Onoff Posted March 6, 2019 Share Posted March 6, 2019 (edited) If it seems like I'm spreading my questions over various new threads...I am! Figured they stand alone and might help those following. Haven't fitted a sink with a pedestal ever, always drop in ones, so here come the questions: Sink is loosely in: Mounted on M10 bzp studs with those plastic cam things to adjust the height. 10mm tile drill followed by a 7mm multi construction bit. Studs sent home with the impact, going nowhere! Rather than use the supplied giant Rawlplugs the screws go into the 6"x2" timber behind I fitted in the stud wall: It's level: The tiles it's mounted against are plumb but the sink slopes, assume this is correct? The pedestal, I'll live with this. Surprising the casting isn't perfectly symmetrical! What I cant get my head around is the pedestal leans forward. Tbh It's no huge deal. The basin is sitting solid on the pedestal. The tile it sits on is level??? Just below the main fixing stud is another hole about 3" down on the corner of the casting, you can just see it. Am I meant to fix through there as well? Am I correct that I DO NOT want to "stick the basin to the wall"? The only silicone is when it's nutted tight to the wall and goes along the back edge and sides where they meet the tiles? Do I put a smear of anything between the basin and pedestal? The base of the pedestal has two fixing holes in the casting. I'd rather not drill because of the UFH pipes. CT1 maybe, baby wiped off followed by a coloured silicone? Any thoughts, tips appreciated! Cheers Edited March 6, 2019 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted March 6, 2019 Share Posted March 6, 2019 CT1 the pedestal down, and a small bead on the top to bond the basin to the pedestal. Nuts are fine on the basin - nothing else needed. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 8, 2019 Author Share Posted March 8, 2019 That's the studs and pipes/waste all ready, this end anyway! Only the hot on the left is "live". The cold, nearest, just goes to an open end 15mm in the loft. Got to get a couple of lengths of copper and run / tee off the incoming mains. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 8, 2019 Author Share Posted March 8, 2019 (edited) I've had these tap connectors lying around for so long I've lost one rubber O ring and the other is dry, cracked and perished! Anyone know what size they are? Measures about 8.5mm dia to the base of the groove. From my trusty £3 Maplin box of assorted O rings I note I have both 7 and 8mm ID ones, both 2mm thick. Cheers Edit: In searching for the O ring size I came across monobloc connectors with double O rings. Are these any better than the single O ring ones? Edited March 8, 2019 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 9, 2019 Author Share Posted March 9, 2019 That's in. Just waiting for the CT1 to go off: Then I'll nut the tails and waste up: 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 10, 2019 Author Share Posted March 10, 2019 I'd have done this grey but was overruled: Ended up at an 8mm bead. The far side was proud of the floor by about 4mm so "out" was the pedestal casting. The gap is packed with CT1 Fugi'd flush then gone over with Forever White. Cheated with the black waste by covering with some foil tape until I cut a bit of upvc or something: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted March 10, 2019 Share Posted March 10, 2019 Are those flat faced isolators or just normal ones with the nut and olive removed..?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 11, 2019 Author Share Posted March 11, 2019 (edited) On 10/03/2019 at 18:11, PeterW said: Are those flat faced isolators or just normal ones with the nut and olive removed..?? Good question...I'll whip the cold off as that's not yet connected in the loft. I remember something about this now you mention it..... Edited March 11, 2019 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 12, 2019 Author Share Posted March 12, 2019 (edited) On 10/03/2019 at 18:11, PeterW said: Are those flat faced isolators or just normal ones with the nut and olive removed..?? Normal ones by the look of it, not flat faced. Should I be worried? They seem to be holding at the mo, saying that I've only got the hot from the cylinder connected. Might be a different story when I put the cold on mains. I could whip them off and turn the face down flat in the lathe? Cheers. Edited March 12, 2019 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted March 12, 2019 Share Posted March 12, 2019 The issue is normal ones are shaped for an olive, so present a very thin edge for the washer to seat on. They maybe perfectly okay, or they may not last before the washer gives up. I sometimes think the quick solution is put it in the lathe and turn a bit off the end to make it flat and wider. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 12, 2019 Author Share Posted March 12, 2019 (edited) 3 minutes ago, ProDave said: I sometimes think the quick solution is put it in the lathe and turn a bit off the end to make it flat and wider. That's my plan. Cheers. EDIT: The only downside is once I take that valve off the olive will have to be reused as I can't push the nut back far enough to get the olive splitter on! Edited March 12, 2019 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miek Posted March 12, 2019 Share Posted March 12, 2019 2 minutes ago, ProDave said: The issue is normal ones are shaped for an olive, so present a very thin edge for the washer to seat on. They maybe perfectly okay, or they may not last before the washer gives up. I sometimes think the quick solution is put it in the lathe and turn a bit off the end to make it flat and wider. Good point, could be done with a hand file in a vice if you don't have a lathe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted March 12, 2019 Share Posted March 12, 2019 1 hour ago, Onoff said: Normal ones by the look of it, not flat faced. Should I be worried? They seem to be holding at the mo, saying that I've only got the hot from the cylinder connected. Might be a different story when I put the cold on mains. I could whip them off and turn the face down flat in the lathe? Cheers. Just buy a couple of hose adapters and put the nuts on properly. £3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 12, 2019 Author Share Posted March 12, 2019 5 minutes ago, PeterW said: Just buy a couple of hose adapters and put the nuts on properly. £3 Will do: That might cause me problems as it'll push the flexible hoses tighter against the pedestal, that extra 1/2" might be an issue... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 26, 2019 Author Share Posted March 26, 2019 Obligatory video: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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