JohnBishop

I am going to put some concrete bases for this and heavier timber I reckon 150x150mm

Hi Gents, I am planning to build a 4-leg patio this winter/spring. The patio will be covering my backdoors so the rainwater does not get into the kitchen. I reckon 3m x 4m The roof is going to be simple slope. The patio will not be connected with the building barely touching it. I have external insulation and I don't want thermal bridging. I think about some transparent material to put on the top as I don't want shade. What material would you recommend?

I think about roof gutter so I can collect rainwater. Are there any mounting brackets that you can screw into the roof joists rather than wall? My roof overhangs for well over 30cm.

According to IKO the overlap should be between 50-75mm but on Youtube Carpenter's Daughter felted a low slope roof and the overlap was more than a foot. They didn't use the adhesive but nails and the sealant/adhesive from a tube. To me using the adhesive from a can looks like a mess. I would rather go the nails + sealant/adhesive route. I went for this more expensive IKO Super Green Shed Felt. What do you think?

What is the recommended overlap of the felt on a roof with that low angle? Is it like a 1.5 foot or something? I am going to use OB1 sealant to seal the layers of felt https://www.screwfix.com/p/ob1-multi-surface-sealant-adhesive-clear-290ml/434jf

Hi Gents, Thanks for coming back to me. I have bought some truss clips but then I saw a video where a pro said to use hangers because apparently with winds 50+mph it can rip the roof open. On the other hand I want to leave that ridiculously long overhang in front of the shed. The Shed is 2.4m deep, timber is 3.6m long, 30cm overhang at the back so 90cm overhang in front. I admit that the location can be windy at times, it is exposed, the wind usually hits from west to east (there is a 5m tall hedge on the eastern side) so the slope raises from west to east. Or I could use a combination of both just to be safe or use jiffy hangers on every other joist. https://www.screwfix.com/p/sabrefix-jiffy-hangers-50mm-x-275mm-10-pack/60964#product_additional_details_container

Hi Gents, Do I need birdsmouth cuts at this low angle? 

I have the drill however drilling these EUR pallets is not going to happen. There is simply too many nails and what it looks like at an angles as well. I would have to drill more than once to get the drill through what weakens the pallet in the process. Is there anything else I can use to tie them together except steel nail plates?

Hi again, I hope you are well. Do you know of any decent online merchants I can order good metal brackets (e.g. angle, flat plates) in bulk? I don't necessarily trust the quality when buying from eBay. I know this stuff is available at Wickes or Screwfix but if possible I prefer to support organic business if you know what I mean. I am going to check a local ironmonger to see if they have what I need and it's not too pricey. Please advise anyway. Someone has recommended https://directchannel.uk.com for metal stuff like bolts and nuts but I don't see them having angle brackets. P.S. What I am worried about is that many of these local merchants they don't really look much different from the nationwide chains, they are all like clones of each other with pretty much the same stuff. None of them e.g. specialise in metal stuff but have pretty much a little bit of everything.

exactly, it's called truss clips. This is what I need. In this video the man has mounted joists using angle brackets which is also fine I think.

I need something like this: https://youtu.be/p3Z2Bpez31c?feature=shared&t=4094

Hi All, Where can I source joists hangers? To be precise I need something like hurricane brackets so the joists go over not hang. I want the roof to be bigger than the actual building - a wooden shed. https://www.buildersmetalwork.com/blog/how_to_choose_the_right_joisthangers.html Please advise. Best regards

I actually came up with a flat CAT6 cable that still carries PoE. I can then easily run it through window without a risk of cutting the cable when closing opening the window. I think it would be better to install the camera a little lower than just above the window 2nd floor / below the roof. I have to come up with a mount so I can then attach it to the window sill. Do you think I should get some stronger piece of PVC and rather than screw it into the sill just glue it properly? Mounting it under the window also eliminates hanging cables I would have to take care of in some way. These Reolink cameras have a single cable that splits to 3 cables which is an overkill, I don't need these other sockets but I cannot get rid of them. I cannot attach the camera anywhere else because there is insulation all around.

so what do you say go for M8 35cm or 60cm?

I think I found a long enough drill bit. The longest hole will be ~30cm and I found a 60cm drill bit. Bosch Formwork which is available in 6mm diameter the others I come across e.g. 35cm long is minimum for M8 or maybe I should just up it to M8. The price of the rods and nuts isn't much different.

I understand this cannot be airtight but I don't feel a breeze in that space moreover foil reflects the heat otherwise people would not use foil blankets outdoors. Ideally you want to be perfectly wrapped in it but it still works even if it isn't.

I cannot find this information. Their installation manual is loaded with colours, my eyes hurt. In that case it does not make sense to put it in because there is no access to attach it at the bottom. It says in the manual that for over rafter installation full roof strip is required. On the other hand under rafter installation does not make sense because I want to insulate just the cranked bit not the whole roof e.g. for loft extension

Last time I have ordered Superfoil but it was floor insulation so this one will be different. I look at these https://www.builderdepot.co.uk/?q=superfoil There is breathable Superfoil SF19BB: https://www.builderdepot.co.uk/1200mm-x-10m-superfoil-sf19bb-breathable-multi-foil-insulation?queryID=2263a3e602ffb7156e458879776cdf73&objectID=40602&indexName=production_default_products# and a bit more expensive SF40 https://www.builderdepot.co.uk/1500mm-x-10m-superfoil-sf40-multi-foil-insulation?queryID=2263a3e602ffb7156e458879776cdf73&objectID=22352&indexName=production_default_products In my case the rafters are about 33-37cm apart and the cranked bit is about 70cm deep/long so the only thing I can do is to cut ~35cm W and 80cm L Superfoil strips and slide them into the void then staple on top unless there is a better way.

I get that I can use the saw to help to remove it but I still need to hack off the plaster to put one in. Just wondering how much do I need to hack off not to overdo.

I think the problem is the sills supposed to be attached before it all goes together with the window frame into the window opening. Thanks for pointing out that the insulation was done by Mark Group. I bet it was as they operate in East Midlands and this was done as a bulk job for Nottingham Community Housing Association Ltd. I reckon they did a good job not sure how long ago.

I know what you mean, I just want it to last. I have these Tarmac 3.6N blocks and I am not sure if these are good, last as long as the e.g. the 7N ones. They go on top of wide council slabs but I they deteriorate the shed will sink.

ok so I just hack off the plaster to get it out and put a new one in.

Ok, I am going back into this project. I am about to order some threaded rods, nuts and penny washers from https://directchannel.uk.com/ I decided to go with M6 size. I don't see galvanised rods available only stainless steel and BZP Bright Zinc Plated. There are galvanised nuts and washers. Can I order BZP rods or source galvanised ones from somewhere else? I looked around but in other shops it's even more expensive or I cannot find smaller sized like M6 for instance but M12+. I also don't really know how to join the floor with the walls. I think I use some plates.

This is the window I am talking about. I reckon there is about 12mm of plaster on each side and above I have to get rid off.

Hi All, Can I replace window from inside? I have outside insulation that overlaps onto the window frame and I cannot take out the frame without destroying the whole thing. Can I replace the window from inside? Best