not chosen a heatpump...installer is keen on EcoDan, but no sufficient temp outflow for the Sunamp unit. Being limited to what Sunamp's list of compatible list of HPs (for the eDual): Daikin Altherma 3HHT R32 Series Ecoforest ecoAIR PRO series Ecoforest ecoGEO PRO R290 Series Phnix Greentherm R290 Series Samsung EHS HTQ R32 Series Trianco Activair R290 Vaillant Arotherm Plus However, the external controller for the eDual won't is not compatible with the above due to it's switching circuit.... So either it's me finding an electrician who knows how to adjust things in the controller or convince Sunamp of shipping me a new external controller with the compatible wizardry. Installer is ignoring my calls as he's fed up with dealing with Sunamp and has easier jobs to be getting on with and Sunamp hate dealing with the general public.

So from I gathered from my dealings with Sunamp and installer is that the controller on eDuals would need to be replaced as these have " a switching circuit which won’t be compatible with most heat pump controls as they utilise a resistance reading to generate a demand or satisfied call" Has anyone had an external controller replaced and what was the cost? I know they are now fitted internally on the Thermino models so can't imagine it's a very complex issue to provide me with an updated external controller? Obviously I have enquired with customer service, but service is a hit and miss affair and often one is quicker to go via the BH way!

I also started with a 1950's bungalow and was adamant that I could insulate with some of the available spreader boards on the market where some manufacturers sail very close to the wind with regards to having 'sufficient insulation levels' on their product. I was almost tempted, but after doing research, I just had to face reality to either stump up the money for decent insulation and work or to pay stupid bills on heating. I went with ripping up the concrete base and dug up 400mm and filled it with insulation (PIR/EPS) with a new UFH embedded into the concrete. Had some issues on the way But glad I went that way. If you only have timber, what void do you have underneath? You may not have to dig up to much to get better than BuildStd insulation levels in there.

Probably a bit much for me at this stage. KISS for now! Yeah may have to go down that route and get my electrician to fit one. Accuracy is key.

Hi all, Looking to have a temporary 'smart meter' to have in addition to the old analogue one. User has no wish to have have a 'smart meter' installed by current provider and dubious about the merits of having one. But would like to have something that is easier to read in terms of consumption used at hourly/daily intervals. I see that there was some discussion here about them a few years back, but many of these units don't appear to be available any longer such as Effergy and Owl. Just needs to be accurate (there's a question mark on current analogue dial meter but no wish for energy company to replace it with smart meter...unless it shows to be inaccurate) and simple to install, so ideally clip on to the house feed. There's obviously plenty to choose from via ebay/amazon, but accuracy and simplicity is key. I have however read that there's a question mark on the accuracy of the clip-on ones but wondering whether there's any exception to this?

So the UniQ systems all have 4 ports that would allow 2 flows and 2 returns. See fig 4.6a below in the UniQ manual v2.3. Not seen the latest Thermino manual so can't comment on how things have developed. s 5.4.1: Presume the highlighted section refers to eHeat batteries and eDual (the ones I have). The HW+i also has the 4 ports s5.5.1: The HW+i model ("heated by an external heat source (e.g. Gas boiler, Heat pump)...are fitted with a standby electric heater") has the capability of electrical heating too and yet this is contradictory again in this diagram where it states the electrical heater element only refers to the 'e' models: I imagine the inside construction of that whole range is pretty much the same (with some having the electrical heater built in some not) and that the Sunamp Qontroller is where the systems really differ, but I am sure @Nickfromwales would know more. Clearly I'm no expert on these units and that's why I relied at the time on Sunamp to confirm/advise things before the things were shipped! If they then confirm that the HW+i and the eDual systems are the same, you have to settle for that as they are the product experts. I can see why they have moved away from dealing with customers direct as I'm another one who's severely disappointed with this outcome now!

I really don't have the room for a cylinder unfortunately! Unless I place that in one the unfinished rooms upstairs and have a 20m pipe run from the DHW manifold. Could be done...but a PIA... Would they even install a cylinder (presume size-wise it would be based on bedrooms in house rather than actual occupants (1.5)?) plus an ASHP circa £7.5k grant? Annoyingly I have just checked my Sunamp units and they are eDuals (both 12) and I have checked the manual that does state "These heat batteries should not be charged by an external heat source". That contradicts what I have in writing from Sunamp a few years ago prior to shipment! Annoyingly someone at Sunamp confirmed that the Uniq HWi and eDual units "are the same product" when I questioned them on this. So now I am left with 2 units that cannot be charged via ASHP which had been the intention at some point. Not happy!

Ahhh yes, I recall they had some initial tests with Vaillant and Samsung back in 2018 with R290. I imagine the COP isn't great at 75C though. I'll have to check what PCM I have in my Sunamp units, thought they required temps of around 50C (IIRC). A 8kW Vaillant aroTHERM is £3,680 (inc VAT) but then a more complex setup and probably be well over the BUS grant. Other thought would be to use a lower temp ASHP to preheat the water supply of the Sunamp at least to say 40C, if that's possible. But strictly speaking that would not meet "full hot water demand" aspect of the BUS requirement, unless I find an installer who is willing to do that.

Bugger! Currently I have two Sunamp units, only one which is being used for DHW (other one not in use as currently low family demand for DHW). IIRC, they are eDual units and not sure now whether they could be connected to ASHP. I did consider this a few years ago, but at the time there were limited ASHP units that could deliver higher temp demands to use with the PCM in the Sunamp units).

Hi all, I currently have two Willis heaters (Read more here) providing the 6kW for the slab (proving very expensive now), I am now looking to get an ASHP installed. Question is, should I go via the BUS grant or should I source a unit off ebay and either attempt a self install or get a local fitter to install? I'd like to think that the grant would now cover the simple install! Further questions: How long does it take once the installer has applied for the £7.5k voucher? I'd like to have an install completed ASAP before the temps drop and there's a significant demand for heating in the house. The setup would be fairly straight-forward, with the heat just being fed directly into the slab, so no need for cylinder etc. Previously (2019) I had a quote for a Mitsubushi 8.5kW which also included the installation only of 2 Sunamp units (previously purchased but now installed) which came to £8,000. Presume that would have been a 2 day install at max, so imagine that realistically, today's figure would be less! I expect of course to get a much inflated price back when I go back for an updated quote with the excuse being short-supply of units, price increase etc. Self-install? So the alternative is to self install (with electrician), but would like to keep the controller KISS and the unit install itself would need to be a relatively simple to install and connect. I've done all of the plumbing including the Willis heaters (except the Sunamps) so would like to think an ASHP install is within my grasp. Worst case, I'd have to rope in a local plumber who has some experience of installs - maximum of a day I would think? Any feedback gratefully received!

If still looking, this is what I did (and still have)...

It's costing me too much, simply as that. And the occupants tend to leave it on for too long ("as it's still cold outside...") not getting the concept of a buffer. Well, currently still need to do the EWI, so despite 350-400mm EPS under slab, 3G windows, 400mm loft roll and SIPwalls in the new extensions, there is still an unacceptable heatloss. So I think I need a bit more than 6kW and have previously been advised by installers that I'd need at least 10kW. I simply don't want to go down the usual route of undersizing the unit and having to upgrade it. Presume this grant only covers new ASHP units? Can we still source new units (say via ebay) and then get MCS installer to fit (at exorbitant cost?). I scanned the BUS blurb but it was not that clear on this.

It's been a while since I was here. "Life issues"...! Been using the willis heater set up for a couple of years now, and it's proven somewhat more expensive than anticipated, partly down to the electricity price rise fiasco. So I'm now looking to replace the 2x 3kW willis heaters that I had set up feeding the manifold for 150sqm of UFH. More here on my setup: 1) Presume the feeds from ASHP will be plumbed in directly to the manifold feed and return pipes, i.e. no buffer tank? I may leave the willis heaters in-situ as a backup. Probably looking at running the temps between 30-40c for 2-3hrs per day (bit more when it's really cold). This is current setup: 2) Siting the ASHP - the closer the better, but as I'm probably looking at around a 11kW unit, these can be the 'double stacked' types like this, and rather obtrusive to have this next to my front door (closest to plant room). I could site it a bit further out (approx 9m away from entering house) out of view and lay the pipework in the french drain surrounds the whole house - If I had additional insulation to the already insulated pipework would that be an option to consider for an quicker and easier install or would the heat loss still be an issue? 3) Can't afford to buy a new ASHP, so looking to get a used/reconditioned one. What are the best places to look at apart from ebay? There are some installers who are selling older but new models that come with warranty still, but any other sources I could consider? 4) What should I look out for in a used system? Obviously need to ascertain whether it still works, why it's being sold etc. Ensure that there are no refrigerant leaks, pump works, control board works... 5) How much should I look at for an install? I'm happy to dig any trenches, get cabling in by my electrician and do any preparation work to minimise cost. Thanks in advance for your feedback/suggestions!

Hoping someone can help. Just checking the title deeds and not sure what we've got. B: Proprietorship Register: (Date) RESTRICTION: No disposition of the registered estate by the proprietor of the registered estate is to be registered without a written consent signed by the proprietor for the time being of the Charge dated (DATE) in favour of (LENDER NAME) referred to in the Charges Register. Does that reflect a Joint Tenancy (as Tenancy in Common usually starts with "No disposition by a sole proprietor of the registered estate....") Thanks in advance OB

Well, I could get away with 70-80mm and still retain the required 150mm clearance below the DPC as required by BuildRegs. Not bifolds. Just french doors that open outwards. Watertight? As in damp, or water ingress from rain etc?

I have plenty of depth to play with. The doors are still a bit too high and there's a slope in the base already. So what's the min thickness, Nick? Doors sit on foamglass. External cill will lip onto the door frame but not fitted until slab is done. Problem is that there is already a slope in the current base, so levelling is going to be an issue surely?

Hi All, Hoping to complete the patio in the next few days. Concrete slab needs a bit of levelling and ensuring slope is sufficient so will need to add a semi dry screed prior to laying the 10mm porcelain tiles. Some questions: 1) Screed okay with one part cement to three to five parts sharp sand? How long before I can tile on top of that? 2) What adhesive should I be using for the porcelain tiles? Would this Mapei Porcelain adhesive be okay? https://www.toolstation.com/mapei-stone-porcelain-adhesive-20kg/p57343?store=C5&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=s_dc&pcrid=515847200306&pkw=&pmt=&gclid=Cj0KCQjwqKuKBhCxARIsACf4XuH2yjuBtJrOJesLRv1RUFPg47RO8EjPIgKZh6OrNZAwt7-1Ysm7mJ8aAg9bEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds 3) I've also read that priming the tiles would be a good idea - anything specific I should aim to get? Thanks in advance.

Each Sunamp has it's own radial with 20A MCB on the fuse board. I'll replace the FCU's with 20A DP switches then and see how that goes. I've switched on the dormant Sunamp unit in the meantime so that we have DHW today at least - bloody expensive backup for a £4 FCU failure!! ? Thanks for the comments!

What turned out not to be the smell of dog's piss in the hallway, but instead a slowly melting FCU! I have 2 electrical sunamp units ( one is dormant as only 1 bathroom is in action and they are only used for DHW) but the other one will hit charge mode every day (usually each time after someone's had a shower). So I noticed that the area around the fuse was getting bloody hot, so hot that i have to get my thermal thermometer which read over 110 C! Each time the Sunamp unit would call for heat the smell from the FCU would get worse and towards the end it would start smoking. Not sufficient smoke to set off the smoke alarm, but a real concern that the actual fuse didn't just go pop. It's a 13A fuse in there. This is now the 2nd fused outlet that I have had from Toolstation's 'Axiom' range that has seriously overheated but never to this extent. I've got a spare Axiom FCU but a bit hesitant to put that in if it can't cope with the load. Or is there another explanation for the meltdown? The Sunamp's been in use for just over a year with no glitch. The MCB in the CPU is 20A. The Sunamp units and wiring were all completed by a SA-approved installer. Any ideas?

It looks from the pic that there's a retaining wall underneath the fence which would suggest that their plot is on level ground at the back of their garden. When they are not in / passed out, you could measure the height from the lowest point in your garden to see accurately what the height is. Have you spoken to other neighbours who may also be impacted (do they have neighbours on the other side also?). They may be in touch with council also or don;t feel as intimidated as you do. As for their shenanigans at the front of your house, I would install a discrete CCTV camera to capture any BS from them in future. You may also want to install one out the back (or even an indoor camera that you can place in a window cill if needed if you think things are getting out of hand during one of their parties). I have one of these and it's been a great little device before I install something fixed: https://www.toolstation.com/ezviz-mini-o-plus-1080p-indoor-wi-fi-camera/p59325 I feel for you! Whether you have kids or not, they should respect you and your right to privacy, sleep etc. When we were in our early 20s I'd be doing a bit of DIY in our marionette and the old cantankerous git from downstairs would be moaning at me for disturbing him at 17:30 "can't watch the news etc etc" They also accused us of other things like cigarette butts in their garden (we didn't even smoke). We were too nice to them in all honesty and should have held our ground as should you. I get on well with my current neighbour and will apologise to them if I've been making a racket and they do so likewise if their dog's been barking at me through the hedge. There's probably nothing you can 'apologise' for to get them a bit more on wavelength "we're having a kids birthday party soon - is there any day that you are working from home as it may get a bit noisey...." That kind of thing? Shows that you are a respectful neighbour etc etc. They may curb their antisocial antics a bit. The positive thing is, that the 'shed' is facing the other way - be worse if it was on the other side facing you IMO. I see all the seating is on the other side also - again, be worse if they were all against your side of the fence. If the council step and decide that they have built it too high, then perhaps you could reach a compromise (they erect a taller fence/ add trellis) rather than lowering everything their side as that will cost them a fair bit to do / aggravate them (but that's their fault!!). Good luck!

Creating a raised deck (approx 900mm above GFL at it's highest point (see corner where Muttly's standing): Looking to KISS and keep costs minimal as the composite decking itself is costing quite a bit. Obviously little point in going for composite boards if the structural deck starts rotting away in a few years time so looking at solutions that will last at least the warranty period of the composite (20-25yrs). It will be a wrap around L-shaped deck with steps leading off one corner into garden and a small set of steps down the side of the house. Will need balustrade of some type with perhaps partly glazed (keep the wind at bay from the adjacent field) and wire balustrade. No abnormal large loads such as a jacuzzi but I'd still like to achieve above imposed load 1.5kN/m2 specifications. These are the plans so far: Post fixed into ground with concrete. Postcrete calculator suggests 1 bag every 10cm deep...so if I do go down as far as 700mm that's 7 bags per post! And I need quite a few posts! Ker-ching @£5/bag!!! So just mixing plain concrete will be a bit cheaper! Most 100mm x 100mm posts are good for 15yrs so I'd have to take extra measures to make them last beyond that and could try the 'postsaver'. I did also consider using ground screws that are drilled into the ground. Quick, but still pricey with 28 screws costing be around £1000. Concrete decking posts would be fine also but due to the shortage chaos caused by (take your pick) the unseasonly bad weather/COVID/brexit/climate crisis/Napoleonic wars/demise of the USSR are difficult to get hold of (and are pricey!). Working from the Trada span tables, I have gone for doubled-up beams to support the 400mm centred joists. The decking boards I will probably go for are fine with 500mm (https://www.eva-last.co.uk/item/infinity-iseries/ ). Ledger board will be affixed to the slab of the house and concreted 100mm structural timber posts into the predominantly clay ground. Plan is to place a concrete block in the hole with bitumed leg of each post on top and then fullt concreted to above GFL with postsaver. QUESTIONS! 1) First question I have is will 700mm be sufficiently deep? That seems to be the standard to aim for. 2) One thing I don't understand is the 'beam size' in mm in the Trada tables. Perhaps someone can enlighten me! Using the Trada tables, I plan to do the following: Joist spans of approx 1.94m using 45x147mm Beam span at 1.8m using 45x170mm Any major holes with these plans? I'll probably get someone to construct the main deck for me but have seen some shocking decks that 'experts' have thrown together so I want to ensure that whatever is erected is pretty much in alignment what I have planned for.