Fallingditch Posted July 31, 2016 Posted July 31, 2016 I need to install LED floodlights around my site (which will then become garden floodlights). There is probaly 100m of cable to lay between (say) 6 floodlights, two or three switches and two or three PIR detectors. In a previous garden, my experience with 240V AC and underground cables was not good (frequent tripping of circuit breakers although it was a previous owner who had managed the installation). As many of us will know, Chineses floodlights are readily available specced both at 85V - 230V AC, and also at 24V DC (where the choice is not so great). Having said that, I have installed some 24V DC at an off grid location and they worked really well. So the question is, should I standardise on 240V AC? or transform down and run at 110V AC? (primarily for safety reassons) or stick with myexperience and go with 24V DC? Or maybe this is the wrong question! Maybe I should be focussing on how to install power cable safely underground, and speccing the system so as to minimise the cost of the electrical cable!
tonyshouse Posted August 1, 2016 Posted August 1, 2016 (edited) 240V no underground joins, above ground glanded waterproof connections always pointing downwards. Edited August 1, 2016 by tonyshouse 1
SteamyTea Posted August 1, 2016 Posted August 1, 2016 Going to be a lot cheaper to go the 230V route just on cabling.
Nickfromwales Posted August 1, 2016 Posted August 1, 2016 Plus 1 As the voltage goes down, the current goes up. . That means MUCH bigger cables, more complex voltage drop calcs, power supplies to fail and more. Feed the outside lights and power circuits from RCBO's which reside directly after the main switch in the CU. That will ensure that no circuits in the house get affected by outside faults
Onoff Posted January 21, 2017 Posted January 21, 2017 Check out Pratley boxes for imo the best you'll get mechanical protection wise. 1
Onoff Posted January 22, 2017 Posted January 22, 2017 Belt and braces, power in, tee off to the fitting, power onto the next: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/PRUBX03.html Cheaper than Pratley boxes but you have to add your own glands. https://www.connexbox.com/wagobox-capsule-ip68-adaptable-junction-box-grey.html WAGO is good stuff imho. I've even seen WAGO connectors used in Pratley boxes. Makes terminating SWA a doddle if you go that route: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/tcl/search?query=Blade+runner&Submit=Search
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