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Help with kitchen renovation/ 1st house.


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I don’t have a toolstation or a screwfix unless I drive for nearly an hour. I tend to use toolstation online as you only have to spend a tenner for free delivery. That’s a good deal I reckon! 

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Well I sure am lucky then. I'd not be happy having 4litres of gubbins sent min post, so I'll try see if anything locally. Ideally just a splash from a building site is all I need for my tiny patch not a gallon that'll be 95% wasted.

 

One chap, the TPerkins driver I think, mentioned pva. Is that feasable-?

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No I'd understand that. Ok so let me go back a step- what's the word I need here, plasticiser? (reading screwfix reviews of my liiiink ^ its used "instead of fairy liquid".. so I assume a maleable-addition-thingy, not a waterproofing-thingy which is what I need. I think) or mortar waterproofer?

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8 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

I'm jealous of anyone with a Toolstation they can go into.. tho grateful I have a screwfix/ dunno what I'd have done without tbh.

 

Now, is this the same stuff as your everbuild link I wonder https://www.screwfix.com/p/cementone-cemplas-mortar-plasticiser-dark-brown-5ltr/63831?

 

When you post a link you can delete back to the "?". Makes the link shorter. As above.

 

Tbh you could probably just mix a bit of ordinary 5 water:1 pva in with your mix if you're going to paint afterwards with an exterior masonary paint.

 

Yes, I add the Ever Build waterproofer to concrete, render, mortar.

 

Worth blocking the gaps up where you can. I too have uneven rendered walls. If nothing else it'll help stop getting wasps, social bees in there.

 

You can also get thin upvc trim you can stick on to take the shape of the wall and back it up with white silicon designed for upvc products of use the silicon on its own even:

 

405274572_ae235(1).jpeg.42027f1f54bb005a10b91a8fe353fd75.jpeg

 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/sika-sika-plastix-upvc-sealant-translucent-300ml/8615P?

 

Be careful though about sealing it all up too well as a draughty loft generally stays dry. You can get upvc soffit board sections with a continuous vent grill in it drill 70mm holes and retro fit round ones:

 

ae235.jpeg.9109abd3b3380bd8313e95d07bcd810b.jpeg

 

I had birds nesting in the eaves and fitted these. Made it less comfortable for them and they buggered off!

 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/circular-soffit-vent-white-70mm-10-pack/68936

 

On the other hand...if you increase or change the venilation paths in your roof space you can expose pipes to freezing if not properly lagged.

 

Fun ain't they these old houses! :)

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8 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

No I'd understand that. Ok so let me go back a step- what's the word I need here, plasticiser? (reading screwfix reviews of my liiiink ^ its used "instead of fairy liquid".. so I assume a maleable-addition-thingy, not a waterproofing-thingy which is what I need. I think) or mortar waterproofer?

 

Plasticiser just makes it more workable. FFS don't use washing up liquid.

 

You get various "admix" from separate ones to 3 in 1 types. TP do the exact same Sika waterproofer as Wickes as they have the same parent company.

 

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Sika-Proof-Waterproof-Admixure---5l/p/133791?

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Crikey that's alot to take on board. Maybe its better to leave loft with the (vast) thru-draught then!

 

No pipes or water tank etc up there mind you. The reason I ask is, for the perfect eg; when I was doing me frame for me 'ole today (with new foam beast) there was a huge draught, not tho coming at me thru me 'ole but rather from the pb > wall void/ 5" gaps. I thought maybe nip it in the bud @ soffits.. but maybe that's a naiive idea.

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Nice one- that Sika sounds like the one then. If I can do the height thing top of me ladder (mmm) I think I will foam up the soffit > wall gaps.. I get a huge hit from wind position here end of wee valley, & set up a bit, facing W/ SW that the loft will always have a good thru draught even once these gaps done I'm sure. I can hear the wind howling behind my bed1&2 walls so bad these voids are. Rockwool it will be, next spring. Can't wait.

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@zoothorn did you say there was a chimney breast behind one of these plasterboard walls..? Daft as it sounds, may be worth exposing this as the old masonry chimneys do absorb and release a lot of heat. Currently it sounds like its behind the PB "tent" so isn't warming anything ...

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You shall. in good time, I'm still feeding it.

 

PeterW yes indeed so: in bed1 on this end of house/ chimney breast, the pB is set the standard 5" void away from wall down at yr feet.. to a whopping 12 to 18" at ceiling point. If the chimney is radiating some heat, I'm not sure if my pummice-lined chimney would do so, then it'll be dissapearing up this space to heat only Mickey & Co laughing at me from their joist-nest.

 

But if the rockwool 'wad' does its job, once in directly against here, won't I be shutting off this small radiating 'heat source' ?

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I'll have to expose it to do the pB & rockwool revamp tho.. was PeterW hinting at actually going with no pB this end you mean?

 

Maybe the reason the studs are set 18" off from this old chimney wall face, is attatching studs directly to it was an issue. I guess I can only find this out once pB ripped off, which -will- happen. Incidentally all the upstairs pB, is very hard/ not characteristic pB feel.. my builders mused if it might be plywood. Is that possible? its all remained dead flat, in this moist atmosphere & seems very dry.

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19 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Incidentally all the upstairs pB, is very hard/ not characteristic pB feel.. my builders mused if it might be plywood. Is that possible? its all remained dead flat, in this moist atmosphere & seems very dry.

 

Asbestos? :S

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Ive never seen asbestos plasterboard, pretty sure its not that hard! its either plywood, some sort of wood pine or something, or old pB that was rock hard back in '85. its good quality whatever it is, shame I couldn't take it off, stuff the rockwool in & put it back on again.

 

I can't take a pic as its just white walls innit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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2 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Ive never seen asbestos plasterboard, pretty sure its not that hard! its either plywood, some sort of wood pine or something, or old pB that was rock hard back in '85. its good quality whatever it is, shame I couldn't take it off, stuff the rockwool in & put it back on again.

 

I can't take a pic as its just white walls innit.

 

Anywhere you can expose an edge?

 

People use weird stuff if they don't know what they're doing or it's free!

 

My lounge walls are roofing battens covered in 1/4" hardboard then woodchip paper. The floor is ordinary chipboard not flooring grade.

 

In one of the eaves the remanants of the old flat roofs were pallet wood.

 

 

Edited by Onoff
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10 minutes ago, Onoff said:

or it's free!

 

My lounge walls are roofing battens covered in 1/4" hardboard then woodchip paper. The floor is ordinary chipboard not flooring grade.

 

In one of the eaves the remanants of the old flat roofs were pallet wood.

 

You sure one of your rellies didn't live there before you? ;)

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Only doing 2 pics here, start/ finish as I understand Im on a topic detour. Foam demon slain, I pulled up braaan fluff up to frame behind (wedged & foamed in/ v. solid), then pir in the frame.. before my proper 6x 1" pir sheets. gonna be tricky doing frame to finish due to wires front rhs.

 

 

001.JPG

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1 hour ago, zoothorn said:

Only doing 2 pics here, start/ finish as I understand Im on a topic detour. Foam demon slain, I pulled up braaan fluff up to frame behind (wedged & foamed in/ v. solid), then pir in the frame.. before my proper 6x 1" pir sheets. gonna be tricky doing frame to finish due to wires front rhs.

 

 

001.JPG

 

Any less draughty?

 

If anything does find its way in there it'll not only be warm but have something chew on :( Think I'd cut some small bits of pb and screw to the timber tight up to the cables / pipes. Seem to remember they don't like chewing pb. Thinking easy to chew through the foam around the pipes & cables.

Edited by Onoff
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26 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Any less draughty?

 

If anything does find its way in there it'll not only be warm but have something chew on :( Think I'd cut some small bits of pb and screw to the timber tight up to the cables / pipes. Seem to remember they don't like chewing pb. Thinking easy to chew through the foam around the pipes & cables.

 

Seriously ...?????!! They won’t be interested in getting through as they will find warmth elsewhere ...

 

@zoothorn again, cracking job and as discussed so spot on that man ..! 

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34 minutes ago, PeterW said:

 

Seriously ...?????!! They won’t be interested in getting through as they will find warmth elsewhere ...

 

@zoothorn again, cracking job and as discussed so spot on that man ..! 

 

Who wouldn't want to live in a nicely insulated box? :)

 

 

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46 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Any less draughty?

 

If anything does find its way in there it'll not only be warm but have something chew on :( Think I'd cut some small bits of pb and screw to the timber tight up to the cables / pipes. Seem to remember they don't like chewing pb. Thinking easy to chew through the foam around the pipes & cables.

 

Nope. 2 reasons: the wind 99% of time comes from bang opposite direction (moreso cold enters here rather than draught), & the -huge- draught hitting me in the face from the adjacent wall voids (down from roof/ loft) means I can't detect anything comin in me 'ole anyway! Seriously the word 'draught' doesn't fit.. its literally a wind howling down behind my bedroom pB's. Nevertheless.. these reasons don't mean the job is useless. Like adding the kitchen pir, it just had to be attempted even if I find no benefits. One of these days I'll actually get direct results!!

 

Onoff I can't go to the nth degree to mitigate against mice. I'm already up against it with the skills I can just muster up to do this, causing each thing to take 4x what it'd take you (this frame for eg, has taken me 1 whole day's work) let alone 5x what it'd take a pro.

 

But go on what could I do, or what should've done, to get the pipe gaps filled, without using foam, to stop mice-? I can't picture what you mean by pB around pipes. What I could do, if I have the time & could be arsed, is get in loft & pB the backside of the frame.. but still.. I'd need to cut a 'n' shaped cutout for the pipes, & cables. Which has to be filled after. With foam. So I'm in same position as I am now. Unless I'm missing something.

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55 minutes ago, PeterW said:

 

Seriously ...?????!! They won’t be interested in getting through as they will find warmth elsewhere ...

 

@zoothorn again, cracking job and as discussed so spot on that man ..! 

 

Actually the little assh8les I can hear munching my expandifoam gaps in my main room ceiling: three 5 ft x 1" gaps around room edges, next to ceiling beams, that like the wall voids on 1st floor go right up to loft/ so another few cold-into-house places I filled. Weirdly, even this job was to no obvious benefits too!! why? because, so much of an enormous influx of cold is still generated A. up from floor, B. in via thick stone walls, & C. down/ in from the 1st floor wall voids at room peripheries (hopefully your rockwool idea will at least address C).. that small gaps, even feeling cold hitting you in the face from them, once filled have no detectable results.

 

So they do like eating it. Onoff is right. Its infuriating too- but what could I do? I just had to fill these gaps.

 

 

Edited by zoothorn
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