LA3222

As an aside, I have the emporia vue monitor on the go. Not sure how accurate the readings are that I'm getting, I've pulled the data and will look at Total consumption from that vs the meter in the cabinet to see broadly speaking how accurate it looks. Regardless though, the manufacturer seems to think this vampire load is standard and acceptable. Whenever the system is not running, the compressor will be receiving this said power to heat it. This is not something that can be placed on timer.

Absolutely. The reason I went Ecodan is it was considered on here to be one of the good ones. Not happy with this vampire load. When I have the full complement of solar up I will probably care less, I certainly would have looked elsewhere had I known.

It does. That is the model I have.

Well, as an update - I had emailed Mitsubishi technical about the issue and just recieved a response (fairly quick tbf). The ASHP requires constant electrical heat to the compressor, so it does not run cold after being idle for a while. This is what the additional power is – and is totally normal. So, it is apparently normal. Jeez, £500 a year energy consumption for an idle white box. I have followed up with 'how long before a call for heat kicks in does the compressor need to start warming up' - might get the thing on a timer of some description to cut down in this idling.

I did read somewhere about talk of resistance heaters to keep oil etc warm so it's ready to go. But 200W. That makes my eyes water just thinking of when my fixed tariff ends in June🧐

I think this monitor is not too bad. I have 18 individual CT clamps for seperate circuits as well as for the total power used. Helps to drill down into what's going on. So far after a crude bit of 'process of elimination' it appears that something on the outside unit is the culprit. System turned off I.e. standby or whatever and the drain is still there. Turn the breaker off and consumption dropped to zero. Turned breaker back on and powered it all up, the 200W comes back. Turned the isolator off at the outside unit and the consumption dropped to zero again. Turned back on and reappeared. So. What the hell within the outside unit is using 200W all the time when it's doing feck all. Just sitting. A big lump draining my electricity😒

To be honest I haven't scrutinised the system too much. Got a few panels on the roof now so paying a bit more attention to what is consumed and where. Seems to be a constant 200W according to the emporia energy meter I have installed. We seem to be using approx 11kWh per 24hr at the minute, that 200W is a big chunk I'd like to eliminate so will need to dig deeper into this.

Not really paid much attention until now but it appears that my Ecodan ASHP is consuming around 200W in power 24/7 when not in use. Seems a tad bit high for my liking, is this normal? Interested to hear from others to see if this is standard or an issue at my gaff!

You mention 100mm from top of gully to dpc and then 60mm. My understanding is the patio will need to be 150mm below dpc?

Is it that hazardous? As I see it there are two wires going from inverter to panels, but when they need crimping just don't connect them up to owt. Cut to size, crimp whilst unconnected and then its a case of connecting all the MC4s together?

Ha, auto correct...should have said aux. Looks like you solved it - as you say, easy once you know!

See my post above...its in the author settings within the control menu

I've looked at my ecodan a few times and the conclusion I've come to is that the values are made up so I don't look at them anymore.

What I meant by the comment 'to achieve the 0.11 stated by kingspan tek' is that in order to achieve 0.11 u-vakue with kingspan tek, I would need to add an additional layer of 70mm insulation internally. 142mm tek is something like 0.18 on its own (off top of my head). There is another piece to this puzzle you haven't considered bud. Cooling. Adding that layer of insulation internally will also increase the decrement delay of your build - maybe not by much, Ultimately it may be enough to help. Summers are getting hotter, people tend to think of insulation only from the keeping heat out perspective, there will be times where keeping heat out is also of value. One of my concerns at the minute is to see how living here in the summer months work out. I'm hoping that the decrement delay combined with ASHP providing cooling on both ground and first floor will be enough. Unfortunately, we have a sunroom which will gain heat via solar gain but we shall see! Also, 35p/kwh may be low balling the cost after 20yrs?

@SuperJohnG don't overthink it bud, it's as easy as you say, tape and seal away to your hearts content. Need to make a hole, make a hole then seal the membrane to the pipe/cable etc with tape. I had loads of silicone left over from the SIP people so the missus went around and ran a bead along every panel to panel join - worked really well, (I did it all pretty much one man band), where the soleplate meets floor etc - every join. Not too difficult as the panels are big so not overly onerous. Seal the membrane to the floor slab - I ran a bead of orcan f first, pressed membrane to that then taped with the tescon. I did bottom sheet first and used the double sided tescon stuff to hold it in place, also chucked a bit of the tape on here and there. Lap top sheet over it then sealed top to bottom. Get the battens up in good order else things start sagging - a day or two is generally OK. The Double sided tape holds it all taught to the wall without having to staple the shit out of it. The battens trap it there. I did my 180mm mvhr ducts after the brick skin went up - stupid but the way it worked out generally because I wasn't sure exactly where stiff would go. I havent used any proprietary grommets etc to seal, just orcon f in places and tape. My air test was 0.24m3/hr/m2 - it's easy enough, just be reasonably diligent. I'm sure I have holes and bits I missed in the membrane easily done but I looked at this as a compound effect. SIP is good for airtightness anyway, silicone the joins = better, fit insulation and tape all joins so another layer, fit vcl and seal up - in my head, cumulatively it would give a good result and it did. I used 38mm battens and 47mm back boxes - useful if you have a lot of two way switching. I do, wanted most lights to be switchable from multiple locations and some of the back boxes are horrendously clogged up.

Agreed. I feel.like we have been drip fed a partial story on this thread. I'm curious as to why the installer who revisited to confirm there are no issues seems content all is fine. If you look at the graphs he produced they indicate a total daily production of 590kWh for July - so 19kWh for the day. With a 6kWp system this number seems to suggest that current production levels are what is expected? More to this story than we are being told.

Have t read this in depth but the key word which jumped out at me was 'shading'. How badly does this affect your system? That installer seems to think the numbers are correct when adjustments are made to account for shading?

Anyone got any bright ideas on how to wrestle a 160kg bath into the house between me and the wench? No level threshold so have to hoof it up and down over the damn doorstep, then pish the damn thing into the house! This is going to be a worse task than trying to lift and fit an 80kg velux 3m into the air between us - missus only weighs 50kg so as you can imagine, it was a bitch....and we had two of em! So, suggestions on the bath...roll it in somehow? Wary of damaging it - any suggestions are welcome.

Nope, submit your own - that's all I did and they didn't question it.

@SJP try turning the pump speeds down. You can enter the advanced settings on the controller, think you hold the circular button with lines down for few seconds. That then put you into the advanced side of the menu tree. Go to the settings bit and look through all the bits in there, think the commisioing wizard bit is where the pump settings are hidden.

This is broadly where my mind set is at. The only thing I would.add is that most appliances have timers now so I'm thinking that if we stagger them to come on during the day and work that around the ASHP for heating/dhw we will hopefully consume most daytime generation and nighttime is covered by batteries. Think I will end up with around 7.5kW spread across three phases. Need to look into batteries as I originally parked that idea as a future problem.

Absolutely. I have bought a monitoring system to see what I use and where, it has sensors on 18 of my outputs - the major ones. I'm burning through roughly 34kWh a day at the minute. A big chunk of our use is the ASHP and then cooking followed by washer/dryer. If I can dump all that onto PV during the day and charge a battery for nighttime use it should bring us right down.

Supply and demand will.almost certainly lead to price rises if everyone gets in a flap about energy costs and start buying. I'm in a bind as cash poor and lots to do - spanking a few k on pv that will just sit on a pallet for a year or so is something I could do without.

Yep, just fitted the trays and then covered over with some osb which is pretty battered now! Only 8 panels on the side roof of the house, could they put more on due to the complicated nature of my roof. The rest (about 16 panels) will go on the garage when built. I'm concerned about PV price rises so may buy and store because the garage is a long way off yet - bit of a conundrum as it commits cash that I could do with elsewhere.

30p will be here before long