Hi all,

When planning lighting for a kitchen, do you normally put the ceiling lights, under-cabinet lights and island lighting on separate switches?

It seems separate circuits or switching can make the room more practical, especially when you want brighter light for food preparation but a softer setting in the evening.

I’m interested in how people usually plan the switching and wiring for these different lighting zones, and whether there are any common things worth considering before the kitchen is fitted.

What approach has worked well for you?

Yes all separate switches. If it is a dual use room, then separate ceiling lights for kitchen area, dining area, living area and even allow for wall lights.

Yep. And then each one on a smart relay so they can be linked if necessary.

For example my beam lights come on with my kitchen spots, but can also be controlled independently from their own switch.

And another yes here - 4 switches on my current project.

Good advice from everyone. When we did our kitchen, we installed cabling for all eventualities and took it back to a 47mm double backbox that has four light switches on it. At the moment, we only use three (dining area, main kitchen, and above-cabinet LEDs), but we also have cables for under-cabinet lighting and plinth lighting should we ever change our minds.

Yep and multiple switch locations as well if you have open-plan. You don't want to schelp over from one zone to another.

One thing we thought was a good idea is to have one of your multi-switch locations at the main of ingress/egress to the room. Ours is by the door leading to the stairs so that you can turn any/every-thing on/off as soon as you enter/leave the room

Regards

Tet

PS We went massively overboard with lighting to preserve symmettry, but they remain very adjustable. My only issue is that my main downlights are now discontinued so I am bu##erered if replacements are needed

12 hours ago, ProDave said:

Yes all separate switches. If it is a dual use room, then separate ceiling lights for kitchen area, dining area, living area and even allow for wall lights.

That makes sense, having separate switches gives you more flexibility, especially when the kitchen and dining area share the same space. wall lights are a good option too for a softer light in the evening.

12 hours ago, Super_Paulie said:

Yep. And then each one on a smart relay so they can be linked if necessary.

For example my beam lights come on with my kitchen spots, but can also be controlled independently from their own switch.

nice, that sounds like a handy way to set it up. you get the option to run everything together or just use the beam lights on their own when you want a different feel.

1 hour ago, garrymartin said:

Good advice from everyone. When we did our kitchen, we installed cabling for all eventualities and took it back to a 47mm double backbox that has four light switches on it. At the moment, we only use three (dining area, main kitchen, and above-cabinet LEDs), but we also have cables for under-cabinet lighting and plinth lighting should we ever change our minds.

planning for the extra lighting from the start was a good idea. even if you do not use all the cables straight away, it saves the hassle of adding them later if you decide to change things.

51 minutes ago, Tetrarch said:

Yep and multiple switch locations as well if you have open-plan. You don't want to schelp over from one zone to another.

One thing we thought was a good idea is to have one of your multi-switch locations at the main of ingress/egress to the room. Ours is by the door leading to the stairs so that you can turn any/every-thing on/off as soon as you enter/leave the room

Regards

Tet

PS We went massively overboard with lighting to preserve symmettry, but they remain very adjustable. My only issue is that my main downlights are now discontinued so I am bu##erered if replacements are needed

the switch location by the entrance is a good point. it is much easier to control everything when you come in or leave, especially in an open-plan room. shame about the downlights being discontinued though, that is always a risk when you have a lot of the same fittings.

Re downlights. Only fit ones with replacable e.g. GU10 lamps. They are harder to find now, but at least they are maintainable.

Just now, ProDave said:

Re downlights. Only fit ones with replacable e.g. GU10 lamps. They are harder to find now, but at least they are maintainable.

Or buy a box of spares with the non replaceable type. (I'd hugely prefer changable bulbs but as you say they are getting more difficult these days, especially if looking for specific features)