Thedreamer Posted January 7, 2019 Author Posted January 7, 2019 So, how on this make up would they attach the plasterboard here, 127.5mm to the stud? Is this a single unit fabricated before coming on site?
Blob the Builder Posted January 7, 2019 Posted January 7, 2019 12 hours ago, Dudda said: Just one concern I have on smaller service voids. If you have timber frame, then PIR (say 50mm) and then only 25x45mm battens you'll need fairly big screws (100mm or so) to fit the battens through the insulation to the solid timber frame. Then you'll have a lot of small plasterboard screws into the battens. You're making Swiss cheese of a thin batten that will split in areas. Might have to use 25x 60 or 75mm battens to avoid this especially if you are double slabbing, using heavier pink or the acoustic blue board or green boards in wet areas. Really good point Dudda, its definitely a fine balance between the needs of the different elements......Mmmmm
Crofter Posted January 7, 2019 Posted January 7, 2019 @Thedreamer you would attach the plasterboard to the battens, not to the studs. In my ceilings, I had 100mm PIR to screw through and, yes, some of the screws missed the wood- but you get your eye in. Just make sure you have decent and comfortable access when working and it's quite easy to check for square. Less so when leaning off one side of a ladder...
Thedreamer Posted January 7, 2019 Author Posted January 7, 2019 4 minutes ago, Crofter said: @Thedreamer you would attach the plasterboard to the battens, not to the studs. In my ceilings, I had 100mm PIR to screw through and, yes, some of the screws missed the wood- but you get your eye in. Just make sure you have decent and comfortable access when working and it's quite easy to check for square. Less so when leaning off one side of a ladder... Okay, so knock off 12.5mm from that, would they use screws for attaching the battens through the insulation to the stud? Do you think a 90mm nail gun, would work through 35mm batten and 40mm of Quinntherm? Not planning on doing this myself, just need to understand the process.
Dudda Posted January 7, 2019 Posted January 7, 2019 15 minutes ago, Thedreamer said: Okay, so knock off 12.5mm from that, would they use screws for attaching the battens through the insulation to the stud? Do you think a 90mm nail gun, would work through 35mm batten and 40mm of Quinntherm? Not planning on doing this myself, just need to understand the process. If you can you always screw through an airtight layer as over time screws move and the holes get bigger with expansion and contraction. You don't get that with screws.
Thedreamer Posted January 7, 2019 Author Posted January 7, 2019 4 minutes ago, Dudda said: If you can you always screw through an airtight layer as over time screws move and the holes get bigger with expansion and contraction. You don't get that with screws. ? Should the last bit be nails?
Dudda Posted January 7, 2019 Posted January 7, 2019 5 minutes ago, Thedreamer said: ? Should the last bit be nails? No. Plasterboards are also screwed. Timber to timber is fine generally with nails except going through an airtight layer.
Crofter Posted January 8, 2019 Posted January 8, 2019 Don't nail on your battens, especially with a nail gun- you won't know how many of your fixings have missed the studs, and you also have much less control over the direction. Screwing obviously costs a bit more, and takes a bit longer, but IMO it's the only way to do it right. If I was being a perfectionist, I would stick every batten under a pillar drill and drill perfectly perpendicular pilot holes at the correct centres... increases your chance of hitting the stud, and prevents the battens from splitting... just a thought
TerryE Posted January 8, 2019 Posted January 8, 2019 3 hours ago, Crofter said: you won't know how many of your fixings have missed the studs Perhaps the most important thing here is to indelibly mark the centre line of the studs on the inner slab before you cover it with insulation board etc. You can strike verticals from these makers simply, and this saves a lot of "hunt the stud" games later. You may need to refresh these makes occasionally if the fade from foot traffic, etc. but worth doing IMO. Also make sure that you or your electrician leaves at least 50mm gap to the nearest stub if dropping any vertical cabling runs during first fix -- this just moves them out of the fixing danger zone.
joe90 Posted January 8, 2019 Posted January 8, 2019 (edited) 5 minutes ago, TerryE said: Perhaps the most important thing here is to indelibly mark the centre line of the studs on the inner slab before you cover it with insulation board etc. ? Yes, I always mark the floor with any stud work to indicate where the studs are. Edited January 8, 2019 by joe90
Jeremy Harris Posted January 8, 2019 Posted January 8, 2019 If you want to find the studs after the plasterboard is up, and you haven't marked the floor, then magnets work well. I have some pencils where I fitted neodymium magnets to the end, and these are great for finding plasterboard screws and a lot more accurate than using a stud finder. I also have a dozen or so left over magnets (small ones, around 6mm diameter x 6mm long, IIRC) that I use as markers. They will just stick to the wall wherever there is a plasterboard screw, so I can put several in place to show where all the screws/studs are without marking the paint finish. 1 3
Jeremy Harris Posted January 9, 2019 Posted January 9, 2019 Here are some photos I've just taken showing the small magnets being used to find the centre of a stud: and this is one of the pencils I made up with a magnet in the end to find screws, pick up dropped screws etc, plus some of the small magnets: 4
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