CC45 Posted April 10, 2018 Share Posted April 10, 2018 Evening all, Skimmer booked for upstairs for 2 weeks time and I still have a lot to do before he turns up, gulp. In the bathrooms and ensuites I have used moisture resistant boards http://www.resistant.co.uk/tilebacker-moisture/ and my query is about these. Some will be tiled over (showers and around bath) and some will be skimmed and some walls will be partly tiled (straight onto the board) with the rest skimmed. Should I fill in the gaps between the boards? We are not talking of wide gaps here - at most 3mm (with odd cock ups perhaps closer to 5mm - these are very rare), with most boards butted together fairly tightly. I'd hate to think of any water getting behind these boards through these gaps and then tracking down to the ceilings below. I am happy to tank them - I'd rather a 100% solution - peace of mind is better than worry and since I do it all myself the cost isn't a massive consideration. If the general advice is tank - then what products should I stick to? Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tennentslager Posted April 10, 2018 Share Posted April 10, 2018 Surely the gaps are filled and finished and unless you be spraying water on them...they be sound, am I missing something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 11, 2018 Share Posted April 11, 2018 I was planning Sikafkex EBT where all mine abut to each other, then where they meet the floor & any walls. That whole mitred corner I'm working on including the feature pockets will be Aqua Panelled. I've only done one Aqua Panel so far and that was where the wall hung wc is going. Sika'd the ply before screwing the panel on with the proper knauf screws: There was a bit of a gap on a couple of edges where the flush box comes thru, tbh I just foamed that. One tip is to use that Sika EBT up quickly. I bought a few tubes via a link Nick put up. It was cheap and I was bit worried it might not be in date. Date was fine but for me it went off real quick in the tube even when I taped up the cut nozzle. I think it's down to me being slow more than anything! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC45 Posted April 11, 2018 Author Share Posted April 11, 2018 The gaps will be filled with skim or tile adhesive. I just wondered if the gap between board edges ought to have something extra before tiling / skimming. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC45 Posted April 11, 2018 Author Share Posted April 11, 2018 another gap filling query - I took the pic below tonight, the cheeky monkey who knocked the frame up (who obviously didn't own a level or a line) didn't get the timber up the stair well right - so its not plumb - the 12mm ply I've put up there (with PB due to go on top of this) has ended up with a gap (see pic) - at its worst its ~ 5 or 6mm wide and about 10" deep. I would like to fill this gap with something that will help strengthen the ply / PB because the stairs needs to screw into it & 12mm ply isn't very strong (18mm next time) - ideally a pour in substance (the 'cavity' is sealed). It doesn't need to be an adhesive - its just got to fill the gap. Even better would be a pour in and let it expand to fill the gap (but not push the board out). Tight for a foam gun - I wondered about some Egger D4? Any advice gratefully received. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted April 11, 2018 Share Posted April 11, 2018 ^^ probably a bit late to say this, but the bottom end of your ply is floating. That will flex. I would have put a dwang (noggin) across there t catch the end of the ply and screwed it to that. Then you only have a ply and plasterboard deep gap to fill and it will be one whole lot more solid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted April 11, 2018 Share Posted April 11, 2018 15 hours ago, Onoff said: I was planning Sikafkex EBT where all mine abut to each other, then where they meet the floor & any walls. That whole mitred corner I'm working on including the feature pockets will be Aqua Panelled. I've only done one Aqua Panel so far and that was where the wall hung wc is going. Sika'd the ply before screwing the panel on with the proper knauf screws: There was a bit of a gap on a couple of edges where the flush box comes thru, tbh I just foamed that. One tip is to use that Sika EBT up quickly. I bought a few tubes via a link Nick put up. It was cheap and I was bit worried it might not be in date. Date was fine but for me it went off real quick in the tube even when I taped up the cut nozzle. I think it's down to me being slow more than anything! I am convinced some future owner is going to rip this lot apart (when they knock it down to rebuild) and wonder at the sheer number of Fosters cans left behind build into the walls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 11, 2018 Share Posted April 11, 2018 5 minutes ago, ProDave said: I am convinced some future owner is going to rip this lot apart (when they knock it down to rebuild) and wonder at the sheer number of Fosters cans left behind build into the walls. Screws at 100mm ctrs...they'll be cursing if they try! I'm into bottled Cobra now anyway! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC45 Posted April 12, 2018 Author Share Posted April 12, 2018 The ply in the pic isnt floating - there are spacers every 150mm or so - screwed back into the timber through these. How would you fill gaps @ProDave? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 12, 2018 Share Posted April 12, 2018 50 minutes ago, CC45 said: The ply in the pic isnt floating - there are spacers every 150mm or so - screwed back into the timber through these. How would you fill gaps @ProDave? I'm not sure what I'm even looking at from your picture...or your description. Is that gap horizontal, vertical etc? Is the slot ply one side and something else the other or hollow? Can you take one standing back a bit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC45 Posted April 12, 2018 Author Share Posted April 12, 2018 Its from above it so that gap is horizontal. One side is solid timber (part of the timber frame) - under the chipboard floor - this is the timber that goes out of plumb, the other side is the ply which comes up from the bottom of the stairs - and is plumb. Leaning towards just using Egger d4 as a filler. Not on site at min for extra pic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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