zoothorn

Help with kitchen renovation/ 1st house.

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13 hours ago, PeterW said:

 

Should be some sort of cavity wall insulation ... or a cavity closer, older houses sometimes had a roll of fibreglass like a sausage in the top of the cavity. 

 

That's all to prevent cold air getting into the wall? I'm surprised. You see I'm trying to establish how the bigs area behind my pB's upstairs, are effectively open to the elements/ Ive never known any house like it (have you?).. & therefore a plan to close them off: I don't suppose just rockwool will be the answer.

 

I think the battens behind the pB, aren't fixed to the walls at all, in fact I 'm sure of it- in the loft/ chimney end I defo saw 3x2 battens attatched to the roof joists top end > & to floor joists btm end I assume. The 'wedges' I see in the wall voids adjacent to me 'ole Im plugging up, are just wedges rather than fixing to wall/ I think show a similar construction therefore all upstairs.. hence the larger voids.

 

Anyone know any kind of internal wall construction like this before?

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Yes seen it as a dry lining technique but normally to cover walls that aren’t square, blown plaster etc. 

 

can you do a sketch plan of the room as I am struggling with the layout tbh

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Your original walls were probably very "out" befitting its cottage origins. Don't forget there was a movement years ago to square everything off, take out / board over original features like fireplaces, dado rails etc. 

 

A wild thought but if you did ewi you could potentially recover all that lost character and expose everything! 

 

Just reminded me of working at The Old War Office around 88/89. They spent a fortune uncovering and restoring all the original plaster and gilt work that had been covered over during a previous "makeover". Tastes change. 

 

Edited by Onoff

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The house is as simple as can be. Originally a larg'ish stone rectangle, pitched roof on. Roof taken off 1980,  brick 1st floor added (badly!) for 2 small bedrooms above. Extenstion added (RHS in pic), ground floor only + pitched roof. Stone shell downstairs is 'main room'.

 

So the only thing to expose, would be the old gable end chimney wall Onoff. Opposite to this end, the other old gable end.. has me' ole in.

 

[edited/ cut down].

 

 

 

 

Edited by zoothorn

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I hope at the least, I have 2 bricks courses behind all this pB.. but I can't be sure. Could my roof be added onto a single brick course..?

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@PeterW job done. pB on back too/ major mouse-proofed. Total 10" of pir, 2 frames/ pB's / scourer stuffed all round edges > soudal'd. 2+ days!!

 

I'll leave this now, & the major upstairs pB info/ pics too: convolutes my own thread so I can't keep up with myself!

 

--------------------------

 

Back to kitchen this wknd- 2nd top/ cooker area to dismantle.. pulling my finger out ~ last (big) leg really.

 

 

 

001.JPG

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Much done this wknd. Top/ hob not fixed in yet- to do today . Took lot apart as hob hit oven- had to shift shelf/ facias etc down 3cm = FAFF!

 

Next tricky tiling @ sockets/ never done before, got a screwfix handsaw.. urgh..

 

 

 

 

 

 

001.JPG

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How handy are you with a hand held grinder? In the absence of a wet tile cutter a diamond blade in a grinder works for L shaped cuts around tiles. Gloves, goggles, mask & not for the faint hearted.

 

You can also chain drill the tile with an arrow head bit then join up the holes with the tile saw.

Edited by Onoff

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Hi Onoff. Im not familiar with 'a diamond blade in a grinder'.. dont have a 'grinder'. I have a tile saw only. I'll look into 'arrow head bit' tho. thanks

 

Unless £silly.. I think Im gonna go for 2 new cupboards above here plus a basic extractor (+ 1 corner unit above coffee cnr). The old hanging cupboards as you can see 1 of here, scream 'dated!' with oldschool extractor between. Gonna shop in Howdens today.

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32 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Hi Onoff. Im not familiar with 'a diamond blade in a grinder'.. dont have a 'grinder'. I have a tile saw only. I'll look into 'arrow head bit' tho. thanks

 

Unless £silly.. I think Im gonna go for 2 new cupboards above here plus a basic extractor (+ 1 corner unit above coffee cnr). The old hanging cupboards as you can see 1 of here, scream 'dated!' with oldschool extractor between. Gonna shop in Howdens today.

 

Best then you don't use a grinder maybe! :)

 

Ref extra cupboards, just be bloody careful if the wires to those sockets come down the wall when affixing new cupboards.

 

Arrow head drills. This sort of thing. You can squirt with a plant sprayer as you drill if you want. 

 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-tile-glass-drill-bit-set-3pcs/53634?

 

Tbh a small Bosch multiconstruction bit would probably do the same.

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Great damn cheap those bits- just come back from screwfix dammit I could've got them- will get next time.

 

The RHS socket has a 1G plug socket for the extractor running directly up from it 1m above.. so easy to see/ avoid for cupboard unit fixing.

 

I'm fixing in the top to wall & hob to top (with no-nosense clear silicone) today, then skirting: I have 5" mdf basic stuff.. what's the best way to fix to mortared &/ or plaster-over mortar walls? all my corners are way off 90* too.. but I do have a chop-saw, if I can judge angles correctly.

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If the wall is that out that you can't use grab adhesive then Rawlplugs and screws and fill over. Where the skirting sits off the wall use decorators caulk. 

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Ah ok I was wondering if it was another job for mr. soudal. Its not the wall is 'out'/ wibbly.. its ok.. its the corner angles are not 90*. The room is an odd shape with one side ~80* angles / other room side ~100* (guesses). If I cut corner skirting 45* / fill join, it'll pass.. but not a VG job.

 

I'm reading various things on fitting my hob into the top. Heatproof worktops, gaskets etc. So 1stly I need to hold off putting it in to ask: is my worktop ok for a basic ceramic hob?

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You mean Soudal low expanding foam by "Mr Soudal?"

 

Tbh if you dampened the rear of both wall and skirting and could keep it firmly wedged in place whilst it goes off you could use expanding foam. So, grab adhesive as the ideal with Rawlpugs to back it up if required. 

 

On the hob just refer to the manufacturers instructions as to clearances. Should come with a gasket?

 

Skirting; corners not at 90deg? Get yourself a bevel gauge:

 

 

Don't forget too it's sometimes easier to cut all the skirting and dry fit to check then glue and pin all the joints together before fitting to the wall. 

Edited by Onoff

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A few Q's if I may.

1. Should I preferably use grab adhesive over screws/plugs IF I find the wall acceptably straight?

 

2. What the dickens is the difference between 'caulk' & silicone/ what is 'caulk'?

 

3. Ceramic hobs. I have my mum's donated hob, saving me £100 as its fairly decent & was working. Ive stripped it down/ cleaned, hooked up & it works so far as I can tell as it should each ring lighting/ diminishing just as I recall ceramics to do. 4x knobs + indicator lights, plus 1 light at front a 'warning' light 'for 60*C'.. which comes on 30 secs after any ring on, stays on most of time. Now I cant establish if this light is A) normal operation.. or B ) its indicating a fault. The manual is not clear: is just says its a 'warning light for 60*C' (any ring will hit that fig under normal conditions regularly Id suggest).

 

Anyone have any similar hob/ circuit before?

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1) Yep, grab adhesive rather than screws & plugs if wall is straight.

 

2) Caulk is basically paintable. Here's a cheapo one I'm using now, they do one for inside too:

 

20181210_172804

 

 

20181210_172820

 

3) Got a model number for that hob?

 

Edited by Onoff

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7 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Great help as always Onoff. I like the bevel-guage clip.. an OCD'ers dream this! I shall diy a bevel-guage. So caulk's.. basically just paintable white silicone-?

 

The manual (page 4 of 4) just the "warning light @ front" bit (twds top).. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/70813/Hotpoint-6361.html?page=4#manual

 

I think caulk is actually acrylic based.....like some paints.

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The lights working properly. It's saying "HOT, don't touch!". It takes the "30 secs"you mention to get above 60deg. It'll only go out when the temp has dropped below 60deg.

Edited by Onoff

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Are you absolutely sure-? can you understand what I mean though/ my reservations, with its lingo of "WARNING LIGHT" being sort of ambiguous, as to its actual functioning?

 

Its imperative I don't fit this, esp into a hardwood top, & enclosed as they are.. if its possibly not working correctly.

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14 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Are you absolutely sure-? can you understand what I mean though/ my reservations, with its lingo of "WARNING LIGHT" being sort of ambiguous, as to its actual functioning?

 

Its imperative I don't fit this, esp into a hardwood top, & enclosed as they are.. if its possibly not working correctly.

 

"The Hob Hot warning light switches on when one of more heating areas exceeds 60degC".

 

"The warning light stays on until the teperatures of all cooking areas have dropped below 60degC"

 

What's not clear? :)

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