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Door ways and gaps


vfrdave

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I always have questions but that's why this place is so good they can't answered. Here is my latest and as usual my head is melted working compressed hours to get the 5th day off to work at the house.

Damned brickies have been lazy with the internal door heads. Set them all at 2100 off finished floor it seems cause it was easy for them.  I now have a gap between the frame and head what do I do with that to get it plastered?

IMG_20180718_203654.jpg

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They weren't being lazy they have to build it like that to keep in coursing. If they had of built the head in at the height the brick sits at you would be chopping the bottom of all the doors.

I put timber blocks in the gap and cut some cement board up into strips. Screwed these to the blocks on each side and put a mesh over and then the scratch coat came the full way down.

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9 hours ago, vfrdave said:

I always have questions but that's why this place is so good they can't answered. Here is my latest and as usual my head is melted working compressed hours to get the 5th day off to work at the house.

Damned brickies have been lazy with the internal door heads. Set them all at 2100 off finished floor it seems cause it was easy for them.  I now have a gap between the frame and head what do I do with that to get it plastered?

IMG_20180718_203654.jpg

2100 is normal

I had to lift this one another course

to stop the lintel clashing with the one on the next doorway

easyly filled

567EAA3D-2C5F-4A0B-B47C-4B7A3649CD1F.jpeg

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11 hours ago, Declan52 said:

They weren't being lazy they have to build it like that to keep in coursing. If they had of built the head in at the height the brick sits at you would be chopping the bottom of all the doors.

They clearly cut the block supporting the lintel they could have cut a thinner one and then a row of blocks on top of the lintel to maintain the coursing. Why does building have to be such an imprecise / make work type business. 

 

3 hours ago, nod said:

I had to lift this one another course

to stop the lintel clashing with the one on the next doorway

easyly filled

Exactly my point you have to fix it rather than have it built right in the first place.

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2 hours ago, MikeSharp01 said:

They clearly cut the block supporting the lintel they could have cut a thinner one and then a row of blocks on top of the lintel to maintain the coursing. Why does building have to be such an imprecise / make work type business. 

 

Exactly my point you have to fix it rather than have it built right in the first place.

That's a brick under the head. A brick ,75mm, plus a 150mm concrete head gives you 225mm which is block coursing measurements.

If they had of cut the brick down with a saw then they would have been out on the next row as the blocks on the wall beside it would sit higher. How would they have dealt with the step down in the wall as shown in the pic. They would have needed to bed blocks up 50mm in 2 courses. Good luck trying to get them blocks to sit.DrawOnPhoto_1532001580188.thumb.png.bc8667304d2abe2571d9697e106c7915.png

Plus the wall that is tied into this blockwork , green arrow, how would that have worked as it would be 40/50mm higher that the wall with the concrete head on it.

It's just how every single block house is built. Unless they are going to start making concrete heads at 180mm to suit over door openings then there will always be a gap. 

Most builders don't even fill the hole. The scratch coat will come down a bit and the skim coat another bit and once the door architrave is on its hidden.

Edited by Declan52
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I have to admit reading @Declan52 explanation they maybe aren't lazy and the coursing does make sense.

 

Just got to the stage where there have been a few things and it seems the attitude has been sure the plasterers or joiner will make that good, not my problem.

 

Or the old saying a landscaper I worked for as teenager would say "you can't see it from my house"

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On 18/07/2018 at 21:16, PeterW said:

Piece of 4x2 assuming they are 100mm blocks or leave them and put your 10,000mm vent gaps in the heads for the MVHR... hide it behind the architrave 

Piece of 4x2 it will be I think down close to the frame and mesh/expanded metal down over the lot. Maybe a bit of foam between the head and 4x2. How do you fix the 4x2 in place?

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