Help with kitchen renovation/ 1st house.

[zoothorn]

[I still can't seem to get notifications in my email inbox, of any reply.. can someone tell me how?]

[newhome]

9 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

[I still can't seem to get notifications in my email inbox, of any reply.. can someone tell me how?]

 

You need to click ‘follow’ at the bottom of the page, then select the email option you want. At present it doesn’t look as if you are following this thread. 

[PeterW]

You need 50x25mm roofing battens, concrete screws and a decent drill. 

 

Fit the battens at 400mm centres vertically, screwed to the wall top middle and bottom. Gripfill or another adhesive won't work here so don't bother. Try to avoid hitting any pipes or wires..... 

 

Fill the gaps with 25mm insulation and then the boards go straight over the top, screwed to the battens . If you are tiling or wallpapering you can just fill the holes for the screws and the joints and then paper over. Tiles can go straight onto the board with no other finishing.

 

Sockets just get brought forward with longer screws.

[Onoff]

A battened wall:

 

 

A concrete screw (Torx T30 bit I think). They don't always bite! I put mine in with either the 18V impact or 230V pistol drill

 

 

You shim behind as required with plastic trouser shims, slivers of timber etc.

 

Insulating between

 

 

Be aware that 25mm pir might be anything from 23-28! I had 45mm battens so figured add a 5mm (brown) pack to give 50mm and my 50mm pir wouldn't project....well in places it did because it was thicker than 50mm!

 

I think I put 5 fixings per batten with a minimum 5mm pack. I also foam gunned behind the batten in between the fixings  /packs.

Edited July 16, 2018 by Onoff

[zoothorn]

1 hour ago, PeterW said:

You need 50x25mm roofing battens, concrete screws and a decent drill. 

 

Fit the battens at 400mm centres vertically, screwed to the wall top middle and bottom. Gripfill or another adhesive won't work here so don't bother. Try to avoid hitting any pipes or wires..... 

 

Fill the gaps with 25mm insulation and then the boards go straight over the top, screwed to the battens . If you are tiling or wallpapering you can just fill the holes for the screws and the joints and then paper over. Tiles can go straight onto the board with no other finishing.

 

Sockets just get brought forward with longer screws.

 

Thanks Peter- I'll go with this info @ T.Perkins. So is 400mm a std dim for this job, whatever the room & whether the added Depth is 1" or 2"?

[PeterW]

400 centres means you land board joints on a batten. From the corner though you need to go from the outside edge to centre, as otherwise you will end with a 25mm gap with your first board

[zoothorn]

Onoff.. very helpful thx. do you have any more pics of the rest of the job, or is this as your doing right now..

 

Those scrtews look terrifyingly nasty to get in.. do you pilot hole a big one > then whack in.. or are they designed to go straight into block? I guess if so you need a particular/ v. high quality drill or you'd be struggling-?

 

So are your battens 400mm apart? & why are your noggins at different heights?

[zoothorn]

3 minutes ago, PeterW said:

400 centres means you land board joints on a batten. From the corner though you need to go from the outside edge to centre, as otherwise you will end with a 25mm gap with your first board

 

Ah ok.. so plasterboard industry std W is 400mm then, if so I'm getting the idea.

 

Double battens on the outside edges as per onoff's eg.. is this a std method too? reason being..

 

thanks zoot

[zoothorn]

2 hours ago, newhome said:

 

You need to click ‘follow’ at the bottom of the page, then select the email option you want. At present it doesn’t look as if you are following this thread. 

 

Sorry.. where is this 'follow'? there's nothing at btm of [this] page saying so..

 

Are you referring to 'notify me of replies' -? which Ive tried, but doesnt seem to do anything.

[Onoff]

What do you mean by "double battens"?

 

Noggins are staggered as it makes it easier to screw them in. Yep 400 ctrs. Meant my pir was cut into nom 355mm wide strips.

I drilled a pilot, 6mm from memory with a Bosch multi construction bit, thru the batten & into the wall. Says they're self drilling here:

 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-countersunk-concrete-screws-7-5-x-100mm-100-pack/3839h

 

I never read that!

 

What I did was make "stud walls" in the garden and reassemble in the bathroom. Push against the wall, pack and drill to suit.

 

https://flic.kr/s/aHsk23FYzd

 

 

 

 

Edited July 16, 2018 by Onoff

[newhome]

It’s at the bottom on the mobile view. If you are using a laptop it may be somewhere different. And you need to have the thread open. I can see that you are not following this thread currently. 

 

Follow the link below and click to follow content you post or additionally content you replied to. And you will only get 1 email a day, not every time someone posts. 

 

https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/notifications/options/

 

 

Edited July 16, 2018 by newhome

[PeterW]

36 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

 

Ah ok.. so plasterboard industry std W is 400mm then, if so I'm getting the idea.

 

Double battens on the outside edges as per onoff's eg.. is this a std method too? reason being..

 

thanks zoot

 

PB is 2400x1200 or 1800x900

 

double battens are only there to give you a corner to work to

[newhome]

13 minutes ago, Onoff said:

What do you mean by "double battens"?

 

This. 2 battens together. ?

 

Well i assume it’s this. 

 

 

[PeterW]

That's known as poor planning.... ?

[newhome]

2 minutes ago, PeterW said:

That's known as poor planning.... ?

 

Surely not! It was several months in planning I imagine ?

 

 

[zoothorn]

Yup thats the 2 battens Im on about.. lookslike doubles on your outer 2- normal procedure? why so?

 

Onoff. Im interested to know what you're doing regarding the window areas/ the side wall areas 1 block thick too.. add C'tex here? or too fiddly/ what just ~5" wide board onto to block.. but how to fix? a pic would be great.. lookslike the fiddliest bit.

[PeterW]

You can't put insulation/board on a window or door reveal unless you have 35-40mm spare frame showing or you start hacking off the plaster thats already there.

[zoothorn]

So when you say a 'reveal'.. you mean the inner 'side of block' bit perpendipular to the wall & window?

 

So how do you tidy up this bit, if the batten & board are showing, having been added to wall face?

[PeterW]

6 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

So when you say a 'reveal'.. you mean the inner 'side of block' bit perpendipular to the wall & window?

 

So how do you tidy up this bit, if the batten & board are showing, having been added to wall face?

Yes - either use just board, or you need to stop 10mm back all the way round and then finish with a thin board / skim

[zoothorn]

Understood. Which would you suggest? has board alone got any insulating properties? Im thinking cold will innevitably get 'in' via this reveal area.. but Im a novice doing this job/ need to simplify as much as I can.

 

[PeterW]

If you are doing it properly then all the plaster comes off and you start from bare walls. 

 

Its retrofit then it’s as best you can get. Is it a double glazed window ..??

[zoothorn]

Yes two windows, 2x glazed.. but one is fogged on one edge/ half, so I assume this mean it needs replacing?

[PeterW]

Unit does. How much frame is showing..?

[Onoff]

4 hours ago, PeterW said:

That's known as poor planning.... ?

 

Not a clue tbh! That's an internal wall there anyway. 

 

EDIT: Might be something to do with the bath side pocket...I'm not wading through over 2k photos to see why!

Edited July 16, 2018 by Onoff

[newhome]

47 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Not a clue tbh! That's an internal wall there anyway. 

 

EDIT: Might be something to do with the bath side pocket...I'm not wading through over 2k photos to see why!

 

In other words @zoothorn double batten not required!