Dillsue

If youve got enough clearance above the HW cylinder you can get long immersions. Quick Google search says screwfix do a 3' one. That's gonna heat a fair bit of your average cylinder.

Ok. You'll need the right spark as theres a degree of live working!!

Grey box top right is for joining thick black cable to the grey cable that goes into man cave main switch. That goes completely. Black box top left is the Henley block that moves to where the grey box was. That leaves lots of extra space above the existing meter for your new smart meter. If you need more space to the side you can move the man cave main switch to the right a bit but I dont think youd need to. Should all make sense to your spark??

Other than a free smart meter theres not alot of tech needed that most people havent already got to use a fancy E7 tariff?? Trying to save a few £ with TOU and storage then you need to do your sums

Going back to your original pics, theres what looks like an armoured cable running up to the top right of your meter box. There's a gland showing so I assume there's the corner of a junction box showing? I guess this could be the supply to the man cave??. If it is, then you can gland the armoured cable into an angle bracket fixed to the side of your meter box and connect the cores directly into the fuse switch. You can then bin the junction box and move the Henley block to where the JB was. Plenty of room for a new meter then. If I'm guessing wrong then maybe post up a picture of the entire meter box to take the guesswork away.

We've had a Solaredge SE4000 in the loft since 2015 and the heat sink gets luke warm in the middle of summer. Mount it on a sheet of Hardie backer if youre concerned about it setting fire to the loft. If you use an inverter with a plastic case then more chance of that melting and catching fire if the electronics go south. If youre using a cheap inverter thats not on the ENA database then I'd be more concerned about quality than something the manufacturer has invested more time and effort in testing. I'm not sure a quality MC4 connector poses much risk if crimped with the correct tool. Ive seen a connector crimped with a pair of pliers that the cable pulled out of and thats likely where the risk with the connectors lies?.

Yep, prices shot up in spring last year with the rise in the price cap. If you bought before then everything would have been much cheaper

Interesting. Can you share make, wattage and where youre buying them??

Not sure why you'd need 3 phase?? We've got 2x3.68kw(7.3kw) inverters on a single phase connection so your 6kw could be doable on a single phase.

If you can't get enough heat transfer through a basic indirect coil, you can always add a solar coil to the immersion boss and series plumb the 2 coils. See solarcoil.co.uk. They do coils with an integrated electric element if you want to retain that feature.

Still a bit unsure of this "change"! In the FAQs they link to OFGEM guidance dated August 2021 Section 7.73 says "Where it is not possible or practical to measure export by export meter readings, deeming is permitted". If youve got a second non MCS system then its not possible to work out where any exported eleccy has come from so you can probably stay on deemed payments. Equally if you add a small battery or wind turbine youll likely be able to stay on deemed, if you want to

Do you have a link to the OFGEM news?? We've got a 4kw MCS installed FIT system and a second 8kw non MCS system. No smart meter just now but would be interesting to know how they would deal with payments if we had a smart meter fitted and a mix of MCS and non MCS generation going through the meter to export. A back door way to get paid for non MCS generated eleccy??

G98 is a notification for micro generation less than 16 amp(3.68kw) per phase G99 is an application for micro generation greater than 16 amp(3.68kw) per phase G100 is for export limition as a supplement to G99 if the DNO requires it I suspect most installs will only require a G98 notification

I know it's not what you want to here but its his word against yours if he's claiming you were party to moving the panels onto a more shade roof. Your best asking Which or citizens advice for more informed guidance. As the installer has offered to remedy all the defects, other than the disputed panel location, seems to me your best bet is to let him fix everything and trade off the loss of generation compensation youve been offered against the labour to move the panels.

And if you dont consent to that, just move the ASHP supply to your CU.

Maybe Im wrong but I seem to recall you saying the installer claiming you influenced the panel location. If its his word vs yours that would seem a bit grey legally. If youre happy to pay for which membership but then be told youve got limited/no grounds for a claim, then go for it. I beleive citizens advice will give you similar guidance for free

A slightly less draconian view than forced load shedding might be- Cabling direct to the meter box is the least disruptive. Or Its one less trade in the house. Or It can be done while the householder is at work Or Octopus may want to offer an attractive TOU tariff that includes disabling your ASHP

I'm pretty sure they've forcibly fitted prepayment meters where people havent paid their bills, not because someone's drawn a load they dont like

Other than the panel location, they've offered to remedy all the issues so you'll likely get nowhere legally. They've offered compensation for lost generation which seems quite a reasonable thing to do. If I remember correctly they claim they put the panels where they are at your request/concern so that issue is likely to go nowhere legally. Check the small print with Which legal as Id be surprised if they would cover preexisting disputes. Speak to citizens advice for free and impartial advice on the likelyhood of legal action being an option

For anyone concerned about big brother shutting down their ASHP from the meter box, just reroute the supply to somewhere you control. In the OPs case, route the supply to the spare RCBO in the CU. I'd be fairly sure that any HP that supports remote shutdown/throttling can have that feature disabled if big brother wants to tinker, without consent I can't see anyone routinely controlling power supply to a domestic property without consent. Might be financial penalties/benefits but likely always by agreement

The unconnected cables are likely to be the only safety issue youve got and I cant see NICEIC being particularly interested in the other issues including 2 (presumibly) qualified sparks arguing over whether an RCD is needed. Suggest you send NICEIC the photos of the live unconnected cables

Send her a photo of the dangling cables, tell her they are connected to live solar panels and will likely have 100's of DC volts on them. AFAIK theres no absolute requirement for an RCD and whether you need one depends on the type of cable from the inverter and how its been installed. NIEIC will be able to advise if the regs required an RCD to be fitted

AFAIK grid losses happen primarily through transformers and a bit from cabling over distance. House 1s PV is generated at 230vac at a ready to use voltage so no transformer losses. The PV will also likely supply nearby neighbours so minimal cable losses. For anything gas generated theres always transformer losses and unless you live next to a power station therell be some cable losses. Exactly how that impacts on your house 1 and 2 comparison I dont know as theres a multitude of variables!

I'm not sure that's correct. If you look solely at winter then house 1 does look bad but net result is the same for both houses when you look over the year. During the summer house 1s PV exports a significant proportion and displaces gas generation used by others, maybe even house 2s AC or EV charging.

Did they say why they've involved NICEIC? Most of the issues youve got are solar/MCS issues but if the dangling cables were connected to panels and live then NICEIC would have an interest in that