Roger440

These guys seem pretty good. And significantly cheaper than the likes of watco. Been using their floor paint. Seems top quality. (ive used a few............) https://fixmaster.co.uk/categories/repair-products

It still wont soak the entire brick. Its impossible. It cant work. Unless you house is built of sponges! My house has had it done. Line off tell tale holes around the base of wall. Had zero effect. Walls are damp, inevitably. Gypsum plater inside, concrete floor with DPM undr, render painted with modern plastic paint. The perfect recipe for damp. As it happens, we removed the plaster today. Sockets are 400mm up the wall. The steel back boxes are terminally rusty. The srcews holding the rads on, terminaly rusty. Chemical DPC not doing whats its claimed, thats one certainty.

Unless you can "fix" the DPC properly, it needs to dissipate the moisture through whatever is on the wall both sides. Ie, breathable. And dont let the drivel on modern coatings that claim to be breathable fool you. There is a measure for the breathability. Compare that number to actual lime based poducts and you will see the issue. That said, just talk to the lime guys and be guided by them.

Thats what im using for the floor in the old part of the cottage.

Yes, this website^^^^. And read all of it.

420 is rather a lot. Solutions aside, thats the water table now. Id suggest that at times it will be higher.

You could look at it another way. And some evidence it actually works? Think about it. A man will drill some holes in you wall and inject "something". This something needs to permeate through the bricks and mortar to such an extent that they form a barrier impervioius to water. Its simply not credible. Get a brick drop it in a bucket of water for a week, then cut it in half. I bet you its dry in the middle. Thats a week in water. But a bloke with a mastic gun is going to squirt something into you brick to make it completely waterproof in a few hours. Doesnt look like the damp comes up far enough to be a problem?

OOh, and a chemical DPC us just a scam, as already pointed out. Dont waste your time or money.

Once you have read the heritage house website, you will, hopefully realise, that with a compromised DPC, you are not fixing your damp issue, merely covering it up. With a DPC on the inside, and EWI on the outside, your wall will be wet forever. As one of the videos says, if you wash your clothes, put them in a plastic bag, and hang them on the washing line, what do you think will happen. This is, effectively, what your proposal does. Either you need to fix the dpc properly, or treat the building as though it doesnt have one. The fact the floor was rotten says you have a problem with moisture, Dumping a load of concrete in there wont fix it. You need to understand the reason why first and work from there.

Our posts overlapped. Not much point using sheepswool if you slap plasterboard over it. Plasterboard will prevent moisture leaving the wall. If you are allowing breathability, it has to be every layer, including the paint. One "waterproof" layer will render your efforts worthless.

Given its age i would tread very carefully. It wont have a damp proof course, so the walls and floor will need to breathe or they will get wet (probably are now.) Most insulation systems will prevent that from taking place, storing up future trouble. Id suggest a peruse here would be a good idea. https://www.lime.org.uk/ Im just about to use their sublime insulated floor system. Periodproperty forum is good too, though some of them can be a bit harrdcore!

What mr punter said. Ventilation. Where is it? The vapour barrier is a red herring. My previous hgose was a 30's semi, just platerboard and 100mm rockwoll. Totally bone dry. Never an issue in 80 years. Why. Ventilation. On a windy day it was plenty draughty up there. This looks like its sealed up.

The damp is coming from somewhere. And is has to go somewhere. So you now have concrete floor with a dpm, pushing it out to the walls. And you are going to insulate and render it outside. So you would, effectively waterprofed / sealed it. So the damp has nowhere else to go other than come out inside. Id guess the render you hacked off was also cement based? Your wall is no different, it has moisture in, it needs to evaporate. It cant, or couldnt, other than internally. If you cover that up with say, tanking, you wont "see" the damp, but your walls will be wet forever. As one of the videos on heritage house say, if you wash you clothes, put then in a bin bag and hang them on the washing line, what do you think will happen? If you left the render and insulation off, i suspect it would dry out in due course. Rule of thumb is 1 inch per month. Its 9 inches thick. It needs to breathe. Lime, lime lime. As per the heritage house site. In a new house, there would be a dpc in the brickwork to prevent this. You could try retrospectively installing, but thats a big undetaking. And runs the risk of the bricks below the DPC being permaently wet, which may, or may not be a long term issue. Theres a reason they use concrete block now. The front of my house is the same construction. It was damp all the time in there. 90+ humidity, permanently. Reduced the ground levels outside, removed the plastic dpc from under the floor, removed the render on the INSIDE. Put a vented cap on what was an open chimney. 12 months later, i can drill into a brick and it comes out as dust, not a slurry. Room sits at 60-65% humidity all the time. Ive still to remove the modern paint off the lime render outside, but it doest reach the floor so im getting away without it. Everything you could want to know is on the heritage house website. These links might be useful too:http://www.mikewye.co.uk/ & https://www.lime.org.uk/

Oh dear. Did you aquant yourself with the link above? I suggest you do so asap before you do anything else. Installing your dpc and slab "may" be making it woirse not better. Periodproperty forum is a good source of info too. Im about to do mine. There wont be any DPC or concrete!

If you check some other walltite videos, you will see it goes in as a liquid. there wont be voids. It can be used to crate flood proof walls.

What a fantastic place

We took the decision not to enable purchase of anything thats not out of stock. If you want to order something not in stock, you can only do it by phone or email. If its for something thats a stock item (prob about 95% of orders) we dont take payment until its physically in our warehouse and ready to ship. With all the current delays, whilst there may be some grumblings, nobody is out of pocket. Avoids all the upset, aggravation etc. Plus i can sleep at night as i dont have a stack of other peoples money for suff i cant ship.

I borrowed a clamop meter. not conviunced on calibration, and it was very sensitive. But it showed 5 amps running, but when it started ti struggle, and then pulse it would rise to 15 amps Interesting point about the cap. After some suggestions elsewhere, getting it hot first made all the difference. I ran it offlosad for an hour, and then reconnected. It was fine from that point on, until it didnt run for an hour or so, then it was back to tripping out. Ive also discovered putting a sump heater on the compressor is a done thing. All that sais, after using air most of yesterday, ive concluded that it isnt really big enough. For a 3hp compressor, air output is poor compared to my old piston compressor. Im going to last that in and see how that performs. Other than very noisey!!!

Its main issue it wont start from cold. Once its nice and hot, its fine. But it doesnt really run long enough to get properly hot.

Oil about a year old. But barely been used until recently. I dont really understand what effect the caps have, or how i can know if they need replacing?

Its 150psi, which is what its supposed to be. It worked fine in the previous workshop. Thats not to say its not developed a faul of course.

The compressor itself trips out. I assume some king of ovrload or thermal trip.

I should probably clarify. The breaker doesnt trip. The motor pulses, and after 5-15 seconds, the compressor trip operates. Leave it a minute or 2 and you can have another go. Usually with the same result. Its a hydrovane compressor. It works fine at work. The farmer also confirmed his compressor used to do the same occasionally when it was in the same building (well the other side of the wall.)

Terminals all checked. Done that Im not seeing a volt drop with a meter plugged in to the socket thats its plugged in to. But i do see a rapid climb in current consumption when its about to cut out. Supply comes from the other half of the building. Its the incoming to that that i think is the issue. A small bit sticks out of the ground. Ive got 16mm armoured under my drive. Its WAY bigger than that. But thats not to say its that size all the way. Difficult to know. Not my farm

In the abscense of a garage at the moment, im renting a workshop at the local farm. Sadly, it seems the incoming electrical supply isnt up to much. Most stuff is OK, but the compressor is an issue. Basically, it struggles to start. The colder it is, the worse it gets, no doubt due to drag increasing on the motor. Clearly the right answer is to upgrade the incoming power supply. But not my farm or my building. Given the problem is only on start up, and just before it trips out at peak pressure, i only need short periods of extra incoming. Ive tried to find a solution, but not sure im using the right terms. Are the products avalable, such as a battery bank etc, that will, effectively support those peak loads? Im not sure im explaining it well, but hopefully the brighter minds than mine here might have some ideas? Im keen to avoid a generator as this is way to much messing about, though clearly, its an option. Thoughts?