newhome

The other electrician who came looked at the report and said God he was a fussy fecker but did the remedial work and signed it off. I 'assume' I can use washing machine etc any time of day or night but actually I only ever use any appliance during the day when I'm here. Never leave anything on overnight, just prefer not to, but I think it would work ok if I wanted to.

And there are these. Not sure if useful? Plus all the UFH loops that I assume are pretty standard.

Electrical Certificate BH.pdf And here is the electrical test. We had to get another electrician out to address the failures as hubby wasn’t able to do anything by then. Not sure if that’s why the consumer unit thing looks odd?

I found what I think is the spec of the thermal store:

There were no 'controls' as such before his arrival. The room thermostats and the touchscreen heat miser thingy aside. There really didn't seem to be a way of switching it on and off before he came other than switching off the boiler and the UFH pump manually if I really needed it off. Other than that it seemed to be on all the time unless I physically switched it off. So I used to switch the boiler and pump off in the boiler room when I needed to.

Thanks. Bruv has come to the rescue and it going to edit it for me.

@Nickfromwales do you think I should give your plan a whirl tonight or leave it for when it's not so late?

The remedial work after the electrical test was carried out wasn't done by my hubby as he was too sick by then. We had a firm out to do it. Not sure if that's one of the things they put in. There were a few things to address. Dunno. I have no chance of getting that cover off, at least not tonight. The screws are tight as ar4eholes and I can't find a screwdriver to fit, and anyway it looks like they've been sunk with a drill and I don't really do drills and things .

Trouble is I had no knowledge and when someone says they will work it all out and get it working I wanted to believe it.

He came out about a year ago eons after it was all installed and after my hubby had died as I wanted to try to get the hot water working without the UFH pump being switched on. He installed the 5 new bits as pictured. Definitely definitely none of that was in the original spec.

@Nickfromwales the top invoice here explains what the Drayton does but essentially it turns the UFH pump off and on via time switch.

He fitted all of the bits in the photo. None of that was there before. The Drayton time clock controls the underfloor heating pump.

And the local man put 2 switches on the wall next to the controllers. The one that is switched off is the immersion and the one that is on is the boiler.

Here's what the bill looks like:

And some photos of the bits of the meters I can see. They are boxed in apart from the bit where you can read the meters but essentially they are side by side. I can unscrew the covers (I think!) if it’s helpful?

Catching up on a few bits from earlier before I go try out @Nickfromwales instructions. Consumer unit photos

Just catching up on a few posts from before. How do I edit a PDF file to remove name / address details?

Thank you so much @Nickfromwales! You are a star! I don’t claim to have understood all that you’ve posted but when I’m home I will read it in conjunction with the visual view and it may make more sense. The ‘cock in the cupboard’ was the local plumber who installed that thermostat in the utility room just outside the boiler room. I thought that was a bit odd as even I know that you don’t put a thermostat that controls the boiler right next to the bleedin boiler!

Thanks! Not posted the meters yet as still at work. Will be home later to take pics!

How does it know when to charge peak rate if the heating is only wired to one of the meters with a single reading? Think I don’t understand how these things work as I’ve never had 2 meters before.

Here is the full electrical test. There were a few things to address that were done and signed off later. Will add later as struggling to remove my address from the phone!

I could get boiler to operate 24 hours a day if I wanted to. It only switches off when I physically switch it off or control the on and off times with the wall controller (which is what I do currently). I’m setting it like a normal gas and rads boiler just now coming on around 5am to heat water for a shower, then switch off at about 8am, and then on about an hour before I get home from work and off around 11pm. I know that’s not optimal for this type of system but it’s the only way it seems to be economical really.

The times seem to be the same every day. 3 x 2 hour slots. I hear a ‘click’ when the time starts.

Here’s the bit from the electrical test if useful.

Pretty sure hubby said it was 3 phase whatever that means.