That's a lot of compression fittings

[MortarThePoint]

Below if a rough out of the fittings I plan to put in before the 22mm copper that the plumber used for my tank, manifolds etc install. It works out as a hell of a lot of compression fittings, no pipes shown. I'd rather go with Pressfit, but don't have the expensive tool and if done carefully (inc Jet-lube V2), hopefully I'll have no leaks. I could only use solder fittings for tees and elbows so wouldn't actually reduce the number of compression joints as much as you'd think. 39 + 12 = 51 compression joints in total including the softener pipework.

 

Singe check valves (aka non-return valves) are highlighted with blue stars. Double check valves (DCV) are highlighted with pink stars. I've heard conflicting things abut whether a DCV is required first thing, but I do know I am supposed to have at least a single check valve before the water softener. I am effectively creating a double (DCV) by using two in series, hence the 15mm single on the unsoftened (drinking and garden) branch. I've put a drain off between these check valves to allow verification as you'd have with a DCV. Contaminating outlets are protected against by DCVs.

 

I should have a second branch like the garage one (inc isolator, DCV, drain) for machines (dishwasher, washing machine).

 

Can anyone confirm that the long tail type A drain off cock  is OK for compression fittings?

 

Would have been good to notice you can get a DCV with isolator [link1] and that would have saved cost and joints. Likewise, you can get drain tees [link2] [link3]. The ultimate would be a combined DCV, isolator and drain off, but I haven't seen that at a sensible price and link1+link2 is a great option.

 

 

[Russell griffiths]

It only looks a lot because it’s all in a small space on the floor, spread it out into it’s correct location and it will look different. 

[JohnMo]

Should be this order, stop cock, then immediately after a double check valve.

 

Then you can tee to hard and soft water routes 

 

Hard water add isolation valve, drain cock, tee to house drinking water (no check needed), outside tapp needs a double check - but outside tap, you have a tee and a drain, the drain will not do anything the tap doesn't do already when you open it, so delete the drain and make tee and elbow. Use Tectite push fit for elbows or solder.

 

Garage if it also connects to hose pipe etc, you need a double-check, if it's going to say a washing machine it doesn't need a check valve.

 

Drinking is that just going to the kitchen?

 

 

[MortarThePoint]

11 minutes ago, JohnMo said:

Should be this order, stop cock, then immediately after a double check valve.

 

Then you can tee to hard and soft water routes 

 

Hard water add isolation valve, drain cock, tee to house drinking water (no check needed), outside tapp needs a double check - but outside tap, you have a tee and a drain, the drain will not do anything the tap doesn't do already when you open it, so delete the drain and make tee and elbow. Use Tectite push fit for elbows or solder.

 

Garage if it also connects to hose pipe etc, you need a double-check, if it's going to say a washing machine it doesn't need a check valve.

 

Drinking is that just going to the kitchen?

 

I think I recall that you're in Scotland and my 'research' suggested DCV are required by regulations in Scotland, but not in England. I am attempting to make the lowest sacrifice (in terms of flow rate) alternative out of single check valves. That's why there is a single check valve on each branch thus making a pair of check valves between branch and main. The intermediate drain allows verification testing.

 

The outside tap drain allows air in to drain the pipe through the wall. Without that drain, the water would just stay in the pipe.

 

Garage will have a hose on for washing the car with softened water.

 

Drinking is just going to the kitchen. It's OK to drink softened water as far as I understand so not the end of the world if someone drinks water from a bathroom tap.