oranjeboom

Found someone else having the same issue...hammer and flathead. I may try that now...

Yeah! Just need to find some metal tube...and cut.....or buy 'the tool for the job': https://www.showerspares.com/search/crosswater-cartridge-removal-tool-sc51/?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-uK0BhC0ARIsANQtgGMYv_HizFVrDNcccRhlClDiRepyu7W9-F0FC5qt9o42sva-oDrCJGwaAvwsEALw_wcB

Ahhh yeah....here we go....nut has to be removed....

So after 5 years use, the water's luke warm in the shower and all other outlets are bloody hot. I've got a water softener too, so it's annoying that the valve has still buggered up. It's a Hudson Reed unit and I know that the valve is this one: https://www.divapor.com/spares/showers/thermostatic-cartridge/sc50t20-crosswater-thermostatic-cartridge-valquest-sc50-t20-and-sc50t20-m.php?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-uK0BhC0ARIsANQtgGMIRbE611NVsfsByzD4XmXFkvYy08D1bFRQCgdIYfe25_D5WMzCvjwaArD1EALw_wcB The issue is that the tiling is very tight and I'm hoping that there's enough space to get something in there to dislodge the ring (see below). Due to the depth of the ring behind the tiles (2-3cm) I can't get the angle right for a screwdriver and light hammer tap. Is there a special tool for this job? I've contacted the manufacturer and they're telling me a spanner should do the job....how you're supposed to get a spanner in there I don;t know! Thanks in advance!

Thanks ! I think I may recall reading about your DIY approach on here some time ago, but do you have a link to that post by chance? I'm hopeful that installer is supplying my insulated pipe as I've seen the crazy costings!

So after much faffing around with suppliers, Ofgem and installer, it looks as though I now have a date for my heat pump install (Vaillant Arotherm Plus). Now looking to prepare for the install so looking to dig a trench to determined ASHP location and shortest route to house. Due to the nature of driveway (just to left of hedge, see below) and the line of sight from the gate, the best place visually is indicated by spade). As it'll create a bit of an eyesore and also being adjacent to front door, locating it right next to house is not possible, so I will locate it 9m from the nearest entry point (see rough tape measure line below). Pipework will then go up the wall 2.4m.. through soffit, into loft...1m along the insulated loft...then down through ceiling and into plan room (another 3m), so approx 15.5m in total. The exterior wall is still to be covered by EWI at some point in future so that will cover all wiring and pipework. So, I have a few questions: How deep should trench be dug? 500mm? Armoured cable necessary or can I just use standard cable in conduit I just bury it below the pipework with warning tape over the top? Obviously heat loss is an issue so wanting to minimise that if I can, so I was going to lay the insulated pipework ontop of some EPS leftovers and add some expanding foam prior to filling in - worth it? Any other ideas? Thanks in advance

The extensions are SIPs 175mm walls, 200mm roof iirc. Again, no SIPs option so he went for timber. The older part of the bungalow is cavity filled. MVHR...no idea what default values he went for. Yes, he was friendly enough and took his time to look at all the options. But yeah, no idea why the 3G is just 'good'. Proper German windows too! May contact him to see why!! "Computer says...."

So had my EPC survey done this week as part of the BUS grant application for the install of an ASHP. My last EPC was a "D" before renovations and extensions with oil boiler and rads. But not this time!! Now after spending ££££s on 3G windows and doors, 400mm of slab insulation, UFH, 400mm loft insulation, MVHR, 2x Sunamp units, low energy lighting, cavity insulation, solar PV, I get an "F" for "failure"! "I've done well over two thousand surveys to date and this result has been the hardest to comprehend." was the assessor's comment. All a bit ludicrous how some of the 'better' newbuilds up the road achieve a "B" when they probably perform much worse on heat loss I suspect. I believe the result all came down to the fact that I have 2 Willis heaters doing the UFH...deemed as inefficient as it was only enterable as an electric boiler. As for the Sunamps, again the software could not compute those. And it also does not cater for 3G doors! I bet if I was totally self-sufficient with PV it would still label the endeavor as a failure due to the fact that it's all electric!! Not looking to sell the house in the near future and assume I could get a new one done after the ASHP is installed...not that the rating bothers me. Well...I'll wait for when the EPC $hit gets replaced with the next improved $hit... Looking on the forum, be interesting to know how you achieved your rating @Russdl !!

Yes, that's who I've been buying from in the past and they still seem to be the best for pricing now. I've got a discount code that gets the price down to 62p/kg. £120 for 24 blocks inc delivery. Some of the ebay pricing is ludicrous!

Just bumping this up.... Looking to replenish my salt block stop... Just about to run out. Best price I have is £2.60 (per block including delivery). Anyone seen cheaper than that? I've checked a few places, but that appears not a bad price. Anyone in East Kent looking to buy a sizeable amount and willing to share a pallet of the stuff?

"The eligibility rules to get a grant are changing. From early May 2024, your property will be eligible even if there are outstanding insulation recommendations on the EPC." .gov site Should help some folk out there. Though not sure why you would not insulate if it's feasible/practical...

Hi Terry, Looks as though I am too late - I would have been interested in the working unit as mine are of the same ilk and I probably would have driven up to collect. Alas...

So this is what the installer has come up with in tandem with Vaillant (see PDF). Still awaiting for Sunamp to review and approve that. Sunamp also came back with this suggested fix for the external Sunamp control unit (which I have questioned whether this is their 'final' solution as the wording seems a bit haphazard!): Vailant and sunamp schematic (1).pdf

I've just tiled the fireplace inset with 'special' tile adhesive that cost a leg and an arm. And a sore back. Whilst some folk on the interweb state to use special heat-proof grouting also, there are others (e.g. https://stovefitterswarehouse.co.uk/pages/tiling ) that state there is no need and to just use the standard grouting. It'll be approx 3mm grouting. 10kW log burner. Any real experience on here with people using std grout or should I just go and use Vitcas grout or similar? TIA!

Yes, I have an earlier model, the "eDual", external controller which is the issue as it does not rely on a heat sensor. 65 degrees I believe

I've spent a while trying to find this online, as I'm hoping to send this to my installer to see what he thinks. Is this online also? I tried looking under Vaillant also....but no.... Thank you!

Yeah, but for the BUS grant I need the ASHP to be doing the charging/heating of the Sunamp unit... Although I will need to apply to Ofgem first to see whether they will approve this setup for the grant. According to my installer... Anyone on here been accepted for the grant with Sunamp in the mix?? Okaaaay.... Can you give me any examples? I'm fairly clueless here. I'm having to make suggestions to installer and keep getting drip-fed by Sunamp to make this whole thing work. It really should be a simpler affair!

Going to buy a lottery ticket tonight....I actually had someone from Sunamp call me this afternoon about my external control unit. Essentially I just need to find a HT HP that has a switching circuit (rather than a heat sensor)...the old eDual units were compatible with LG HT Therma models. I've had a brief look at the latest LG units...not seeing anything obvious that shows whether the latest offerings work via heat sensor or switching circuit. Does anyone on here know more? Or what I should be looking for in there schematics?

Not chosen a heatpump...installer is keen on EcoDan, but no sufficient temp outflow for the Sunamp unit. Being limited to what Sunamp's list of compatible list of HPs (for the eDual): Daikin Altherma 3HHT R32 Series Ecoforest ecoAIR PRO series Ecoforest ecoGEO PRO R290 Series Phnix Greentherm R290 Series Samsung EHS HTQ R32 Series Trianco Activair R290 Vaillant Arotherm Plus However, the external controller for the eDual won't is not compatible with the above due to it's switching circuit.... So either it's me finding an electrician who knows how to adjust things in the controller or convince Sunamp of shipping me a new external controller with the compatible wizardry. Installer is ignoring my calls as he's fed up with dealing with Sunamp and has easier jobs to be getting on with and Sunamp hate dealing with the general public.

So from I gathered from my dealings with Sunamp and installer is that the controller on eDuals would need to be replaced as these have " a switching circuit which won’t be compatible with most heat pump controls as they utilise a resistance reading to generate a demand or satisfied call" Has anyone had an external controller replaced and what was the cost? I know they are now fitted internally on the Thermino models so can't imagine it's a very complex issue to provide me with an updated external controller? Obviously I have enquired with customer service, but service is a hit and miss affair and often one is quicker to go via the BH way!

I also started with a 1950's bungalow and was adamant that I could insulate with some of the available spreader boards on the market where some manufacturers sail very close to the wind with regards to having 'sufficient insulation levels' on their product. I was almost tempted, but after doing research, I just had to face reality to either stump up the money for decent insulation and work or to pay stupid bills on heating. I went with ripping up the concrete base and dug up 400mm and filled it with insulation (PIR/EPS) with a new UFH embedded into the concrete. Had some issues on the way But glad I went that way. If you only have timber, what void do you have underneath? You may not have to dig up to much to get better than BuildStd insulation levels in there.

Probably a bit much for me at this stage. KISS for now! Yeah may have to go down that route and get my electrician to fit one. Accuracy is key.

Hi all, Looking to have a temporary 'smart meter' to have in addition to the old analogue one. User has no wish to have have a 'smart meter' installed by current provider and dubious about the merits of having one. But would like to have something that is easier to read in terms of consumption used at hourly/daily intervals. I see that there was some discussion here about them a few years back, but many of these units don't appear to be available any longer such as Effergy and Owl. Just needs to be accurate (there's a question mark on current analogue dial meter but no wish for energy company to replace it with smart meter...unless it shows to be inaccurate) and simple to install, so ideally clip on to the house feed. There's obviously plenty to choose from via ebay/amazon, but accuracy and simplicity is key. I have however read that there's a question mark on the accuracy of the clip-on ones but wondering whether there's any exception to this?

So the UniQ systems all have 4 ports that would allow 2 flows and 2 returns. See fig 4.6a below in the UniQ manual v2.3. Not seen the latest Thermino manual so can't comment on how things have developed. s 5.4.1: Presume the highlighted section refers to eHeat batteries and eDual (the ones I have). The HW+i also has the 4 ports s5.5.1: The HW+i model ("heated by an external heat source (e.g. Gas boiler, Heat pump)...are fitted with a standby electric heater") has the capability of electrical heating too and yet this is contradictory again in this diagram where it states the electrical heater element only refers to the 'e' models: I imagine the inside construction of that whole range is pretty much the same (with some having the electrical heater built in some not) and that the Sunamp Qontroller is where the systems really differ, but I am sure @Nickfromwales would know more. Clearly I'm no expert on these units and that's why I relied at the time on Sunamp to confirm/advise things before the things were shipped! If they then confirm that the HW+i and the eDual systems are the same, you have to settle for that as they are the product experts. I can see why they have moved away from dealing with customers direct as I'm another one who's severely disappointed with this outcome now!

I really don't have the room for a cylinder unfortunately! Unless I place that in one the unfinished rooms upstairs and have a 20m pipe run from the DHW manifold. Could be done...but a PIA... Would they even install a cylinder (presume size-wise it would be based on bedrooms in house rather than actual occupants (1.5)?) plus an ASHP circa £7.5k grant? Annoyingly I have just checked my Sunamp units and they are eDuals (both 12) and I have checked the manual that does state "These heat batteries should not be charged by an external heat source". That contradicts what I have in writing from Sunamp a few years ago prior to shipment! Annoyingly someone at Sunamp confirmed that the Uniq HWi and eDual units "are the same product" when I questioned them on this. So now I am left with 2 units that cannot be charged via ASHP which had been the intention at some point. Not happy!