SteamyTea

That is about 2.9 MWh of primary energy.

Yes. I think the sizes are based on the rough sawn size, not the finished size. https://www.ryedaletimber.co.uk/blog/regularised-timber-sizes-uk-guide-to-nominal-vs-finished-dimensions/

1 kg of seasoned hardwood has approximately 4.5 kWh of energy in it, when burnt in ideal conditions. As wood burners are not very efficient devises, you probably need to halves that. So a 5 kW one will, if run properly, will take 2 kg an hour, but probably closer to 3 kg. Burners can be adjusted to moderate thermal output, but that not only hurts efficiency, it also changes the combustion chemistry. Depending on the temperature of combustion, you also get varying amounts of particulates. Then there is the land area needed to grown the timber. A metre² of land in the UK gets around 950 kWh of solar energy on it, trees convert, at best, 0.25% of that to timber. So sub 0.2 kWh/year.m². So to run a 5 kW burner for 1 hour is going to take, at very best, 15 m² of land. Then you got the timber transport, storage, conditioning and waste disposal. Do you really want a wood burner. Most houses got central heating in the 1950s and 60s.

Does it match the left handed Stanley knife?

Here is a pdf of a useful book. Heat_Pumps_for_the_Home_-_John_Cantor.pdf

That diagram shows very little in reality. Have you had a heat loss calculation done? This is what sets the size of the heat pump (or any other thermal source) before DHW considerations, the length and spacing of the UFH pipework, the number, type and size of any radiators. There are also other factors to take into account such as ACH, MVHR volumes and efficiencies, window sizes and orientations, PV. The main things to understand is the difference between power [kW] and energy [kWh], temperature differences [ΔT], mass flow rates [], heat and specific heat capacities [C and c], temperature [K or °C] is not power or energy and that generally, in a modern house or any sort, the space heating loads are quite small, often in the region of 2 to 3 kW at a Δ20K. Some rudimentary understanding of weather is also helpful i.e. we very rarely get extremely low, or high, temperatures for very long periods of time. If you want that, move to Canada. The main thing to watch out for is grossly oversized system, which your diagram seems to show. Generally buffer tanks/ volumisers/low loss headers are not needed on a well designed system, but they do all have their place in some designs. It may seem like a mine field, but once numbers are put into the design, it all starts to make sense. Without the numbers, you get badly designed systems that are inefficient.

Can you specify that they must not use one. As pointed out above, it is not just the wiring load, there is also the problems with the kit cluttering up the place and possibly falling. It is not unusual to make minor changes to contracts.

It's easy, just pamper to the electorates fears. Tell them it's someone else's fault, promise them something and hope you don't get caught for past crimes. Oh, and a 3 word slogan. "Lie, lie, lie'

On the face of it they seem quite sensible.

A relatively easy way to check that is look at windspeed and direction when it is raining. Them compare to water getting in. Find your local WeatherUnderground station and see some actual numbers.

Why I suggested keeping an eye on it.

If insulated, yes, possibly. Won't happen on the inside as that is already full of condensated water vapour.

@richo106 Keep an eye on the buffer tank, that may get condensation. And let us all know how the cold showers go down, then we know something went wrong in the setup.

Temperature will effect capillary action. So quite possible that the electro-mechanical forces will change between the hot and cold sides.

I think you are misunderstanding me. The sprung mass should not touch the main, load bearing, structures.

I am currently reading Howard Mark's Mr. Nice. Seems you can buy anything, anywhere.

I am just looking at public liability insurance. I need insurance to take some stuff into an insured building. I flippantly asked if I can get insurance to cover neither of the insurances paying out. Got a blank stare. It is all about mitigating risk, not electrical engineering.

Spoonerism Monthly sent me a T-shirt with Shining Wit on it.

Secured to what? If it is the main structure then yes, moot. But if connected to the plasterboard, effectively an vibrationally isolated box, within a box, then not moot.

Reading this week's comic leader about renaming, and this was in there. "Meanwhile, “net zero”, once a technical term, has become unmoored from its true meaning and is often used by opponents to mean “an environmental policy I don’t like”." Sums it up better than I do.

You can add some sound deadening between the floor and joists. In effect, a resilience bar. Be interesting how resilience bars works for a floor, it is more normally rubber strips.

Yes. It does depend on what the aim is. Noise is just a change in air pressure, which is usually short term in a house (you can unplug the TV/PCs and Stereos). Living next to a very busy road, on a hill, by a roundabout, is very different from dealing with strange noises from a bathroom.

"From tiny acorns, mighty oaks do grow" (before you know it, you are a self builder, which is shorthand for a gibbering, bankrupt, wreck, who has had no life for a decade)

By the time you have used a dozen EPC assessors, to find the one that gives you the result you want, it would be cheaper to just put the house right. I really don't think it is sensible to suggest that the assessor is asked to cheat. I have had too many experiences recently dealing with cheating and lying customers. No one benefits.

Resilience bars are just springs (simple harmonic motion rules). One end should be fitted solidly to the wall/stud/whatever, while the other end is free to move, unhindered. If the free end (the side the plasterboard screws to) is rubbing against the wall, then there is unnecessary friction, this needs to be avoided. So I would take it all down, move the bars a few millimetres, and reattach the plasterboard. As you are double boarding, are your resilience bars rated for the extra load? To use an automotive analogy, imagine you are driving over a speed bump and your front suspension bottoms out, then you run over a brick, your suspension has used up all its travel, so all the loads are now transmitted directly to the bodywork. Basically, you have no suspension or damping.