JohnBishop

on the topic where do you get long drill bits? I think I need like 400mm M8 wood drill bit do this work. I have to drill up to 300mm long holes but could be longer if I have to at an angle.

This is the pipe. I have covered it with PVA all around but if I put tiles or the multipanel on top maybe I can leave it (the void) like that, no?

Do you know where can source some bird houses or get some designs? I think when I start taking some of these branches down I think I owe the birds some new shelter. I really enjoy this bird ecosystem and would like to preserve it as much as possible.

I talked to the plumber and he said that I would need to have a thicker mains input pipe for such system to work. I think he said 30mm pipe so this would require undoing all the laminate flooring upstairs, lifting boards and installing a new pipe.

This is what's left of the pile + some thicker 40mm sticks that I left (not on the picture). I reduced it by 10 times. I bought it used from a guy. The blade on it was gone according to BOSCH but angle grinder has made it sharper than Japanese katanas. I would not call it an industrial unit but a recreational shredder. I was thinking about hiring a proper shredder but then I would have to do a whole lot more at one go and I simply have no time so I do it piece by piece instead. As long as the blade is sharp it chews sticks even the thick ones in no time. It only struggles with leafy stuff at times. The pile was there for at least a month. I know it was a rainy and damp time but the machine was still doing OK. When I red the manual it said that material should be shredded pretty immediately. I understand it dries quicker in the summer time.

ok no, it's just wrapped in tape

It's pretty shallow just so the 15mm pipe is hidden, I would say 18-20mm I put tiles or panels on top.

I just cut out some plaster and a bit of brick with an angle grinder to run the copper pipe. It's maybe 18-22mm wide.

Hi All, I have a copper pipe in the wall installed by the plumber (15mm cold mains), but now I have to fill the void with something. What should I use for that? Bonding 60, BondingCoat or simply MultiFinish? Best regards

so no need for stainless or galvanised ones? just High Tensile Steel

Thanks for the link. I order from them in bulk. I just have to decide but perhaps M8 is enough for this application.

with that cheap rods I can turn this into a panzer shed.

I checked Screwfix and Wickes and both are kind of a rip off. So far the best is ToolStation just over £3 quids for a 1m threaded bar I understand I drill a hole then I put the 1m rod through put washers and screws on both sides then cut to desired length then I don't have to worry that I cannot take the screw on or off the bar. As I add to the structure it's going to be harder to join everything with these bars. Not sure if I should join the inside of pallet decking with these bars or just regular wood screws. It would have to be lifted and done from underneath.

What if I buy used ATX 2000 and ATX 2200? Plug them to separate sockets then work on both at the same time. Similar noise but twice the throughput. By the way what do you do with the shredded stuff? Do you compost it or spread on the surface to create some weed barrier?

Thanks for the drawing. Ok so in my case it is a bit different but for the membrane part I think it does not matter, as long as I have the membrane in there then I reckon I can stuff as much Knauf insulation as I want. My question was also about the red bit which to my understanding is not insulated and I would expect thermal bridging going on in these corners. This would require insulation done from the inside.

Seen that review at Screwfix: "Do not buy, no longer supported with replacement bags: Bags being sold for this hoover do not fit. Whilst the hoover is good, once you use the 1 bag it comes with, you will not get anymore. entered 5 star as knew review would go to bottom of pile and not be seen." How do you go about the bags situation?

Hi All, I have lifted some floor boards and I can see a lot of rubble underneath. I would not worry too much as this is concealed for decades but I come across some wood pieces, very dry ideal kindling to set the house on fire. I remove those and I am going to remove bigger pieces by hand but I would also want to hoover the area including the floors after some masonry and plastering work. I hate to empty my small (apartment) hoover every 5 minutes. What would you recommend? Should I just upgrade to bigger Henry maybe?" I am not sure if I really need an industrial type hoover but something that can handle this type of stuff or has a wider hose maybe? Best regards

No, I haven't but I will check this one out.

This is awesome idea. Thanks. I look around for such rods.

Hi Everyone, I want to join two EUR pallets together to create structure for my shed. I was thinking about using EUR pallets only for the base and corners for load distribution then some less bulky pallets in between. If I use smaller pallets then I need shorter bolts. EUR pallets have these OSB blocks sometimes wooden blocks that are 10x15cm so if I want to join 2 pallets horizontally then I need at least 22cm long bolts if vertically then 32cm. I will need lots of them. I reckon some lower grade. I think I will have to drill some pallet support blocks twice vertically and horizontally. Where can I get bolts at a reasonable price for that? Should I just order them of eBay? I have no experience with these consumables so I don't even know what is a cheap and rip off price for 25, 35cm long M10 bolts.

My latest idea and I think the easiest is to fit little doors on every other 2nd step and convert the space into 2 step high compartments. Since I convert these old stairs and each step relies on the other I have to ground or wall support the boards above and below the little doors. It could well be the compartment includes also the step above then 3 step compartments, doors every 3rd step. I won't do it to the very top but only halfway down because as you can see on the picture there is a space for the fridge behind the plasterboard from the kitchen side.

I am not that guy but I admit I climbed Carair Idris twice.

Hi All, I hope you are doing well. I have two questions as I am not entirely sure if I want or I am ready to engage in full bathroom renovation just yet. 1. Are there any easier not necessary cheaper alternatives to fit in on the bathroom walls or at least on the two walls with a bath tub in the corner. I don't want to rush it and buy a whole lot of tiles then realise I don't like them. I dread of tiles that will turn out too dark. I want the bathroom to remain bright but not white tiles. 2. Is tiling the whole bathroom necessary? Mine isn't that tiny 2.5m by 2.3m Just FYI I put waterproof laminate on the floor. I reckon the advantage of large tiles is that they sound proof the bathroom better. Happy Easter!

So to summirize my understanding is that I can increase the insulation but make sure I don't come too close to the breathable membrane. Leave a gap basically. This is the old picture since then I have put another 100mm Knauf on top of the pink.

I think I go for BOSCH AXT 25 TC. I see someone in my area wants to sell it used. There was ATX 2000 on offer but someone was ahead of me.