SteamyTea

Cold showers are what you need. ♫Rich man sweatin' in a sauna bath Poor boy scrubbin' in a tub Me, I stay gritty up to my ears Washin' in a bucket of mud♫

Especially if you paid nearly $120/br for oil.

Thinking a bit more about it. Air pressure is what is actually doing the driving, PV/T. Change any one if them, with volume being hard to change, and properties change. This can also be affected by the Venturi effect around the building, which even in a light breeze probably has a greater effect.

A bit about exothermic and endothermic reactions here. https://chem.libretexts.org/Bookshelves/Physical_and_Theoretical_Chemistry_Textbook_Maps/Supplemental_Modules_(Physical_and_Theoretical_Chemistry)/Chemical_Bonding/Fundamentals_of_Chemical_Bonding/Bond_Energies

That is what I was questioning. I don't know the answer.

I don't think it needs an extra supply of oxygen as they already have the oxygen chemically bonded in the molecules. This seems to be the problem. Just a look at the chemistry shows the oxygen attached. LiFePO4, Li4Ti5O12 or LiCoO2. When working at normal temperatures, the molecules stay intact, but at elevated temperatures, some of the oxygen can break loose and react with the lithium, which releases energy. Energy is released (generally) when a molecular bond is either formed or broken. Yes, why submerging them gets the temperature down and the reactions slow. Oxygen is not the only gas that aids combustion, try fluorine, it can 'oxidise' oxygen. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxygen_fluoride

I wonder how effective they are when a lithium battery fire starts. Battery fires are generally self sustaining until the fuel runs out, so getting the temperature down is the key element to tackle, a domestic sprinkler system may not deliver enough water, for long enough. Just speculating as I don't know the ins and outs of domestic sprinkler systems. We have a fire suppression system in our works kitchen. It is filled with ANSULEX Low pH Liquid Agent, what ever that is. Sounds like a treatment for piles.

The 'glazing' is multi wall poly carbonate sheets, they go 'milky' after a short time and look dreadful. Do they offer an acrylic option ?

BSI PAS are technical specifications and not laws, or even minimum standards. While I am not saying they should be ignored, and may even be specified within laws, it would be so much easier if Building Act was available to the public free of charge. Though a quick web search did throw up this. https://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/1984/55/data.pdf https://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/1986/44/contents https://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/1989/15/contents https://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/2022/30/contents So maybe government is getting a bit more open.

Octopus has just put a £75 exit fee in place on new policies. https://moneytothemasses.com/news/octopus-energy-announces-new-exit-fees-due-to-volatile-market

Here it is: https://www.facit-homes.com/

Was there not a couple of Hipsters doing that on Grand Design over a decade ago?

You have not seen the price of cod recently, we stopped selling it a while back. Now this is oil prices, let us see how far the go and for how long. Data is up to March 1st Two charts, nominal price and inflation adjusted for WTI crude. Data from here

Iran has large oil reserves (as does Venesuala), but it's production is not that great, and it used half of that domestically. https://www.worldometers.info/oil/iran-oil/ The biggest problem is shipping in the Straits of Hormuz. Once those ships, that can get through (why their navy has been obliterated first) have been reassigned to pick up in other places (probably the USA), thing will calm down a bit. Brent Crude is at 92 USD at the moment. Higher than it has been, but not exceptionally high.

Better to invest the same amount of cash in defense and medical shares.

Means 'does not fracture'. Usually means it does not get work hardened, which a lot of metals suffer from without treatment, usually thermal. The really hard one to understand it 'toughness'. I was told it was a combination of many of the physical properties, but was never happy with that explanation. Usually used as a volumetric measure to resist fracturing.

Is the error code in here, I think it is a multi unit board. 1496_1011026-dtp-control-panel-en-gb---issue-02.pdf

Young's Modulus is all you need to know. As you tighten a bolt, or screw, it stretches, so gets a little thinner. The idea is to stretch it enough to hold itself in place, and allow for some more stretching when extra loads are imposed. There is a limit, called the elastic limit. Below the elastic limit, the bolt/screw will return to its original shape, pass the elastic limit, called the yield point, the material is failing and does not return to its original shape. Once a bolt/screw has been overtightened (the yield point reached), any extra load deforms the material and failure is happening. This may not be visually apparent at first, but it is failing. Alternatively, tighten till it goes loose, then back half a turn.

Makes a change from counting the number of windows.

4.2 [kJ.kg-1.K-1] x 400 [kg] x (52 - 8) [ΔT] *0.00027778 [kJ to kWh conversion] = 20.5 kWh 20.5 [kWh] / 5 [kW] = 4.1 hours Now that is the worse case, so probably get that down to 2 hours as DHW, generally, is of no use below 30°C and you will not be using all of it.

what size is your DHW cylinder?

Whoops, 0.00027778 (fat fingers on a small screen) Whoops again, autocorrect.

There is a bit of terminology to learn. Energy is measured in MJ (megajoule). A joule is the standard unit for energy and when converted to base units of kilograms, metres and seconds is very small. Why the M for 1,000,000 is added at the front. Now no one, apart from us nerdy scientists, use MJs, and domestic energy is metered and purchased in kWh. MJs can be multiplied by 0.0007778, or divided by 3600 to end up with kWh. The k just means 1000, W is watt and h is an hour, which is 3600 seconds. Power (W) is the rate that energy is used. You can think of this as your miles per gallon in your car, with energy being how many gallons are in the tank. If your car does 40 MPG at 60 MPH, and your tank has 8 gallons in it, you can drive 320 miles over 5 hours and 20 minutes. A unit of power is called a watt, which is actually a J/second. Again a small unit, so a k is added. A k is 1000. This gives the more normal kW for a power rating. Boilers, heat pumps and even wood burners all have a maximum kW rating i.e. 6 kW. Radiators, UFH and fan heaters also have a power rating. (This can get confused by some people talking old imperial units of BTU and BTU/h, but we went metric in ,'73, so tell them off) Where it starts to get confusing is a house will need a varying amount of thermal power to keep it at a steady internal temperature. This is caused by external temperatures rising and falling during the seasons and even during the day. This can be overcome in a number of ways. The easy way, and the way old heating systems were set up, was to fire up a boiler at full power, heat some water, pump it around the house to all the radiators, which then heated the air. When the house was up to temperature, the thermostat turned the boiler off. When the temperature dropped a few degrees, it turned the boiler back on. These days we are a bit more sophisticated and try to deliver enough energy to match the losses. This keeps the house at a steadier temperature, and used less energy overall. You will almost certainly read on hear about weather compensation (WC). This is just a basic feedback system that knows what the outside temperature is, how much power is being delivered to the house and for how long it may be needed. All that can be boiled down to a few numbers. The main numbers you need to know are the thermal losses for each room. Once those are added together, you get a number for the whole house. It is usual to size for a worse case i.e. -10°C outside. This gives you a maximum power requirement (heat source kW). Most of the time, you will be heating the house when it is way warmer outside, so the second number you need is about how much the heat source can be turned down internally. This is called modulation. Gas boilers have quite a high ratio, sometimes 10 to 1 i.e. 12 kW down to 1.2 kW. Heat pumps are not, generally, so good and are often in the range of 3 to 4 to 1. There are ways around this, but that is for later. The other thing that is important is domestic hot water (DHW). There are two ways to do this. Heat water only when it is needed (instantaneous), this requires a lot of power, often over 25 kW. Or Heat and store in a cylinder. This method takes longer for the same amount of delivered hot water, but used less power, often in the region of 3 to 6 kW. If the heat source is delivering both central heating and DHW, then this needs to be taken into account. With modern combination gas boilers, they are sized to deliver enough hot water, and rely on boiler modulation to deliver lower power for the space heating. Heat pumps, generally, rely on being only slightly oversized (which improves efficiency most if the time) and run a space heating time slot and a DHW timeslot at different temperatures and different times during the day. There is a lot of detail in heating design. So questions to ask are. Maximum house losses. Room by room heat losses. DHW reheat times.

Is it (expletive deleted)

I am sure mine does that, easily, since I put a RamAir sticker on the back.