Alwayslearning22

I’ll give this sealant a go. Looks promising. Thank you all for your help much appreciated

I found this I wonder would it do the job? https://www.soudal.co.uk/diy/products/fix-all/fix-all/fix-all-flexi

I see what you mean. I’m just starting to notice my home as punctures in the vcl basically everywhere. So I’m wondering is there a point in taking off the window board to correct it when I have holes everywhere else? Maybe sealing the window board could be the less intrusive repair

Hi folks, I’ve a window in my house that hasn’t been sealed properly with window tape. so I’ve a nasty gale getting through. Is it a big job to remove the window board and retape it? Or should I just seal the gap with silicone? thanks

Thanks Conor. I’m in the republic so it’s obviously the same.

Thanks steamytea. I might try fixing something up like yours. Thank everyone for the help

Do kitchen sink waste and utility room waste for the washing machine need to be connected to a soil stAck for venting purposes? Also same question regarding my downstairs toilet the pipe just runs straight outside. I thought all waste pipes needed venting?

Thanks for the reply. Can I ask how much of an air gap did you leave? My house is also timberframe. I like the sound of the diy version. Only thing I'm concerned about is my house has trickle vents and and a mechanical ventilation system. so I think I need to keep those vents open. I was thinking of getting horizontal sliders and just closing them in the evening when the noisy kids come out. do go have any pictures of your secondary glazing? I need a solution fast those kids are driving me bonkers every evening and keeping my baby awake

ThAnks for the replies I’ll have a look at clear view for a quote.

Glad to hear the positive replies. Gives me hope that I can improve my situation. anyone know how much a unit costs? I should add my window is 2m by 1.5m width. .When fitting do I need to seal the gap around the frame with acoustic sealant? Or will any sealant/foam do? My front door is one of those foam filled composite doors so I may need to change that too. To improve things overall.

Thank you all for the replies. I was looking online and there is companies who supply a special soundproof glass which is 8mm thick but I would imagine this would be quite expensive. Would a 150mm gap between my windows and the secondary glazing suffice? I could just get the standard glazing which is 4mm I think I don’t want to spend a lot of money and still hear them though.

Anyone any experience with secondary glazing for sound proofing reasons? I live in a noisy environment mostly teenagers late at night making a lot of noise. Although I have a new home the windows are the cheapest there is out there with trickle vents. I’d love to be able to relax at night and not be tormented by loud screaming. im considering installing in my bedroom and sitting room. Will It help my situation I wonder?

I know it’s awful I wonder the point in having a vapour barrier when you have a tradesmen ripping it apart so they can get there pipes through.

Thanks. I was just thinking it could be difficult to seal properly for long term the tape would be awkward to use around the batton maybe

Any ideas on how I could seal up this penetration on my vapour barrier? I Don’t think I can tape it up?

Is it ok to use this method and drill from the outside? Im afraid of the brick face popping off on me.

Thanks for that Nick exactly what I was looking for. Really appreciate it.

Hi guys I need to install some conduit through the wall for some cameras. Is there any tricks when drilling through the exterior wAll in a timber frame? I’m concerned once I hit the insulation behind the osb board It’s going to end up wrapping around the drill and messing everything up in there.

Thanks for the help I’ll give it a good

Thanks for the reply. Do I need to drain some water from the system to do that? They must be very temperamental

Hi guys, I’ve an esbe 3 port Diverter valve that seems to be slightly stuck. Does anyone know of it’s possible to manually force it closed to unstick it? I think there is sediment stopping it, as it’s a new valve.

The panel has little inward curves (wood panel effect?) where the seal is , so that’s where the water is getting past the seal I think. There’s no drain holes on the face either. So should this door had some sort of internal drainage? It’s only two years old. I could try and replace the seal on the outside but it probably won’t seal very well even with a new seal against the panel curves

Also it doesn’t look like the seals can be removed on the outside?

Oh right I thought those doors had drainage in the inside like Upvc windows?

I had the i plastic panel out the other day and could see it had no hole drilled for drainage. Can I drill straight down through that metal infill bar at the bottom of the door?