http://www.screwfix.com/p/adjustable-basin-wrench/14631?kpid=14631&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product Listing Ads-_-Sales Tracking-_-sales tracking url&gclid=CjwKEAjwz4u9BRCbioK3stnBznESJADA75xbgE1MRx7puJtgmUTBPuBWdeQLZiSC7Rq0V5DaUwEDlRoC2oTw_wcB

Have you tried one of these? Still tricky, watch the skin on your knuckles 

2 minutes ago, Tennentslager said:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/adjustable-basin-wrench/14631?kpid=14631&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product Listing Ads-_-Sales Tracking-_-sales tracking url&gclid=CjwKEAjwz4u9BRCbioK3stnBznESJADA75xbgE1MRx7puJtgmUTBPuBWdeQLZiSC7Rq0V5DaUwEDlRoC2oTw_wcB

Have you tried one of these? Still tricky, watch the skin on your knuckles 

 

It might help. Have you seen the access hole in the first photo though? I've since cut out the top left whole tile you can see and it doesn't help much and removing anymore doesn't help much due to the leg support and wall stud to fix the panel too. Its a bit tricky.

 

should have used plasterboard not 12mm ply

Not sure I understand the problem, where is the bath?

This tool let's you grab the tap locking nut and squeeze your hand between the bath and wall if it's a typical bath.

Maybe a good smear of plumbers paste between the taps and the bath and go for hand tight...

18 minutes ago, Tennentslager said:

Not sure I understand the problem, where is the bath?

This tool let's you grab the tap locking nut and squeeze your hand between the bath and wall if it's a typical bath.

Maybe a good smear of plumbers paste between the taps and the bath and go for hand tight...

 

I'll take another photo later but access is to the taps is via the cross shaped letterbox in the tiled bath panel.

I have one of these telescopic, Monument things:

 

 

It was invaluable when I had to change the taps on my parents bath, fitted in 1960! Tight? Poor access? I had to use a length of 25mm conduit to get enough leverage and bent the Tommy bar but it did it. 

I have this one

It's got much slimmer profile heads and takes up far less room per rotation. I can do taps by feel alone with this one, and the one above I launched after owning it for a day or so. The difference is night and day   

Another £20 for something I'll only use once

3 minutes ago, daiking said:

Another £20 for something I'll only use once

Get that one off Nick like mine that he launched! 

7 minutes ago, Onoff said:

Get that one off Nick like mine that he launched! 

Buy the monument one and see how long you keep your one afterwards 

The black rubber ends come off the Tommy bar so you have to glue them on. I went for a few turns of insulation tape tbh, so I can take the bar off if needed by simply removing the tape. . 

Mine IS at least made by Monument! TBH I really gave it some welly and it stood up to it. 50 year old 3/4" connections and long hardened hemp etc. Telescopic action is useful too.

What is it they say about being in a hole and stopping digging?

 

Just put the boards back down . 

If there's no leaks and the water is getting where it's supposed to then it's ok to leave it imo. . 

34 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Just put the boards back down . 

If there's no leaks and the water is getting where it's supposed to then it's ok to leave it imo. . 

 

That's the after pic, this is before: 

 

 

Several had been cut not at the joist, a few short sections of board had been 'destroyed' and temporarily replace with ply. so I cut them back to joists and tidied up. Also hoovered out the crap.

 

 

But I can't screw it down yet... One of the downstairs lighting cables was burnt by the plumber so I need the simplest, to code method of jointing an inaccessible cable - screwfix/toolstation/wickes tomorrow

 

And there's still an old fashioned circular junction box on the smoke alarm but the smoke alarm circuit is useless anyway, its only T&E not 3&E.

 

 

12 minutes ago, daiking said:

But I can't screw it down yet... One of the downstairs lighting cables was burnt by the plumber so I need the simplest, to code method of jointing an inaccessible cable - screwfix/toolstation/wickes tomorrow

 

Wago block... 

47 minutes ago, PeterW said:

 

Wago block... 

 

Goddamit, another delay.

Eh..??

 

http://www.screwfix.com/p/wago-basic-installer-box-75pcs/48808

21 minutes ago, PeterW said:

Eh..??

 

http://www.screwfix.com/p/wago-basic-installer-box-75pcs/48808

 

I know but I don't need 75 and another bill to go with the tap wrench and all the other bits at the moment

 

You can get smaller quantities on eBay 

Edited August 6, 201610 yr by daiking

how many do you need..?

44 minutes ago, PeterW said:

how many do you need..?

 

Just a couple to cut this section out and joint. There not enough slack to cut it and take it directly to the light fighting. 

 

 

The existing wrong JB is another problem for another time...

Edited August 6, 201610 yr by daiking

Just use some decent in line, heat shrink, self adhesive crimps with heat shrink over that. Here's a handy step by step I did:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Note the use of a red crimp on the CPC because of the smaller csa.

 

.....or use WAGOs. I can give you the crimp stuff or WAGOs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited August 6, 201610 yr by Onoff

TLC sell them in smaller quantities   

@Onoff Great noddy guide but you can see why I would go down the Wago route I need a proper pair of wire strippers as it is let alone having to crimp and heat shrink. You wouldn't board over and forget that damaged cable, would you?

If the outer pvc is only scorched then I'd leave it tbh and just 'whip' it with white electrical tape. 

You could do more harm that good cutting and linking it through so if it's not burned to the actual coloured cores then don't go any further. 

If you want to protect it, just buy a choc box and use that as the mechanical protection.  

The first pvc layer over the copper is electrical protection, and the outer layer is for mechanical protection only. . Hence the phrase PVC/PVC when ordering cable types.  

1 hour ago, daiking said:

@Onoff Great noddy guide but you can see why I would go down the Wago route I need a proper pair of wire strippers as it is let alone having to crimp and heat shrink. You wouldn't board over and forget that damaged cable, would you?

 

If I could guarantee against vermin then yes I personally would. I'd rather it clipped direct too. I'd also plaster it straight into a wall chase if the cable was run in the recognised zone. And again no probs in conduit/trunking. 

 

Crimping with an "appropriate compression" tool along with soldering, brazing and welding are recognised as being acceptable by the regs as not requiring future access. You might come across a term "mf" or maintenance free which any screw terminal isn't. Tbh this type of join is pretty common. Needs to be done well and pass it's dead tests etc.

 

Try getting a WAGO box in a narrow wall chase easily!

 

Edited August 7, 201610 yr by Onoff

4 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

If I could guarantee against vermin then yes I personally would. I'd rather it clipped direct too. I'd also plaster it straight into a wall chase if the cable was run in the recognised zone. And again no probs in conduit/trunking. 

 

Crimping with an "appropriate compression" tool along with soldering, brazing and welding are recognised as being acceptable by the regs as not requiring future access. You might come across a term "mf" or maintenance free which any screw terminal isn't. Tbh this type of join is pretty common. Needs to be done well and pass it's dead tests etc.

 

Try getting a WAGO box in a narrow wall chase easily!

 

 

You'd leave this? 

 

 

I'd be more than happy to not have to do something with this. Its first floor so very unlikely to be at risk to vermin. None of the cables are clipped anywhere.

Edited August 7, 201610 yr by daiking