DH202020

Take lots of photos.... Seemed to work for my BC, in fact he insisted, sent them at different stages, job done, happy man He did of course turn up sometimes

I guess the difference between cost of fire door , door stops/furniture, labour , smoke alarm and the fire retardant stain?

Thanks guys The best I've been quoted is 5 litres comes with full specs £140 inc delivery Name; Ultrafire Not sure if this is a good price or not? (although NSS mentioned 253 squids )

I wibble quite often... Says the wife The humidity sensor is built into the unit, probably on the outlet side. Woks very efficiently, dries towls/washing quite quickly, now I'm living with one of these, wouldn't be without it... Helps with dust allergies too

when you have 5min, google... vent axia sentinel kinetic plus b manual...download PDF Could help solve the issue's.... The humidity sensor is handy especially when showering, automatically cuts in and out clearing moisture.... Mind you if stuck on 50% boost no need Anyway welcome to buildhub

When you look at the digital screen is there a small logo/squiggle shape right hand corner? If there is, this is indicating humidity sensor is activated (boost). You can raise the humidity level say from 60 to 80...works for me ? David

Hi all My building inspector has requested fire retardant wood stain on 10sqm sawn timber Cladding. Anyone got any Recommendations? Cost? I need 5 litres if two coats applied. Technical.....the treatment should give a class 0 finish (or class 1 with a fire propagation index (I) of not more than 12 and a sub-index (i1) of not more than 6) when tested to BS 476. Alternatively there is a newer standard, BS EN 13501 where a class B-s3, d2 or better is required. The treatment should be suitable for external use. Thanks David

December will be our 1st year in our detached 3 bed MBC built house, we went for the 180mm frame with additional 25mm Insulation. Underfloor Heating ground floor only...in winter the upstairs is 1degree cooler, no additional heating at all, no towl rail heating... Nothing! Towls dry overnight or in 4to 5 hours no probs. our MVHR can warm the house by 9degrees, only needs 3hours of sunshine during the day and by morning (if temperatures drop down to 10 degrees over night) it's around 19-20 degree at 8 am. our mvhr does not have any additional heating!

I googled and found specialists (so called) offering services from £235+? Not sure if 'standard' Is going to cut it

Hi everyone Will be needing a company to reclaim VAT payments on our completed DIY new build (BC will sign off in about a month) I'm not great with paperwork, so... idea is to drop off a box of receipts... And wait for cheque! Prefer to use someone in Kent if poss (not keen on sending paperwork through post!) Any recommendations welcome

Hi all Looking for a simple under sink instant hot water, direct mains fed It's for the garage and will serve 2x sinks (not at the same time) Occasional use only Any recommendations? looking at the cheaper end of the market Thanks David.

Switched off MHVR 3 days ago!... Like some others not so effective in warm outside air temperatures, at one point it was bringing in warmer air than existing room temperature! windows now open 24hr! closed reflective blinds when in full sun, frames behind blinds warm up considerably...will be considering solar reflective film as Jeremy mentioned on the south/southwest sides. Reflective film: Anyone got recommendations...make? inside? Outside? Thanks.

Thanks onoff They are double roman Redland 50s or Marley I've now gone back to the conservation and planing officers, asking for a meeting on site (they seem to like that sort of thing) I'm not happy about second hand tiles, am going to suggest a different covering altogether!! Me thinks

Ok... Width is 3.4 (length of of one side is 2m to facia board)...so going by what you said...it's too much Back to square one...any double roman out there?? Thanks again Ian.

Hi Ian, Not thought of that, adds about £260 to the job though, Mmmmmm wonder why Redland/Marley with same shape/ style, can go so low? Now you've got me thinking...would timber firing pieces be more reasonable? Any idea the difference between 22.5 and 30 expressed in measurement?

I have recently been afflicted with the current concrete roofing tile shortage! To finish the garage roof I have sourced a Sandtoft Concrete Lindum Interlocking sandfaced/granular tile (the supplier ordered them last year) The specifications say the lowest pitch is 30°mine is 25.5° Originally I had allowed for Redland which allowed a lower pitch. BIG question will they still function OK? P.s if anyone has 340 double roman in brown granulated spare let me know Thanks David.

OK...good news climbed up into roof space just as sun was setting... surprise...not as hot as I thought Second thing... checked ducting not warm at all!! Tucked my hand down through breather membrane overlap, touched tiles, plenty of air there Third thing...noticed one of the main ducting pipes did NOT have secondary insulation wrap (I think it is the incoming air flow) so going to add extra insulation in that area. So all in all I'm relieved....will check air temperature once added insulation. Thanks everyone.

How does a dry ridge work? (That's what I've got) does it breath a little? Seems a little see through, would air be able to escape I wonder? In an hour I'm venturing up in the roof space, I will check the temperature of the ducting in the insulation Thanks Jeremy

This may help... http://www.permavent.co.uk/cold-non-vented/ I'm thinking of adding additional ventilation via the gable end wall

Hi all, just to clarify...under the tiles is a breather membrane, then roof void (cold roof), on top of ceiling 300mm blown insulation, in the insulation runs the main incoming pipe (4meters) for MHVR which also has its own wrapped insulation. I have Redland 50 double roman tiles with a bird protection brush, would these allow enough air under tiles? Would this be recognised as well vented?...or should there be additional vents inserted? Attached shows tiles and (small piece) breather membrane.

That's exactly what I'm doing...however the summer by pass is working fine (opening vents in MHVR and closing when I chang over)....and that's just it... The pipes are warming up, thus causing warm air to arrive at plenums. Its only happening with long spells of sunshine P.s I ran the evening purge for 6hrs, didn't lower the incoming air temperature by even .5°

Air tight ceiling, vapour cold roof (sorry wasn't clear on that)

Both...airtight build I guess getting shot of the extreme heat build up is priority... Does anyone else suffer with this problem? Has it effected your MHVR operation?

I need to cool down my roof space... Number one: it's warming my MHVR in-coming air (set on summer by pass) today at 2am the incoming air temperature at plenums was 23.3℃!! (Outside air temperature 12℃) I have blown in insulation to cold roof space where all MHVR ducting pipes are covered by at least 300mm. (Incoming have added wrap insulation, those to plenums are just buried). I have no natural air flow in roof space, just the usual good quality vapor control barrier (MBC constructed) What are my options? (I'm already thinking of turning off my MHVR and opening windows!!) Help

Happened to me the other night...forgot to switch off unit...smell of smoke everywhere...even the next day...checked the incoming filter chocked with grime and stunk severely...gave it a good wash...good as gold! P.s we have even smelt neighbours BBQ...you will have to be vigilant when wind is blowing in wrong direction!