Barnboy

@MortarThePoint it was 3 years ago. I still have 90% of a box of them in my shed, I'll try and remember to post a photo later so you can see if the strip is the same. When they fired nicely they were good, i was just getting so frustrayed with them that i gave up.

I tried using the paslode nail screws. They were a nightmare, the idea is good but instead of a paper strip holding them together they have a plastic type of strip. They were forever jamming up or misfiring as they don't tear off on firing anywhere near as well as the cardboard on nails. I gave up after putting about 3 sheets of boarding up and went back to normal screws.

It was just a std tape. I'm going to try some of thebyellow frog tape as I need to mask up and spray the walls with their top coat and the ceiling has already had its top coat in a different colour.

Morning everyone. I sprayed the 1st / white wash coat on my walls a few months ago and haven't put anymore coats on so far. The plaster had been dry for about 6 weeks before painting and I used a good quality paint, watered down as per the instructions. I've just had some masking tape on some of the walls whilst fitting my newel posts, which was only on the walls for maybe ½hr but when I've pulled the tape off its taken some paint with it. Why has it done this, and should i do anything before putting the second coat on to help it? Did I put the wash coat on too thick ?

Thank you @JohnMo , I will look into all of this later this evening. Your wealth of knowledge has been extremely helpful.

What is the Ion exchange unit that you are using ? I've had a look about this morning and all the units I can find are quite expensive.

Is that water that you've tested until you've found a suitable source or deionized bottled water ?

Thanks @sharpener, hopefully yourself and @JohnMo have set my mind to resttoill just make sure I use as low resistance as possible fittings once I get to where I need to be.

31/26mm Roll with 2x tee pieces to allow for air vents cones out complete at 5.15kpa. 40/33mm, 5mtr lengths with 2x tee pieces and 4x couplings comes out at 1.96kpa Both calculations are at the 17.2l/min velocity listed in the Ecodan paperwork which allows 19kpa. These are just the main run, so a little extra to add for motorised valves etc but at 3kpa difference I'm guessing that the 32/26mm should be OK?

Story of my life, I overthink everything and then get overtaken by those who just wing it and get away with everything. Mitsi show their spec as a test flow rate of 17.2l/min, which os the top of their flow range, and pressure differences of 19kpa. My calculations using h2x software give me 4.95kpa for 32/26mmpipe and 1.59kpa for 40/33mm pipe @17.2l/min so I should be fine with the 32/26mm ? 40 only comes in 3mtr lengths where as 32 comes in a nice 50m roll, so no joints.

But if a length of pipe has a pressure loss and so do fittings, surely any other unit, motorised valve, ball valve etc must give some pressure loss ?

We don't normally get that cold this far south, the lowest average over the last 30yrs has been 7⁰C but it has been recorded down to -3 at some point during that time too. My 25⁰ OAT to inside Hest loss is 5.155kw, so x 24/21=5.89kw, do a 6kw unit? That narrows me to Mitsubishi, the WZ60VAA(BS) unit has the following data, This looks like it will cover the required output, or is it too much ? They don't restrict flow so zero They must all add up to something? The pipe data that I have for the make of pipe that I can source has zeta valued for their 90⁰, tees, straight couplings etc, they don't add up to very much but added together will give a few kpa ?

I've now spent hours and hours trying to work this out. I've come to the conclusion that as my circuit from the ashp back to it is a mirror image then where it rises on one leg, it falls back the same amount on the opposite leg so any pressure differences from height will completely cancel each other out. I've looked as deep as I can find for the possible heat pumps that I will choose from, my heat loss at 20⁰c OAT to room temp according to Jeremy's spreadsheet shows 4.2kw so a 5kw unit should be good . The target flow rates shown for these are around 14l/m and max pressure drop of 14kpa. I've got a pressure drop of pipe only of the feed and return of 4kpa. I cant find details of any inbuilt pumps to see any duty cycles. My problem now is that I can't find any pressure drop numbers for any anti freeze valves, ball valves etc. Does anyone have anything for these ?

Our kitchen designer recommended I put in a 6" duct before we'd even got a design from him, more on the basis of you'll get less noise from a 6" than a 4". When our kitchen arrived the hood came with a 6"-4" reducer so could have been fitted either way but why would you want to pump a 6" capacity fan into a 4" hole and choke it. I'd put 6" in if I was you, it's always better to go bigger and be safe.

I've had another measure and im somwhere between 32 and 36m round trip for pipework. According to the Alpex catalogue, without allowing for the rise and fall of the pipework I will have a pressure loss of between 4 and 4.5kpa if I go 32/26mm and 0.96 and 1.08kpa in 40/33mm. The Samsung spec gives flow of 14.5lpm and a pressure loss of 8kpa whilst the Mitsi gives a flow if 14lpm and pressure loss of 18.16kpa ? I'm hoping for these numbers that the 32/26mm will happily cope. I can't find info on whether ot not the Mitsi has it's own pump or find anything relating to it's duty cycle if it for have one, so next it will just be down to converting my numbers to head metres and finding a suitable pump.

Where do you find these numbers ? Yes I believe the Samsumg requires an external pump, which I'll have to work out which pump fits the scheme at some point too. I'm just baffled by this, I've been trying to work it out for weeks so that I can order the required pipe but I can't make sense of it.

I've looked over and over at this, the only ASHP instructions that I can find with a pressure loss graph are for Samsung as attached. Samsung instructions say 14.4ltrs/minute average so over a 24m flow and return, 12m each way run of 26mm internal I calculate a pressure loss of 0.008kpa and for 33mm internal pipe 0.003kpa using an online calculator, but looking at the Alpex graph it seems to showthe 26mm intetnal at 110pa/m = 0.11kpa/m = 2.64kpa/24m and for the 33mm internal, 30pa/m = 0.03kpa/m = = 0.72kpa/24m? Trying to workout the vertical section pressure loss I'm looking at 0.433psi per ft of head = 1.407psi/m = 2.814psi for the 2m you say that my 4m up,2m down each way equates to 19.405kpa. From my reading of the Samsung graph I can only have around 8/10kpa pressure drop, so whichever size pipe I use, the head pressure over kills my pressure drop allowance. Am I still going wrong somewhere or do I need to add in a 2nd pump, would this have an effect on my loss ?

Does anyone know the difference between the wpa and wpb mixers ? @Dreadnaught which is yours

I've looked up 3 different makes of heat pumps that fit the size I'll be looking at fitting and their respective flow rate requirements. Mitsi 6-17 ltrs/min Vaillant 6.6-14.3 ltrs/min Samsung 7-48 ltrs/min I can only get Alpex piping in 32mm external/26mm internal or 40mm external / 33mm internal locally. The Alpex catalogue says that heatimg distribution pipes should flow up to 0.5m/s and riser and basement pipes 1.0m/s, giving the 32mm a flow rate of 16.2-31.8ltrs per minute and the 40mm a rate of 25.8- 52.8mlltrs per minute. I need a run of approximately 18mtrs each way from my ASHP to the hot wather tank and UFH manifold but this needs to rise about 4mtrs out of the ASHP into the ceiling joists before a straight run and a drop back down of about 2mtrs, and visa versa on the return leg. I'm thinking that I will probably need to put an air bleed point on both pipes at the top of the rise out of the ASHP which will involve adding a T into the run and thus creating some resistance. So, the big question is, which size pipe do I go for and do I need the air bleed point ? The 32/26mm looks capable but will the rise and possible restriction of a T cause an issue ? Thanks

Outsourced are recommending the Embrass pump over grundfos, has anyone used these and can comment ?

Thanks John, They hadn't comeuppance in my Google search but I now remember reading a post where you'd mentioned them. I take it you still recommend using outsourced?

I'm on the search for an Ivar stainless manifold and pumpset for an ashp underfloor system install after the recommendation on here to use them. I've had a Google about but can only find a brass manifold im the uk, can someone point me to where people are buying from please ? Thanks

Thanks @Nickfromwales, I havent boarded rhe room below yet so can get to the trap from below to keep an eye on it whilst pouring a few buckets of water into the tray to make sure. Thank you

I did this in a way. My reveals are deep as in the wall is thick but I didn't have much depth for insulation. I used spacetherm blanket against the stone with a marine ply box to form the inner reveal. I didn't have much room left before I'd loose sight of my window frame so I used plasterboard adhesive Gun foam to fix Jackonboard onto the marine ply which was then sealed with either diluted pva or sbr and plastered. So far so good. I started a thread on it " jackoboard on ply " someone commented they'd used the same method onto brick and it was solid. Just make sure that you wait the recommended time for the foam to expand before fixing the board into place.

@Nickfromwales I've read your recommendations for sink wastes but can you confirm, you CT1 both the rubber and the top insert on shower and bath wastes ? What do you think of the BT1 product ? Thanks