Dillsue

CE marking is potentially meaningless for a personal import from outside the EU. If something dodgy injures you who you gonna complain to...... a company in China whos name you cant pronounce. As mentioned a few years ago rumour has it chinese companies were using a very similar CE mark that they said was a "China Export" mark and noghing to do with European CE marking

Whys that? You can get "flex"/YY cable in a big range of sizes capable of handling much more than 2.5kw.

If its a new build it shouldnt be too hard to track down the spark that installed the system via the site agent/builder. Failing that if youve not been given an in home display for your smart meter youll likely be able to get one from your eleccy supplier or off ebay. If you want to see what youre generating without going in the loft, you can get simple wireless energy meters that fit round the live conductor of the cable from your inverter and transmit to a small display- have a look at Owl Micro as an example. Youll likely need to get a spark to fit the clamp that measures the current depending on your competancy

Spot on. If DC connected, the inverter does the overall limiting whether its from PV, batteries or both. Technically you should tell the DNO about the change of inverter and if the new and old have the same limited output and have a manufacturers cert on the ENA database there'd be no issue

If the batteries are AC coupled then they have the potential to feed into the grid in addition to the 6kw PV you have approval to export. If your batteries can push out 5kw and your PV push out 6kw then your DNO will want to assess you potential export as 11kw.

Ah, could be that variant of HD wave

Each to their own! Thanks for the detailed explanation of your setup. Being non techy Id be sticking to standard SE kit. Your SE8000H inverter does all the battery charge management without a StorEdge interface?? SE do an xxxx- S4 variant of the StorEdge interface which is intended to be used with the HD wave inverters and I cant work out why that is needed as your HD wave inverter is managing the battery on its own. Anyone know why??

So in the summer your inverter will limit generation to circa 6kw. Spring, autumn and winter its likely the array will limit what you generate so I would squeeze in as many panels as you can to maximise generation for the majority of the year outside the summer peak. The maximum DC input figures manufacturers state are when all panels are facing the same way so are all generating at max at the same time. You can massively oversize your array if the panels are orientated differently so not hitting peak generation at the same time. Our SE inverter has a max 5250w DC input but currently has 6.4kwp panels connected with a further 2kwp to be added in the next few weeks. With 2kwp facing SE, 3.2kwp facing SW and 3.2kwp facing NW, PVGIS figures for the last 2 years say max we'll generate is just over 5kw so hopefully no smoke from the inverter! If youve got the space and funds, Id definitely oversize your array up to the manufacturers max rating or beyond if you want to crunch the figures.

Are you using 100% solaredge kit? SE6000H inverter, maybe storedge interface, SE or LG battery pack and SE energy meter?? Trying to understand options for adding a battery.

Hopefully outputs ramped up a bit now??

Quick look and I think thats for earlier inverters with a display. Now theyve ditched the display its all configured through SetApp

That all looks good. Theres some limited diagnostics available from stick of leds under the inverter but need to get SetApp working to see whats really going on.

Is the 10 volts the correct polarity? Should be marked on the underside of the inverter which is pos and neg. The female MC4 PIN is positive but dont forget youre looking at the metal pins and not the plastic housing.

For commissioning the HD wave inverters without display, theres no need for an external antenna as the inverter creates a local short range wifi signal to allow set app to connect. Your phone needs to be near the inverter to pick up the signal. My son in law setup the inverter we installed for him a few months back and it wasnt particularly intuitive what you had to do. Once it was up and running he thought he knew where hed gone wrong but I cant remember what he said!!

Lots of options already offered but something worth considering is your proximity to civilisation and likelyhood of extended power cuts. In the past weve been without electricity for 3 days over xmas so we would never rely on a full electric heating solution such HP. We currently heat with WBS and an LPG boiler as backup. DHW is from solar thermal with top up from the WBS in the winter. A small genny runs any or all of those if the power goes off which is typically a couple of days a year. If we go to a HP in the future it will be in addition to the WBS and bolier. If you include a large buffer now youll be able to have both gas and ASHP if youre happy to have 2 x standing charges. If youre even a touch remote get your spark to put in generator changeover switch and buy a small genny

Not sure how valid that schematic is as AFAIK if the Tesla gateway is used for power cut backup, it needs to be positioned between incoming supply and consumer unit so it can disconnect the house from the grid.

If you look at some of the Tesla app screen shots it details the power from SE as "solar" so its fair to assume that SE is wired into the Teslas solar input.

If the SE battery is DC coupled, the PW doesnt know if the SE inverter output is from PV or battery?? If SE sees the EV charging demand wont it start to power that load? Because PW assumes SE output is PV wont PW reduce output to let the SE "PV" fulfil the EV charging demand, so SE will discharge before PW???

Surely as they both see the grid demand intially rise then fall off as both batteries try to satisfy the demand, there wont be 2kw of surplus but both batteries could start to ocillate output?? If one battery is not quite as reactive to demand then the more reactive battery will supply all demand until its discharged??

As both batteries need to be configured to supply household load, which includes the other battery charging, are you saying run the AC connection cable for one battery through the other batteries CT?

Sparky is signing to say the installation is ok. Its up to him if hes happy to test/inspect someone elses work.

Not suggesting you use SE but just showing that you can have an array thats far bigger than the inverters rating. Check your preferred manufacturers spec to see if they are the same as it may save you changing your inverter?? We had an optimiser fail a few years ago and SE did remote diagnosis and sent a replacement straight away. I looked at the trust pilot reveiws and many are frustrations with installers and many are from the US posting on a UK web site. Not really a true reflection on SE, in my view and experience. Everyone gets shading as it includes segull s**t, saharan dust, algae, passing cloud shadows, snow, faulty module etc. With a conventionally wired system, the entire string output is reduced when any of the above happen to one or more panels. Youve also got individual panel monitoring with optimisers (or micro inverters) so you can see at a glance if youve got a problem. With conventionally wired panels it could take months or years to spot a problem, if ever!

Exact same time as our first system. It may have been a FIT banding limit that the installer worked to which is what limits ours to 4kwp of PV with a 4kw inverter that can take 5.4kwp of PV input.

If you are thinking storage for the entire winter then no it doesnt work like that unless you have container loads of batteries and a much larger array than 3.9kw to charge it through the summer. If you work out your approx daily usage in the winter then compare it to battery capacity youll likely see that a typical fully charged battery will only supply you for a day or 2 if youre frugal but much less with an ASHP. What a battery allows you to do is capture any excess from a sunny day and then use that excess to run the house in the evening/next morning before the sun is up again the next day. If the next day is dull youll be running on grid power pretty quickly depending on usage and battery capacity. To get significantly more self generation in the winter youll likely need an array significantly bigger than 3.9kw. If you google PVGIS theres a forecasting program that estimates by year/month/hour how much youll generate. Compare the forecast winter generation to your usage calcs and youll see what the shortfall is.

If you check your inverter specs, you could well be able to add those now👍