NSS

Southern Sheeting Supplies in Sussex, and they discounted their online prices so worth enquiring.

We're using Roofart powder coated galvanised steel. It's virtually identical to Lindab but cheaper. Seems very good so far but it's Early days.

Okay, someone must be able to make use of these. Offers over £500 for the pair.

I have the Titan TTB517STP 25mm Corded Nailer / Stapler from Screwfix (£30). Fired close to 4,000 x 22mm staplers in the last six weeks or so with very few misfires.

MMMMmmmmmmmmm

Hi James, whereabouts in the UK are you? I have a small amount of Perinsul and a fair bit of Foamglass left over from our build which you could have (for a small consideration) if it would help.

Glad to help :-)

Assuming you mean for anchoring the timber frame to the foundation, no. Scandia-Hus simply Rawl-bolted the sole-plate to the coursing blocks. That said, we're in a very sheltered location so windage isn't a significant issue. If your location is more exposed then you may choose to use straps.

James, it is the manufacturers specification. From their brochure..... The floor is completed with a structural concrete topping reinforced with polypropylene fibres laid over a minimum of 80mm eps sheet insulation. Forterra Concrete specification: • 70mm concrete strength class RC25/30 • Reinforced with polypropylene fibres or steel mesh reinforcement

Hi James, just to be clear it is not a screed over the Jetfloor, it's a structural concrete pour (reinforced in our case with fibres as opposed to mesh). It is perfectly normal for the slab to be laid prior to shell erection, irrespective of whether it is a timber frame or traditional block & brick construction. One other tip, it's worth using the aluminium cored ufh pipe as it stays where you clip it. Our groundworks contractor was a little concerned that the pipes would lift when they poured the concrete and insisted on having someone on standby to deal with if there was a problem - but there wasn't.

Couple of points to bear in mind. You'll need a membrane over the beams and Jetfloor blocks (under the topsheet) which needs to extend over the perimeter wall (under sole plate of the timber frame) so this would need to go down before you board over the jetfloor/beams. My concern would be the vulnerability of that membrane to damage. Secondly, assuming you will have internal walls that are structural, you'd need to bring any dwarf walls up to sole plate height before erecting the timber frame. This would have the effect of sub-dividing your floor for the structural concrete pour (which could make it more difficult to maintain consistent floor levels). One of the advantages of laying the ufh pipes and the structural concrete floor before erecting the walls is the ease of access, and the coursing blocks at the perimeter are perfect for leveling the floor to. As you'll have seen from the photos, we marked the Jetfloor topsheet with internal wall positions, doorways, shower trays, kitchen/utility cupboards, etc before laying the pipes. This ensured that no pipes were routed under any areas where fixings into the floor would need to be placed later.

Sorry James, it seems I didn't take any pics showing the foamglass in the cavity. Let me know if I can provide any further detail though.

Hi James, although the diagram on my blog shows 50mm foamglass in the cavity (ie full fill through that section), we reduced it 40mm because the Scandia Hus wall panels have 'skirt' of the breather membrane that we have tucked in between the foamglass and the outer brickwork. This means any condensation that runs down the breather will find it's way into the void below rather than sitting above the insulation. I'm not sure I have any pics of this detail but will have a look tomorrow and post here if I find anything useful.

We added 40mm foamglass in the cavity from just below the Perinsul to level with DPC and cut around the telescopic vents.

Yes James, those pics were last September. Detail was all approved by SE, BCO and Scandia Hus before timber frame was erected.

James, I don't believe you need to fill all that 150mm depth with perinsul. We have a similar arrangement but used a coursing brick over the Perinsul. You can see it here http://strawberrytreelodge.blogspot.co.uk/2015/08/stage-2-blockwork-drainage-perinsul-and.html?m=

I have a matching pair of Internorm HF210 windows to dispose of. They are in perfect condition but were manufactured to the wrong size for my project so are surplus to my requirements. Photos and specs follow. The original cost was over £1,000 each but will accept £750 for the pair. Buyer to collect from Southampton.

Sorry Declan, but I think maybe you're missing my point. In your scenario it is clearly the butcher that is acting strangely, not the farmer. I don't dispute that in Jane's case it sems odd that the BMs have provided a quote for Actis rather than the requested materials, but that does not to my mind give rise to an accusation that the manufacturer has 'got at' the supplier. Of course, if Jeremy can PROVE otherwise then it's a different matter. In the meantime it simply appears to be a continuing attempt to rubbish Actis, both the company and their product.

Because the 'unethical company' quote was clearly aimed at Actis (not as he now suggests the BMs), and the rest of the thread is littered with slurs by Jeremy that are either made directly or inferred against Actis. Quoting over a decade old findings which refer to tests of a previous generation of products and inferring that the claimed thermal performance of the current Actis offering is likely to be similarly mis-represented / cannot be trusted is like saying current Skoda cars are as poor as those that were the butt of jokes in the past.

Here we go again. What evidence do you have to back up that statement? The fact that two retailers put forward Actis may simply be because they're making a better margin on it than the requested product, or they may even believe it to be the most appropriate solution. I'll be forwarding a link to this thread to the regional director at Actin as I'm sure he/they will be very interested to read your assertions that they are an unethical company. Oh, and in a spirit of openness, perhaps you'd like to tell the forum which of your suppliers it is that you have a 'contractual' obligation to to have your blog online. Members may then wish to make up their own minds as to whom exactly may have been 'got at'.

If you say so Jeremy. To be honest, when I saw that you were one of the team behind the new forum I seriously considered steering well clear, but I hoped it could be a broader church than ebuild had become. Apparently not so perhaps it's best that I just toddle off and leave you to it - then this is one fool you won't have to suffer (gladly or otherwise). Feel free to delete any/all of my 16 posts, I'm sure nobody will miss them.. Good luck all.

As do I, but I just wonder how many people only read the forum(s) rather than participate for fear of being made to look/feel a fool. Thankfully I've been a fool all my life so it's like water off of a duck's back.

And all the time we speak in what, to the vast majority of the population, is complete gobbledygook then that won't change. IMHO, if this forum really wants to encourage low energy homes to become the norm then it has to stop demanding a quantum leap to the Holy Grail (and scoffing at anything less) and recognise that a lot of people making small steps is better than a few scientists, academics and energy geeks fretting over minutia that means absolutely nothing to the masses.

Rafters are at 600mm centres and 45mm H-Control is being added over the top (and fully taped), then 35mm counter battens to create service void and to take 15mm plasterboard.

150mm Actis Hybris in situ.