epsilonGreedy

Ok I am convinced, I need a sliding mitre saw and now I have a few pre purchase questions. I assume a 12" model would be OTT, so where would I find an 8" blade limiting compared to my current notion that a 10" blade is about right. Please note I am not doing a TF build. The other feature I am not knowledgeable enough to assess is single or double bevel. Am I correct in thinking the only downside of a single bevel is the time wasted swapping long timbers around plus some extra mental maths to account for things being reversed.

Yes indeed, simple agricultural and effective.

One motivation is wanting easy access to the attic space above the internal utility room this is built into the garage, this will be accessible from the car parking side of the garage. I was also impressed by a barn style garage built by a neighbour in my previous village, this had a cut roof and some useful storage had then been developed within the attic space. It seems counter intuitive but having looked at other garages I do not feel that a raft of closely spaced spindly trusses, actively promote useful accessible attic storage. I could be wrong and so would be interested to hear about garage attic space storage with trusses.

What Regs other than SAP calcs? I thought SAP calculations are typically done by independents working for you direct or indirectly through whoever produces your technical drawing for BC. Part of the definition of "the job" is the subsequent verification of the final build and production of thermal performance certification.

Has this worked? In the past I was not sure if the creaking was from the fascia board.

I imagine the figures exclude the cost of excavation into the gradient of your site as this was site specific? What about the laying down of hardcore to create a stable plinth for the insulation build up, was this work included in the quote? I ask because I am just trying to assess the overall cost compared to traditional footings.

Not sure about parking assist but has potential as a refueling labour saving device. Now back to that film, have they found a politically correct name for the dog yet?

One reason I am looking into a cut roof is that I want to develop the space above the utility room ceiling that is incorporated into the garage, there should be 4m3 of easy access storage there.

I lay awake at night contemplating lateral forces from my hip and common rafters. By a stroke of luck the dividing wall (5m) between the garage parking area and the utility room of the garage sits right under one end of the ridge. This wall will be a cavity block wall and I intend to run a wood wall plate along this linked to the wall plates along the main walls. If I then add a couple of rafter support uprights supported from this wall roughly where an attic truss would have uprights then I hope this end of the roof will be suitable stiffened. The ceiling of the utility room 5.0m x 2.4m will have joists fixed to the wall plates so that should deal with the corner rafter lateral loads The other end of the garage ridge has a brick lean-to shed 3.3m which will buttress the 5.6m end wall. This leaves the lateral forces spreading out along the ridge 1.65m. I reckon the minimum starting point is a chunky beam to tie the opposing walls together an hence resist the lateral spreading.

Would building control need to see an engineering design for a cut roof? I understand that when engineered trusses are specified from an external source, BC accept the engineering competence of the truss supplier. I am just thinking about the garage roof at this point which is 7.2m x 5.6m hipped, 30 degree pitch with a slate covering specified, so not a large weight from an engineering perspective.

I will study the remake of the Dambusters for tips on optical parking guidance.

Yes, the external dimension is 5.6m I will probably be back here in a couple of years to design an IR beam / visual feed back gadget to help with inching up to the back wall.

Yes I intend the door position to be off centre to the actual parking floor space, I can get away with this aesthetically because there is another 2.9m of garage width to the left in addition to the 4.1m discussed so far, this is where the horse used to be stabled in my faux cart-barn. The overall width I am playing with is: 300 wall 2400 stably bit 300 wall 4100 parking bit (500 + 2500-door + 1000) 300 wall 2100 brick lean-to store 300 wall

Not sure, I will go for a walk around the village and see what the locals do. Maybe I am confused by the local look where the roof gutter detail is devoid of a chunky what box section, it is possible there is a minimal fascia that leaves the lower portion of rafters exposed. I aspire to something like this for the garage...

You are correct about the length constraint. I just have to accept this is how things landed after a contentious planning cycle with 60 neighbour comments lodged on the original application. A Ford Focus is 4.4m long which suits current our requirements.

In the absence of any guidance this is what I would do, I assume the outer brick skin does not support the rafter overhang so the priority with this finishing detail is to just keep things weather proof and incorporate some form of cavity cap to ensure the blown beads do not scatter in all directions later in the build. I will be doing the garage first which incorporates an 8' x 16' room so this portion will be finished like the main house.

Hmmm, so 2.5m equates to little more than a handspan either side of that Mondeo's door mirrors. I will be leaving the door aperture open until I can afford a decent sectional door.

I forgot to mention this is for a hipped roof. The finished height of the outer brick skin I am thinking about is the final 1 1/2 courses tucked behind the gutter.

The local rural style is to incorporate metal gutter supports into the brickwork, otherwise everything looks minimal with no fascia.

I am trying to picture the sequence of events as a roof is constructed on top of masonry walls. I understand that in structural terms the roof rafters sit on the inner block wall once a wooded wall plate 100mm x 50mm has been fixed in place. My question relates to the outer brick skin. Would brickies build this up to finished height before the roof is added by calculating the drop of the rafters for the roof gradient or is the brick wall bought up to the after height once the roof is in place? For a 100/100/100 cavity wall and a 30 degree roof pitch my calcs show the outer wall is 115mm lower + an allowance for a birds tooth cut out if applicable.

Mention of the lintel leads to more questions. I am considering an oak goalpost to create the impression of a barn and this leads to the question whether the common rafters of a cut hipped roof could structurally rest on the oak beam. The ridge of the 30 degree hipped roof is only 1650 long and two common rafters leading off the ridge would intersect with the horizontal of the oak goalpost lintel if I omitted a lintel aligned with the inner block cavity wall. A green oak frame fabricator suggested a 7" square oak frame for this job (just the goal post, not the roof) however I cannot find an online resource that describes the structural characteristics of oak at similar dimensions.

Is this an accidental duplicate post?

What garage door width would suit a large'ish single garage 4.1m wide x 5.0m deep? We do not own any oversize vehicles. I expect to routinely garage one car each night during the winter. There is an 8m turning circle in front of the garage, no main road traffic concerns and plenty of space either side on the drive for 3-point turns.

No window planned though I take your point. This brick lean-to shed is really an architectural feature to break up the basic garage rectangle in a sensitive rural spot and is under a cat-side roof, 1/3 of the floor space will not have full standing headroom so I was viewing it as store room with lots of shelves or a possible sauna. As part of the planning revision I was going to extend the store's cat-side roof by one rafter to create an external overhang for covered bin storage and a log store.

I was trying to gauge how you and your original quoting builders viewed the project. If you are expecting to retain plasterboard ceilings and other room finishes during the building transformation then this implies a surgical operation with tight weather windows and will require an experienced builder to mastermind. I am reminded of a family member who got succored into a similar project with the promised she could remain in the house during the transformation but 2 months in even the builder admitted defeat and she had to move out. My hunch is that a roof-off/extend/new-roof building upgrade is more challenging than a clean sheet new build from a beginner diy perspective.