haythorn_1

What counts as small though? Definitely will, thanks!

Looking to order a UVC soon from Telford for my ASHP setup. Does anyone know when you would use the hi-flow variant versus the normal one? https://www.telford-group.com/product/tempest-heat-pump-pre-plumbed-simplified https://www.telford-group.com/product/tempest-heat-pump-pre-plumbed-simplified-hiflow

I was looking at this recently too. If you need to put copper in between then another adapter it adds a lot to the cost. Might as well buy the Hep2o official ones. Have also been looking at these then buy an adaptor for the size you need. https://www.bes.co.uk/riifo-plumbing-manifold-3-4-x-1-2-valved-outlets-4-port-blue-levers-27473/ anyone else tried these or see a problem? nice they also do red and blue ones!

Where did you buy the fan coils from?

not sure either of those are certified for airtightness. Probably would work but not been tested for it. For most tapes you need to use a primer on parge coat as it tends not to stick well. There are some exceptions that can go direct but they tend to be more expensive. I have been using a combo of me315 or PHS Modbau Internal Airtight Window Tape depending on whether I need it plasterable or not. Works out at ~£20 for 25m

interesting, I have a similar setup. It’s not a great thermal bridge! What is your cavity filled with? mine is with mineral wool and at the moment you can see it between the steels. I don’t see what the benefit of adding PIR is here

I just did this earlier in the week. It’s quite easy to find the rafters as Dillsue says. Plus you can feel them through the felt.

I was looking at this recently at it seems GSE don’t supply the new larger landscape trays to the UK. I ended up just choosing on roof rails instead.

Did you end up doing this? I'm at a similar point and trying to decide if it's worth putting acoustic insulation in the attic floor joists. The attic will just be used for storage and MVHR, but maybe the insulation will prevent noise being transferred between bedrooms on the first floor over the walls?

Although my preference would be for in-roof panels and it doesn’t seem as though all the GSE landscape modules only work with panels that are max 1120mm in height. Yet all the panels I can find are 1134mm. Does seem a minefield getting everything to fit together!

What do you mean by flush? GSE don’t make in roof mounting options large enough so would have to be on rails.

Good point! That actually might be better. Foolish I didn’t think of that!

Currently researching whether it’s worth it to put solar panels on the roof on my house whilst we extend and re tile it. The height of the roof from the ridge to the rafter is ~3.6m so I don’t think I have space to put 2 rows of the most common size panels which seem to be about 1700mm tall. Is there any reason why I can’t install the larger panels that are available which seem to be ~2300mm tall so would fit better. These seem to be mainly focussed on commercial installations. example: https://www.powerland.co.uk/products/aiko-comet-1n-625w-n-type-abc-72-cell-silver-frame-gen-2

Will do! Currently just building it up on the test bench so will be a while until I can test it fully.

Was fortunate timing for me as I was just in the process of ordering a dimmer from Mike, so ordered the relay too.

Thanks all. I may not user cavity closers but instead use an airtight membrane to seal it with a j bead supporting the plasterboard. In which case i imagine that will be thin enough i don’t need to factor the membrane. I had looked at other suppliers that would do the measurement but the cost was considerably more so I decided that it was worth the saving to take that risk. I may use a professional company to take the measurements who would also be doing the install that the supplier recommended.

I’m planning on using a supply only window supplier so I need to measure the openings myself. The openings are completed in my brick and block walls but how the cavities will be closed up has not yet been decided. My expectation is that I will use cavity closers. Can I measure the opening sizes now without any closers installed? I presume the difference they make is minimal?

Interesting. I would have presumed you would do the whole thing. Does it make a difference what kind of internal wall it is? Say if it’s a cavity?

I’m surprised this isn’t higher given the clips you have on instagram of your air tightness tape detailing. Not trying to be negative and is still very good, but the other figures you have are basically passive house level. Was this intentional?

Thanks @Gus Potter Very useful. Plan for windows is triple glazed aluclad - so they will be quite heavy!

Yes it is

thanks. Will ask my SE. I think it will be a lot of weight.

Looks like this if it helps.

I’m not sure how concrete lintels would work, can you get them made to the shape of the bay? my bay design doesn’t have the brick pillars that you sometimes see, which I guess you could then use normal straight lintels.

I have 2 double height splayed bay windows that I will need to install 4 lintels. Wall construction is brick and block with 150mm cavity. Is there any suggestion on the best lintel to use? I see catnic and others can make a custom lintel to order with posts, but they seem quite expensive. There's a house being renovated on my street currently that has just used a steel plate cut to the shape, with no posts. Seems much simpler although I imagine is a significant thermal bridge.