Moggaman Posted February 5, 2019 Share Posted February 5, 2019 Hi. I am designing a self build at the moment and I have a few questions which you guys might be able to assist with. My design is a rectangular house with a raised wallplate to allow living space upstairs with rooflights and gable windows for light. I want to build a standard cavity masonry wall with an increased cavity to be filled with a yet to be determined pumped insulation. I also want that eaves less look that has become popular My questions are At what stage does a cavity call for specialised ties. I am looking at a 150mm Cavity..Do I need to over engineer this or will longer ties do?. The house is 13m long by 9 metres wide and its 3.5m to the wallplate with a standard A roof at 30 degrees I am struggling to find a detail for the eaveless roofs. A guy told me today that by right the gable of the building should be plastered before the roof is put on for that detail. FiIor a normal projected out eaves , I get that the rafter sticks out beyond the outer leaf of block and is notched into the inner leaf but with my detail the rafter can be notched on the inner leaf wallplate buudt cannot extend out beyond the outer leaf to avoid conflicting with the plasterboard. Is there a cement board skirt detail that goes in there? This is my first post and appreciate your help I have attached an example of the detail I am going for. Thanks Moggaman. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpmiller Posted February 5, 2019 Share Posted February 5, 2019 you can put a strip of cement board on and render over it, we've just put a rough treated timber 4x1" as a backing board (which the gutter will mostly cover) and will render flush up to it, probably with a slim colourmatched UPVC fascia behind the gutter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moggaman Posted February 5, 2019 Author Share Posted February 5, 2019 thanks dpmiller. So I will have 20mm to 25mm of wet plaster on the outer leaf, the outside of the plaster will be flush with the cement board which is nailed to the rafter?.. and this cement board is then plastered over to give a 20mm to 25mm outstand at the top of the wall which the gutter will mostly hide? Am I reading you correctly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted February 5, 2019 Share Posted February 5, 2019 How important is it to have "nothing" at the eaves? Would a minimal overhang do? This is what I have done: The eaves board is just regularised construction timber, fitted before the render. Eventually it is going to be over clad in aluminium painted to match the window colour. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpmiller Posted February 6, 2019 Share Posted February 6, 2019 8 hours ago, Moggaman said: thanks dpmiller. So I will have 20mm to 25mm of wet plaster on the outer leaf, the outside of the plaster will be flush with the cement board which is nailed to the rafter?.. and this cement board is then plastered over to give a 20mm to 25mm outstand at the top of the wall which the gutter will mostly hide? Am I reading you correctly? Yes, that's the standard way of doing it round these parts AFAIK. We'll just go with a flat UPVC board over the timber- colour matched to the guttering and windows- like Dave is doing but not just as deep. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stones Posted February 6, 2019 Share Posted February 6, 2019 Re the wall ties, our last house had a similar cavity due to the addition of an additional layer of insulation on the outer face of the timber frame. Helical screw wall ties were provided and used. Similar to these: https://www.helifix.co.uk/products/new-build-ties-fixings/timtie/ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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