LA3222

Pretty sure that is the strip shown in my photos above. I'm sure they were included in the schedule when I placed the order with rationel.

It's the join between the frame of the door and the frame of the side panel. So the join where you have nothing, with my install they put this gasket in, not sure if it's silicone too as I wasn't watching the install. However my ACH came out at 0.2 when tested so whatever they did, it does the job.

I've got a very similar configuration in my sunroom:

I was away for a few days last week and turned the DHW off, heating and cooling was already off. The MEL cloud shows:

Yes, around £20/30 and half an hour of messing around should give a definitive answer.

I have no idea whats going on. When i isolate the outdoor unit the power consumption drops to zero. The controller is still on so I can only infer from this the FTC controller and other gubbins draw next to nothing. The second I provide power to the outdoor unit, pow, the vampire load is back. I'm pondering going to the effort of sticking a meter in between the breaker and ASHP as final confirmation that what the energy monitor is telling me is true.

Bloody hell...this is a thread resurrection. I will dig some pics out, makes a big difference having the spill over space, we would have been buggered without it. It was originally just going to be a deck and roof so can keeps dirty shoes etc outside, chucking some walls up were a no brainer once I thought about it. Then a light and sockets! I'm no joiner, lots of screws, then a few more!

I have the same model as you. I have the ridiculous standby losses going on.

That tallies up with my figures. I removed the monitoring system I have from all but the ASHP supply and used the main ct clamp which goes on the incomer to make sure it is true power or whatever being measured. Still seems to show 200W plus being used constantly. I'm away for a couple of days soon and intend to kote the main meter readings before and after (turning the fuses off for as much stuff as I can) as a final confirmation of this constant power drain. I find it odd that some ecodan uses have identified this drain, discussed with tech support who confirm its normal but then others with the same model claim they don't see the same power drain. Strange.

How the hell.do you get a sealed air cavity when you have all those rafters to work around. Snake Oil.

I only gave a cursory glance to the quote, but a couple of decades to recoup initial outlay - really. Nah. Will recoup it a lot faster than that, especially when prices go up again in October.

Not patronising bud, a good idea. Videos on here demonstrating the 'how' of things is actually a good idea. We are all too busy just getting on with things so at best we have pics which can be used to give an idea when explaining something. Pro videos can only be a good thing for future members looking to or in the midst of building.

This is one of those topics where 'in my opinion' folk like to say how their house is so good they don't need it - bit of a look how big my schlong is statement. Yes, in a passive house the first floor will generally be warm enough without, but the outlay is minimal and the benefits worth it imo. We talk about oversizing ASHPs to make them work less hard etc, why wouldn't you over size the 'emitting' surface within the house so it is easier to warm up/cool down. When folks are insulating their houses to the hilt and making them airtight and sticking loads of glazing in, keeping cool is a far bigger issue than warm. The use of an ASHP in cooling mode seems a go to approach on here to help in that sense, surely having twice the surface area when using the ASHP in this manner is one of the key points in favour of installing UFH upstairs. For context, my own build is 0.1 U Value for walls, floor, ceiling, triple glazing and 0.2ACH. Keeping warm is not an issue and was never going to be, I put the UFH in upstairs for other reasons, keeping tiled floors 'feeling' warm and helping to cool in the warmer months.

I have wet UFH upstairs and down. I turn it on in the colder months, the way I see it is that 280m2 of UFH vs 140m2 is a better way to warm the house. Also I wanted to be able.to heat all the ensuite tiled floors. I have them set to a temperature probe in the floor rather than air temp so the floors are nice and warm when showering etc. The other reason I wanted both is when I turn the ASHP to cooling mode. My logic is again, that 280m2 of loops will cool more effectively than half that.

Should have planning for it and pay council tax - band A in England, not sure what the scales etc are in Scotland. If you don't have planning I'd just crack on if you only intend on 6mths. If council kick off, by time they do anything you will be in anyway🤷‍♂️

They're taking the piss because they know you need them. Supply and demand. They will keep asking for more. The real question is can you tolerate a delay whilst finding someone else. If you can, get rid. If you can't, they're going to keep taking the piss.

@Nickfromwalesone for you bud, I'm sure over the years I've seen you talk about the potential for this issue with this type of fitting and that Hep is the go to. This is the first time on here that I've actually heard of it happening.

I do intend to look further at this, I will the ct clamp off the incomer and stick it direct onto the ashp line to see what it says, just haven't had time to do it yet. My doubts stem from how the emporia vue works - all this business about true power use etc and potentially the sample rate. Its on my to do list.

What brings you to the 'Industrial Garden Town'? Never really understood the appeal of being known as that, a bit like putting some hundreds and thousands on a turd🤷‍♂️

A bit odd this, I think this issue falls into the no-one cares because no one had to previously. Talk around ASHP is driven by COP, not once have I seen 'standby' power consumption listed. Yet everything else we buy in life gives a value for that. It seems a closed case that there is some power wastage in order to keep the oil warm, stop refrigerant from dissolving into it and damaging the compressor. The devil now is in the detail of how much power is wasted and which are the worst offenders.

Yeah I had read that last night while.doimg a bit of reading hence why I need to follow thos rabbit further down the hole. I dont think 200W is right but there is certainly some power usage, need to drill down into it. What @joth is observing is good. Less than ideal that power is wasted but a much more acceptable figure to swallow.

Emporia vue. I do intend to try and get some bona fide accurate readings as I'm not too trusting on accuracy, I have read a bit which leads to think the true power consumption is likely a lot less. On the other hand, there does seem to be a lot of information now being dug up about this issue which suggests there is a problem, just that the true scale of it is unknown at the minute. The other thing that lends itself to this being an actual thing was the attitude of the tech support at Mitsubishi - didn't bat an eye when I queried this.

Damn. Two in one day....I'm off to go work on the bathroom😅

Ha. The SI unit police has got me - I try to be careful because I know you are on the prowl waiting to slap a ticket on offenders, this one slipped through👀

Freeze stat is disabled. It pulls 200w as standard 24/7 which the rep at Mitsubishi didn't seem to think of as an issue, even when I pointed out that at £0.3/kwH I'm looking at throwing a good £400 away after discounting hours where it is actually used. Apparently keeping the oil warm is all part of the 'protect the compressor' ethos. I assume that it easier for them to configure the system so it does that 24/7 rather than design something which turns itself on/off with the weather conditions and the scheduled use set by the homeowner. Strange that this hasn't been discussed on here before but it seems that more and more threads are being identified where this problem is discussed - appears to be a widespread yet little know and poorly understood issue.