Washing Machine Piping Puzzle

[Spinny]

Sigh.

I used my best efforts to provide dimensioned drawings & photos of the pipe arrangements on the back of my washer, showing them to the plumber and taping them to the wall. Despite this, now I have the machine here it will not fit properly because of crossing spaghetti pipes. I have a 45mm outer diameter drain pipe, a 25mm water supply hose, and of course a rear drum projection beyond the permitted 60mm machine size by another 30mm. A ridiculous 100mm required to fit a washing machine that is supposed to fit when plumbed into 600 by 600. (I have over 80mm behind the machine proper but not 100mm.)

 

While I do the plumbers job for them because they can't do it and draw up a new pipe arrangement so they can change what they have done to something that works, one or two questions.

 

Can the water supply hose fitted to my Siemens washer with an integrated leak detection/stop leak thing fixed into the end of it - be shortened - or must the pipe be used at it's full stupidly long length ?

What are the rules for a washing machine drain upright height and for the length of a washing machine drain hose ? can they be cut down ?

 

Thanks in anticipation.

Edited 12 hours ago by Spinny

[ProDave]

I put NO pipes or sockets behind the machine.

 

ALL pipes lead into the adjacent cupboard where they terminate.  Ditto the mains plug.

 

You still need to be careful that the pipes don't crossover, but that is just the order you thread them through the holes into the cupboard.

 

Your idea would only work (if they got it right) until you change the machine for a different one.

[Nickfromwales]

2 hours ago, Spinny said:

Sigh.

I used my best efforts to provide dimensioned drawings & photos of the pipe arrangements on the back of my washer, showing them to the plumber and taping them to the wall. Despite this, now I have the machine here it will not fit properly because of crossing spaghetti pipes. I have a 45mm outer diameter drain pipe, a 25mm water supply hose, and of course a rear drum projection beyond the permitted 60mm machine size by another 30mm. A ridiculous 100mm required to fit a washing machine that is supposed to fit when plumbed into 600 by 600. (I have over 80mm behind the machine proper but not 100mm.)

 

While I do the plumbers job for them because they can't do it and draw up a new pipe arrangement so they can change what they have done to something that works, one or two questions.

 

Can the water supply hose fitted to my Siemens washer with an integrated leak detection/stop leak thing fixed into the end of it - be shortened - or must the pipe be used at it's full stupidly long length ?

What are the rules for a washing machine drain upright height and for the length of a washing machine drain hose ? can they be cut down ?

 

Thanks in anticipation.

You are instructing trades to do the opposite of what most do, ergo shit is hitting fans at a rate of knots here.

 

I haven't put a washing machine tap or mains plug behind one for over 20 years. Ditto fridge, ditto freezer, ditto oven, ditto list goes on.

 

You just ask them to migrate these supply's to the nearest adjacent cabinet and then put the hoses / cables to that location.......

 

2 hours ago, Spinny said:

Can the water supply hose fitted to my Siemens washer with an integrated leak detection/stop leak thing fixed into the end of it - be shortened

Why do you think it's so fecking long?!?

[Spinny]

Unfortunately there is a wall on one side of the washer, and the tumble dryer on the other. The tumble dryer only just fits as these heat pump ones are 610 deep and the waste pipe has to run behind it to serve a toilet basin regardless. Having the washer drain hose feed across to the sink unit might be an option but it would need extending. I am looking to be able to pull the machine out in case of maintenance. There is no accessible valve on the water feed to the washer apart from the tap on the end behind the washer.

 

I'll draw a diagram and post it - it's complicated - as they say.

 

One thing made be laugh - I suggested moving the water feed to a different point on the copper pipework to ease routing the basin waste - plumber moved it, but left the feed stub I was trying to do away with and just sealed the end of it. After all why unsolder a T and replace it with a 90 when you can just cap it off. Then added the new feed position using these compression copper fitting things.

Edited 55 minutes ago by Spinny

[torre]

Is that plasterboard dabbed on behind? You could remove it to get yourself another 25mm

[Spinny]

Nope. It is a plastered brick wall.

When it was bare masonry I realised the architect had missed a trick because the outer leaf of the house wall comes inside  at the side of the new window, therefore it would need insulating. So added 20mm XPS backer board in a vertical strip to insulate that area as well as the window reveal. this brought the wall out, but I had it left recessed either side of the insulation at the bottom to make more room behind the washer and sink unit.

As you can see the insulation has been cut into to fit pipes across.

 

The other side of the wall where the wall cupboard is mounted is an understairs loo. So the water feeds run across and through that wall from the utility sink to feed the toilet basin. Likewise the toilet basin waste will come through that wall where the cross is on the wall.

Edited 36 minutes ago by Spinny