Triassic Posted March 31, 2019 Share Posted March 31, 2019 (edited) I have a gap between the top of my insulated walls where the roof trusses sit on the wall plate. Can I simply fill it with insulation and foam around any gaps? Edited March 31, 2019 by Triassic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iSelfBuild Posted March 31, 2019 Share Posted March 31, 2019 We added noggins between the rafters and ladders above the wall plate to stop any twisting. I think you would be best with a bit of bracing but since you ordered a timber frame they would have surely done it at that point as part of the package if it was necessary? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted March 31, 2019 Share Posted March 31, 2019 Let me get this right. Your roof build up is ' normal ' and in the top-most photograph in the back of the photo, we can see the ridge beam? And above the OSB there is a warm roof? I think I may have a similar build up. My instructions are to tightly pack the gap with Kingspan or something similar and to foam the micro gaps. Tightly isn't easy. So I went through foam at a rate of knots. Most of it on my trousers, I think... ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makie Posted March 31, 2019 Share Posted March 31, 2019 7 hours ago, Triassic said: I have a gap between the top of my insulated walls where the roof trusses sit on the wall plate. Can I simply fill it with insulation and foam around any gaps? Are you going to have a ventilated soffit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triassic Posted March 31, 2019 Author Share Posted March 31, 2019 1 minute ago, makie said: Are you going to have a ventilated soffit? No, I was going to extend the green membrane across the soffit and up behind the barge board. In that way it’ll reduce the wind wash on the end of the PIR insulation (above). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted March 31, 2019 Share Posted March 31, 2019 If you want to slightly reduce the geometric thermal bridge at the junction it might be worth making sure that the roof insulation projects slightly outside the wall. That creates a longer heat loss path, which may compensate slightly for the effect of the geometric thermal bridge. I did this all around our house, I added extra rigid insulation into the roof overhangs at the eaves and gables, all foamed in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makie Posted March 31, 2019 Share Posted March 31, 2019 28 minutes ago, Triassic said: No, I was going to extend the green membrane across the soffit and up behind the barge board. In that way it’ll reduce the wind wash on the end of the PIR insulation (above). So I would assume that you will be putting vents in the roof then, correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triassic Posted March 31, 2019 Author Share Posted March 31, 2019 30 minutes ago, makie said: So I would assume that you will be putting vents in the roof then, correct? No, We we have OSB sparking board, covered with non-tenting membrane, then battens and counter battens and finally slates. The battens and the space under the slates is vented. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makie Posted March 31, 2019 Share Posted March 31, 2019 8 minutes ago, Triassic said: No, We we have OSB sparking board, covered with non-tenting membrane, then battens and counter battens and finally slates. The battens and the space under the slates is vented. Make sure you have vent strips running on top of the fascia then. How are you finishing the ridge? In Scotland we tend to use ventilated zinc but I'm assuming you may be using concrete ridges? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triassic Posted March 31, 2019 Author Share Posted March 31, 2019 13 minutes ago, makie said: Make sure you have vent strips running on top of the fascia then. How are you finishing the ridge? In Scotland we tend to use ventilated zinc but I'm assuming you may be using concrete ridges? Vented ridge tiles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makie Posted March 31, 2019 Share Posted March 31, 2019 Sweet, I see a decent amount of people these days not ventilate their roof. I get a fair bit of work out of it so good to hear it's a vented ridge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted March 31, 2019 Share Posted March 31, 2019 I'm pretty sure it's now common practice to install eaves vents and a ventilated ridge, as when we were looking through various manufacturers installation instructions most seemed to stipulate some form of under tile/slate ventilation, with many providing proprietary solutions. Our roof has counter battens over the sarking, with membrane and slate battens above that, so that there's good ventilation from the eaves, up under the slates, to the ridge vents. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simplysimon Posted March 31, 2019 Share Posted March 31, 2019 btw, who cut the birds mouths? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triassic Posted April 1, 2019 Author Share Posted April 1, 2019 8 hours ago, Simplysimon said: btw, who cut the birds mouths? The Timber Frame co! Why? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simplysimon Posted April 1, 2019 Share Posted April 1, 2019 well they don't like like a very tight fit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triassic Posted April 2, 2019 Author Share Posted April 2, 2019 On 01/04/2019 at 07:58, Simplysimon said: well they don't like like a very tight fit I think it’s a shadow as they look tight on closer inspection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iSelfBuild Posted April 2, 2019 Share Posted April 2, 2019 17 minutes ago, Triassic said: I think it’s a shadow as they look tight on closer inspection. I thought they looked a bit dodgy at first but when you zoom in on the first picture they look nice and tight! It just looks like the little 90* brackets on the sides are fixed a little bit high on the rather than sitting flush down on the wall plate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simplysimon Posted April 2, 2019 Share Posted April 2, 2019 5 minutes ago, iSelfBuild said: I thought they looked a bit dodgy at first but when you zoom in on the first picture they look nice and tight! It just looks like the little 90* brackets on the sides are fixed a little bit high on the rather than sitting flush down on the wall plate? just done that, would have sworn that was end grain and the seat and plumb cuts had been reversed. as you were! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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