epsilonGreedy

I think her own admission that she instated the fence 4 years ago after the first public hearing at the village hall to assess the planning application, means the current fense position is not an historical fact beyond debate. The now disappeared hedge remnants closer to the Land Registry boundary as shown in the 2006 Google Maps survey reinforce my claim that the boundary was moved ahead of planning permission and development work.

The section of the boundary in dispute does not have a hedge. According to the neighbour he fence was erected 4 years ago. A Google maps image from about 2006 shows some unhealthy hedge remnants where the Land Registry map indicates the boundary should be, these hedge remnants have now been replaced with mowed lawn. The neighbour's garage built soon after they moved in 50 years ago. I have taken a screenshot from the excellent Nimbus online plot mapping system which I assume is derived from Land Registry maps. The map is interactive and when a plot is clicked the area is highlighted in blue and the acreage is calculated. For scale the building shown is a single garage. Her plot is the blue area. The disputed fence is shown about 2m to the right of the blue at the edge of the private drive though in reality it bends another 1ft further right as it runs up to the public road in white. The area in dispute is 4m x 2m running from the south elevation of the garage down to the public road. My land is the finger which includes the left side of the private drive which is shared with the self build property to the right of the red boundary line.

My brickie automatically inset the dpc a few mm so that the external pointed finish did not expose the edge of the dpc. I questioned this practice in the first hour of above dpc laying and he offered to change to marginally exposed dpc if that was my preference but he advised the amount of moisture uptake through a thin crust of pointed up mortar was trivial. I am in low rainfall area and as with many building debates, local practice may reflect the local environment. How old is this warranty inspector? p.s. I have 3 courses of engineer blues below damp which form an additional barrier to rising damp.

I was prepared to ignore the problem until the very old lady sold up, she only visits 4 to 6 weeks a year. Now my new neighbour who purchased a completed new build opposite is having to repair his hedge base when it is clipped by traffic.

My neighbour's fence, which is on my land according to the Land Registry, needs to be moved. The old post and rail fence deviates 2.5m into my plot over a 5m distance. My elderly neighbour is refusing to engage in any meaningful conversation on the subject. There is an imperative to sort this sooner rather than later because the old fence is preventing delivery vans entering the shared private drive on a reasonable arc and as a result vehicles are clipping the boundary hedge of another new-build neighbour. I need someone with access to high resolution Land Registry maps to visit and mesure up the plots with an open mind. Which section of the yellow pages would I find such an expert?

He had a special relationship with my site Portaloo. The inspector is into his 70's and found my site geographically convenient.

I am not yet at 1st fix and have lost count of the visits from my private building control inspector. Some visits detor into a general chinwag on politics and the state of the world.

A 10mm dpc projection is bonkers and as suggested it will stick out horizontally due to the rigidity of dpc plastic and act as a rain catcher. I suggest the OP makes a stand against this errant warranty inspector and raise hell with the superiors. It is important to get the upper hand at this stage as there will be subsequent disagreement so it is necessary to gain the psych-ops warfare advantage.

With a further design enhancement I think it has potential as a weapon to resolve neighbourly disputes. Some days I feel the need to nuke local trouble makers with a ballistic LPG missile.

I was thinking about the inner block wall that contributes to supporting a 1.8m all chimney on a hipped roof. The corbeled plinth for this is built over three blocks and I reckon it takes about 500Kg of the total 780Kg weight of the chimney when wind pressure is zero. If my calculation of 16.6 tons per 3.7N block is correct, then my 780kg chimney is many factors within the 50 ton support limit of those 3 blocks even allowing +10% for a rain sodden chimney and wind pressure. I still like the idea of enhancing the lateral stability of the block wall with 12mm cement board like Hardiebacker.

This is my motivation for thinking about building a low rise wall to screen the ASHP and LPG bottles. I need to screen them from public view and due to the plot orientation the side of the house can be seen from a public road until a hedge becomes established.

This point is a concern. I was thinking of a low rise wall about 1.5m long positioned about 2m back from the house wall and just high enough to screen the top of the ASHP. If there were no sides to the screen could it still impede airflow? We cooked off a pair of 47Kg bottles for three years in our previous house and reckoned a single bottle lasted a year+. In the new build the main oven will be electric so LPG will just be consumed by the gas hob. Those tall 47Kg bottles would be more difficult to screen. Swmbo is accustomed to boat cooking where a 3.5Kg bottle does not last a 2 week holiday.

I am starting to think ahead to external locations for an ASHP and a medium size 20kg LPG bottle. Given the gas hob position in the kitchen layout, external planning sensitivities and UFH pipe routing I have concluded it would be simplest to create a low rise screen for both the LPG tank and ASHP unit co-located on a concrete platform. Would this transgress any gas fitting regulations?

According to my maths the answer is 16.6 tons which is just silly. Could someone spot the error in the following arithmetic? A 3.7N rated block should cope with a compressive load of 3.7N per mm squared. The surface area of a standard 100mm wide block is 100mm x 440mm = 44,000 mm squared. Therefore a block can support 44,000 x 3.7N = 162,800N before it is at risk of crumbling under the total load above. There are 9.8N in a Kg* which means a block can support 162,800 / 9.8N = 16.6 tons. * For the scientifically pedantic this might not apply in Cornwall or on Planet @SteamyTea.

@MortarThePointHas your architect specified full 100mm brick reveals? As you can see in the thread this finishing detail is an issue for some of us. Catnic lintels are black but unfortunately these were a special order to Lincolnshire. Catnic is a dosy provincial outfit to try and deal direct with. Keystone lintels have a galvanized colour finish. I might try and disguise my Keystones once the full brick reveal windows are fitted.

Ah, that makes more sense than 26mm thick roof trusses.

Yes I was considering PIR under the attic floor. Should I plan to add additional bearers over the top of the truss joists to spread the load before laying 18mm or 22mm flooring? Here is the design for one of the attic trusses. If the 26 means a 1" thickness, this feels too slender to me.

I am looking at a quote for roof trusses where the design has been specified for a "tank load". Is a tank load good enough for an above average amount of general domestic storage in a boarded attic space? Access to the attic will be via a pull down loft ladder. The attic will not have a water tank and a bit of reading indicates a tank in an roof design is assumed to be up to 300 litres. My concern is that over the years the amount of stuff in the attic might creep over 300kg. Background: I asked the truss manufacturer to incorporate attic trusses in the quote because we intend to develop a small storage space 4m x 2.5m up in the attic, this will not have standing headroom because the ridge is only 1.8m due to the 30 degree pitch. The truss clear span is 5.4m and the attic trusses have a predicted weight of 40kg with 147mm x 26mm section timber. My intuition is that 1" wide timber for an attic truss is a bit feeble on 600mm centres.

I have a fancy buff brick blend prescribed for my new build which is in the centre of a conservation area village, this is unlikely to match any GRP brick finishes. When I started my build I assumed the non working chimney would be a non masonry stick on false chimney stack. Recently I got a quote for an unclad false 1.8m tall chimney which was not far short of £2k. Even when clad with only 20mm slips this would have been too heavy to manually lift into place which meant asking my brickie to clad it insitu with some very expensive glue. This cladding process would have required 45 degree bevel cuts on the outer corners. Mounting one of these is not trivial particularly given the free standing height. My understanding is that the weight of a full brick chimney provides the lateral stability to resist window force hence in the absence of much weight in a false chimney some chunky fixing mechanism is needed. After thinking through this option for a week I decided to go for a full brick chimney sitting on a corbel. When my brickie, building control inspector and retired builder advisor all said a corbel plinth would be up to the job, it was simpler to follow their collective wisdom. I think a grp chimney would make sense when the chimney is short and mounted within a gable end and conventional ridge.

I though SAP was an eco goodness index that does not track cost directly?

@Taff Wales? Shame you are not closer because I have 1/2 a drum of the cable lost in the hedge behind my static caravan. Open Reach abandoned it after linking up mine and another self build.

The same chemical is rebottled as expensive teak deck cleaner for boats, I have used it many times and the transformation is remarkable. I don't know if the extra additives in the yachtie version make a difference, it is usually sold as a two bottle two stage cleaning process. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wessex-Teak-Cleaner-Renovator-parts/dp/B00B6BKS8G

I have the same laser and would not expect it to work at 20m in full daylight. It does work at twilight, I know this because last month I got up at 3am to project a laser line onto some nearby roof tops relative to my wall plate height in order to gauge my final ridge height. In the early morning gloom I could see the red line on other properties up to 25m away.

I have done that a few times when it was too hot to cut a block, the problem is that in the OP's case of a single block wall the brick will either protrude a bit being wider than 100mm or if turned the other way there will be a dip to fill.

An excellent initiative, quick to get under way unike big civil engineering projects, labour and material intensive hence instant economic activity and recurring payback for the nation as a whole. On the downside could this lead to insulation material inflation? I might need to pre purchase this for my own self build. Final devious thought. If I finished my new build with inline wallas heaters couped to the UFH could I get the Government to fund an ASHP?